Just Peachy Farms
New Member
- Dec 20, 2017
- 17
- Boat Info
- '87 Sundance 410
- Engines
- Two mercruiser 330 gas bravo II
150
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Do you have power at the element? I'm out of ideas.
View attachment 64377
Do you have power at the element? I'm out of ideas.
Right ..I’m going to buy a clamp meter tomorrow and check for power to the Tstat and element. Thanks againView attachment 64377
Do you have power at the element? I'm out of ideas.
Leave your water pump onNot sure how to do that ... water off? Drain heater? Refill?
Ok will open relief valve... let you know tomorrow... thanks.Leave your water pump on
All faucets closed. No heat needed. Open the relief valve and let the water flow until it stops spitting.
Assuming no hot water with the 110v on.
To be clear, does your engine bypass to the hot water tank too? If so, does your block have antifreeze or raw water? Either way if no heat from running your engine, then that's where there air bubble is. Either pull the hose from the end that goes to the water tank to bleed which is messy. If raw water then run the motor for a moment to flush the air out. Air in a waterline is a bug a boo to burp so enjoy a beer or two while chasing it.
Thanks. I looked water heaters up and 10-11 amps is right on the money.My 11 gallon HWH pulls right at 10amps when turned on. I have a voltmeter and ampmeter like he does.
Bennett
Hey I have a question about the bypass. I know I have a tank problem. Not sure yet if it’s cooked or I will be lucky enough to find a tripped reset. But...I was hoping for some hot water while we were cruising this weekend. Water never warmed up but was flowing good. I tried every location including the transom shower. You think that could still be air?Leave your water pump on
All faucets closed. No heat needed. Open the relief valve and let the water flow until it stops spitting.
Assuming no hot water with the 110v on.
To be clear, does your engine bypass to the hot water tank too? If so, does your block have antifreeze or raw water? Either way if no heat from running your engine, then that's where there air bubble is. Either pull the hose from the end that goes to the water tank to bleed which is messy. If raw water then run the motor for a moment to flush the air out. Air in a waterline is a bug a boo to burp so enjoy a beer or two while chasing it.
Could it be possible that your water lines are hooked up backwards and your pulling water off the bottom of the water heater?Hey I have a question about the bypass. I know I have a tank problem. Not sure yet if it’s cooked or I will be lucky enough to find a tripped reset. But...I was hoping for some hot water while we were cruising this weekend. Water never warmed up but was flowing good. I tried every location including the transom shower. You think that could still be air?
I haven’t changed any piping and had hot water before.Could it be possible that your water lines are hooked up backwards and your pulling water off the bottom of the water heater?
Sounds like the "anti scald valve " is hanging up and mixing to much cold. Do a test and remove it from the loop temporarily and see if you then have good hot water, if so try to service it,(soak in vinegar) or replace it.
Quite possible something is hanging or sticking. During my investigation I cleared some granular mineral deposits from two faucets. Where would I find this anti scald valve. I am familiar with shower faucets that have this feature but I am pretty sure my galley and transom shower wouldn’t. I am going to start looking for another boat in case I can’t figure this out. Bahahaha!
If you still don't have hot water-- buy a new boat.
Just reconfirming you have a hose T from engine to the hot water tank?Hey I have a question about the bypass. I know I have a tank problem. Not sure yet if it’s cooked or I will be lucky enough to find a tripped reset. But...I was hoping for some hot water while we were cruising this weekend. Water never warmed up but was flowing good. I tried every location including the transom shower. You think that could still be air?
I installed an Isotherm Spa model several years ago and it has performed flawlessly. I wanted a stainless tank to avoid the "smells"; the WH location on my boat is very inaccessible and it was not possible to easily reach the WH for flushing. The Spa model trades a poly exterior for the stainless used on the top tier model but still has the same stainless tank. It has a different shape and can be mounted vertically so provides some flexibility. The mixing valve included extends the time hot water is available at the point of use; we've never run out of hot with two or more people taking showers in succession. The Isotherm line was highly rated at the time we bought ours and a quick search just now didn't reveal any big complaints. At the time I bought ours, Defender offered the best price I could find.Finally got into this and water heater must definitely be corroded. Water in the compartment and I think I am getting water in the bilge from it also. I have been doing some reading and it seems as with most stuff today, they don’t make it like they used to. I have read some posts about early failures on the Whale Seawatd heaters. West marine, Atwood and Whale all look the same. Looking into Isotherm. Anyone have experience?
If the size of the new unit does not change and your engine room has good access, it's a remove and replace job. Undo the plumbing, wires and mounting screws and then back again. Issues usually relate to changes in location of fittings. Buy the unit you want to install. Take it out of the box and see if there are any surprises. If you are uncomfortable, hire a mechanic.Is changing out the heater a fairly simple DIY job or one better left to the service dept?