How do install this deck hinge?

N

nowakezone

New Member
Jul 2, 2012
311
Naples, Florida
Boat Info
2004 340 Sundancer
Engines
8.1 Horizons
This is a picture of the type of flat deck hinge I need to install in the same location on my boat. It will connect to the end cap on the stanchion for camper canvas exactly as pictured in this exact location. I can't see how this could be too difficult even for a beginner who has never done anything to fiberglass but wash and wax it. It looks like a couple of screws to me, I don't see any sealant or anything.


Later...

I deleted the picture. Why take up bandwidth and server space etc when it's not necessary. I simply searched the world wide web for how to install a bimini top which I figured would include deck hinges. Voila! It appears to be as easy as drilling the pilot holes followed by inserting the screws!

Anyone who wants to chime in with caveats or encouragment please do!
 
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Further reading and video viewing... the consensus seems to be a 1/8-9/64" pilot hole followed by smoothing out the interior of the hole with a phillips head to prevent spider cracks. Mounting screws consistently recommended are 1" #10 sheet metal screws. I'd like to confirm that more, or someone here.
 
Make sure they are stainless screws. If it were me, anything screwed/mounted to fibreglass should be bedded with butyl tape, or equivalent.
 
Molson said:
Make sure they are stainless screws. If it were me, anything screwed/mounted to fiberglass should be bedded with butyl tape, or equivalent.
Click to expand...
I like it! Had no idea what butyl tape was. Now I know and it makes sense. Interesting, the first review on Amazon was a guy saying the same thing as you did. Thanks Molson.
 
nowakezone said:
Further reading and video viewing... the consensus seems to be a 1/8-9/64" pilot hole followed by smoothing out the interior of the hole with a phillips head to prevent spider cracks. Mounting screws consistently recommended are 1" #10 sheet metal screws. I'd like to confirm that more, or someone here.
Click to expand...

When drilling through gel coat, it is helpful to run the drill bit in reverse, at least initially. It's also a good idea to start with a small hole and drill to the desired hole size in increments. If you start in with a big drill bit and running in forward, you can tear/crack out a larger chunk of gel coat than you wanted to, or cause spider cracks too. Not everyone's approach, but one that was shown to me and works well.
 
Once you drill the hole (lets say you need an 1/8 of an inch) i then use a much larger bit like 5/16 in my hand and chamfer the hole until the gelcoat is gone where the threads will dig in - this prevents cracking the gel coat - this would probably not be necessary if throughbolting
 
Guys that's excellent stuff. Thank you! Because these mounts will be at a flex point I want to take precaution to make sure I protect the integrity...and looks...of the gel coat and fiberglass.

Thanks again. :thumbsup:
 
As I continued to research marine butyl tape applications, chamfering, and countersinking I found this excellent thread on another boating website. The first post is the story and the OP very adamantly encourages doing everything all of you have said to do. For any fiberglass newbie this is well worth the read as it is complete with photos and very thorough explanations. Perhaps this should be a sticky.

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/63554-bedding-deck-hardware-butyl-tape.html
 
This might seem like overkill but I drill and tap my holes and use machine screws. No glass cracking and they hold great. I use a little 5200 if I never want to remove it.
 
Drill in increments, chamfer if you would like. Squeeze in some 3M sealant (whatever number you feel comfortable with 5200, 7500...) tighten down the fasteners and wipe off excess sealant immediately.
 
Gosh this is all great stuff. And to think I was going to pay someone to do it. Now if I can extrapolate this skill to putting in rod holders I'll be set!!!!
 
Don't use a larger drill bit for the chamfer as a relief, it will chatter or worse grab and give you either a too big or too deep hole or both. Use a proper countersink. They are not terribly expensive and once you have one, you can use it for other projects.
You don't need to chamfer too deep, just to the same diameter as the OD of the screw threads.
Also, I agree with the advice if you can through bolt it, do it with fender washers(stainless of course) inside.
 
I was thinking the larger drill bit was to smooth out the edges versus countersinking.

In that link I provided I saw that the guy countersunk the hole but was putting a flat mount on it. It appears he countersunk the hole so he could put butyl tape around the screw. Okay I get that I suppose, but if I'm bedding the whole mount on the tape do I need to countersink below it? Or...am I not supposed to bed the whole mount...instead just the area beneath the holes in the mount?
 
The countersink will yield a much smoother hole than a bit and it won't attempt to bury itself in your pilot hole.
 
There are two main reasons for a countersunk hole. One, is to give more area for the sealant. The second is to prevent spider-cracking of the gelcoat. If the threads of the screw come in contact with the gelcoat, there is a good possibility that the gel will crack - not always right away, but possibly down the road. You can use a large drill bit (larger than the threads of the screw) for this, but for the reasons Todd mentioned, do not put it in a drill... do it by hand (spin the bit using your fingers).
 
Ohhh...okay! Got it now. The by hand option was mentioned as an option on the first page. And now it makes much more sense why.

Question...some recommend butyl tape, some recommend 3M...usually I see 5200 as mag' said....is this just preference? In other words, use one or the other but definitely use one?
 
It depends on if you plan to ever remove this acre)s).
Use 5200 if it's permanent and will be exposed to heavy doses of water, 4200 if semi-permanent and silicone if you intend to remove it one day.
Have a look on 3M's site for a more accurate descriptions of each products uses.
 
Nehalennia said:
It depends on if you plan to ever remove this acre)s).
Use 5200 if it's permanent and will be exposed to heavy doses of water, 4200 if semi-permanent and silicone if you intend to remove it one day.
Have a look on 3M's site for a more accurate descriptions of each products uses.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
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