Hoping to help

Discussion in 'Who's Who' started by SR Tech, Apr 16, 2008.

  1. SR Tech

    SR Tech New Member

    181
    Apr 16, 2008
    Upstate, NY
    78 20' Seville
    Ford 351 Winsor
    Swapped TR->GEN 2 transom
    Hello,
    My name is Chris and I have been working for a SR master dealer in NY for about 4 years now and feel I can contribute some knowledge to any questions you may have, and maybe even learn a few things.

    I have yet to own a boat nor see myself purchasing one in the future, mostly because i'm fixing them all week so my weekends are time to get away.
     
  2. boltman

    boltman Active Member GOLD Sponsor

    Dec 28, 2005
    Flint/Swartz Creek MI, Ported in Whitehall/Montagu
    480 Sedan Bridge
    "Sea Ray's Best Boat Ever Made"
    700 hp MANS Diesels Thundering Cathedrals of Torque!!
    So Chriss do you specialize in any certain area of The boat,ie Engine , Drive line, electronics.... What/I'd like to know? i may have questions in the future..
     
  3. Four Suns

    Four Suns Head Pot Stirrer TECHNICAL Contributor

    Oct 4, 2006
    Williamsburg, VA
    2003 480 DB
    Zodiac ProJet Dinghy
    Yamaha 110vx WaveRunner
    QSM-11 Diesels
    Why does dental floss get stuck in duck bill valves?
     
  4. chuck1

    chuck1 Super Moderator TECHNICAL Contributor PLATINUM Sponsor

    Oct 3, 2006
    North GA Mountains
    Looking For Next One
    Looking For Next One
    Play nice now Gary, he has not done any wrong yet.

    Because you should have not put it in the system to start with. (Grin)
     
  5. rondds

    rondds Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Oct 3, 2006
    Jersey Shore
    2001 380DA
    Merc 8.1s (2008)...Hurth ZF 63 V-drives...WB 7.0 BCGD (2013), Garmin 8208 & 740 MFDs, GMR 24xHD dome
    'Cause someone threw it down the MSD.
    i'm not qualified to answer this question


    Welcome Chris, and thanks for offering your knowledge and expertise.
     
  6. Skip

    Skip Active Member

    Oct 5, 2006
    Potomac River/Chesapeake Bay
    07 52 DB
    Truly Blessed III
    R6800 CRM MANs
    Thundering Towers of Teutonic Torque
    2010 Nautica 12' RIB,
    MAN R6800 CRMs
    Chris, welcome.


    regards
    Skip
     
  7. First Born

    First Born Super Moderator PLATINUM Sponsor

    Oct 3, 2006
    Charlotte, N.C.
    2006 185 Sport
    4.3 L 190 HP
    Welcome to the board
     
  8. Morpheus

    Morpheus New Member

    May 7, 2007
    Odessa, FL
    2006 SeaRay Sundeck 240
    5.0MPI Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
    Yes Welcome, I could spend the whole day asking you questions about my 06 240 Sundeck.
     
  9. Bridog

    Bridog Active Member GOLD Sponsor

    Oct 4, 2006
    Gulf Shores AL / Brick NJ
    Previous 220SD, 260DA, 300DA
    Mercury 150 4S OB
    Glad to see you here Chris. Thanks for offering your help. Brian
     
  10. SR Tech

    SR Tech New Member

    181
    Apr 16, 2008
    Upstate, NY
    78 20' Seville
    Ford 351 Winsor
    Swapped TR->GEN 2 transom
    I do it all
    -Fiberglass/gelcoat repair and finish
    -Merc Motors and Stern and V-drives
    -Raymarine+Garmin GPS installations
    -12v/120v systems
    -Water systems

    I've pretty much worked on every aspect of a
    Sea Ray/ Mercruiser motor/drive.

    Volvos I see very far and few, and have very little knowledge about their sterndrives. Obviously GM makes the engines for both volvo and merc so those are easy.

    Please feel free to post or message me any problems you may be having, as my dealership charges $90/hr labor and i'm sure where you guys are it isn't much cheaper.:grin:
     
  11. Brian 59

    Brian 59 Member GOLD Sponsor

    451
    Oct 5, 2006
    Lockport New York
    280 Sundancer 2004
    4.3 MPI w/ alpha drives
    Hi Chris, welcome aboard, thanks for offering to help with questions and problems. I still think my boat is new, and I am starting my 5th season with her. I am sure I will need advice from all.
     
  12. Nehalennia

    Nehalennia Well-Known Member

    Aug 22, 2007
    Marysville, WA
    2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
    Twin 350 MAG V-drives
    Welcome Chris......
     
  13. Morpheus

    Morpheus New Member

    May 7, 2007
    Odessa, FL
    2006 SeaRay Sundeck 240
    5.0MPI Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
    Ok I'll go first only a few questions.

    I have an 2006 Searay Sundeck 240 with 5.0L MPI engine.

    1. IS there anyway to remove some panel/part to get better access to the engine or even the transom wall, how do they get the engine out seems there would be no way to do it without removing something.

    2. I'm looking to improve and ease the way I flush the engine/outdrive while the boat is in a lift or in the water. I'm been looking at installing 3 valves with a hose connection in the water pickup line from the outdrive before the sea water pump. What are your thoughts on this, my idea is to be able to open the valves one way to push water out the outdrive and the other way to run water through everything else with the engine on.

    3. (This ties into why I want to know about #1) I'm installing a subwoofer in the boat and will need to run power and ground from the batteries. It looks like I should run them around the back of the boat on the transom with everything else. The wires need to run from the batteries to the helm storage compartment where the radio is. Is there an easier/better to run these two wires?

    4. I know I need to keep my gear oil full and am suppose to use the premimum but also I've read you shouldn't mix the regular and the premium so how do you know which one you have, can you just go by the color?

    That's it (for now :grin:) Thanks in advance for your responses.
     
  14. rondds

    rondds Well-Known Member SILVER Sponsor

    Oct 3, 2006
    Jersey Shore
    2001 380DA
    Merc 8.1s (2008)...Hurth ZF 63 V-drives...WB 7.0 BCGD (2013), Garmin 8208 & 740 MFDs, GMR 24xHD dome
  15. SR Tech

    SR Tech New Member

    181
    Apr 16, 2008
    Upstate, NY
    78 20' Seville
    Ford 351 Winsor
    Swapped TR->GEN 2 transom
    Morpheus,

    1. If I remember correctly the seat box that the hatch sits on does come out, after taking out screws and cutting and fighting the 5200 sealer which is practically cement, you will tear a bit gelcoat off in this removal luckily its not notcieable after you put it back on.

    2. Your kinda lost me on this one, especially the part about flushing your outdrive in the water. Are you bascially looking for an easy way to drain the water out of your motor? or are you trying to tie in a water system? elaborate a bit more please.

    3. Do you have an Amplifier? Your sub should run to it not the battery, they are normally mounted somewhere under the port dash on Bow Riders, or in the compartment infront of the captians seat on most deck and DA's. I'll have to take a look at one tomorrow and give you the best route I can find from the transom up.

    4. Glad you asked, "Premuim" is actually the older style gear lube it has a gold tint and is very tacky, used in older Alpha R/MR/TR/TRS. "High Performance G+" is the new style lube and is a sythentic blend it is a blue/green. You can put G+ in older drives that use premuim, you CANNOT put premium in drive that requires G+

    Hoped that Helped
     
  16. Morpheus

    Morpheus New Member

    May 7, 2007
    Odessa, FL
    2006 SeaRay Sundeck 240
    5.0MPI Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
    Yea I actually saw that came out via the screws but didn't think about the 5200 sealer that's good to know if I ever take that off to work on the engine.

    I was actually looking for an easy way to get to the transom wall where allt he wiring is attached. I'm 6'1" 280# I'm not gonna sqeeze in there and get stuck.

    Sorry that is my fault for not being clear. Right now I can only flush the engine with the muff's on the out drive. When the boat is in the lift I use at the inlaws or in the water I can not reach the outdrive to put the muffs on to flush the engine. What I wanted to do is install 3 brass valves before the sea water pump that will let me close off the out drive water pickup and open a water hose connected from the house and open the side to the sea water pump and flush the engine as if it were sucking the water from the pickups. Then after that close off the engine side and open the outdrive side so that the pressure from the house pushes fresh water out the outdrive water pickups. Obviously if its in the water this is pointless but on a lift I seems to be a good idea. A few people on here thing that it's not really necessary to flush the ourdrive as well but it seems like it's best to get as much salt water out as possible. I will probably also use some kind of product like saltaway as well when doing this flushing.

    Again my fault. Yes there is an amp and I planed to put the amp and sub in the storage in the helm like you mentioned as the HEAD is on the port side, so I need to run the power and ground from the batteries to the helm storage for the amp and was looking for the best route for that. It seems I should attach to the transom wall and go around the whole boat like the other wiring but if there is an eaiser shorter way that would be helpful since I can not reach the transom wall.

    I actually ment high performance and not premium had a brain fart. So basically I probably already have high performance in the boat (it's not near by where I can just go look) and should continue to use high performance.

    Thanks a great deal for your help.
     
  17. SR Tech

    SR Tech New Member

    181
    Apr 16, 2008
    Upstate, NY
    78 20' Seville
    Ford 351 Winsor
    Swapped TR->GEN 2 transom
    1. Yes that is the only way to get the motor out as well and its still a tight fit.

    2. Ahh, I now see what you are saying. My bad, I only deal with fresh water boats so that one flew right over my head. As far as flushing the motor I would just hook up the muffs to the drive with a fresh water hose hooked up and run it and drain it. I don't know if you've looked at the pick-up hose from the drive or not but the hose they use is HIGHLY re-enforced and very stiff. I think you would find it kinda hard to hook up your valve system without having a leak. But your theory sound fine.

    3. Much easier way- Get your power and ground off a distribution block under the dash, that way you don't even have to go near that transom wall and you'll save some wire depending on where you want to mount the sub.

    4. Yes you have G+ and you only want G+
     
  18. Morpheus

    Morpheus New Member

    May 7, 2007
    Odessa, FL
    2006 SeaRay Sundeck 240
    5.0MPI Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
    Yuck! Thanks :grin:

    I figured that hose was pretty thick, but when the boat is on the lift or in the water I can not reach the outdrive to put the muffs on so that was why I was trying to come up with a better/easier way.

    I do not believe there is enough amps going to that panel, I'm aware of it as that is how I installed my GPS. I was looking at running 4awg wire with a 50-100 amp breaker on it from the batteries to the amp, I'd rather not draw that kind of power on the line that is already there feeding everything else seems like if something bad could happen that is where it would happen.

    Thanks for your help
     
  19. SR Tech

    SR Tech New Member

    181
    Apr 16, 2008
    Upstate, NY
    78 20' Seville
    Ford 351 Winsor
    Swapped TR->GEN 2 transom
    Well if you wanted to install the vavles, that system would work. I think it would be more of a PITA to use that then just hooking up muffs, i'm suprised you can't reach the outdrive in the lift, guess the lifts down on the oceans are much bigger than the one I operate.

    It really depends on what size amp and sub you are running, if you only have a 500W amp and even a 12" sub, you could easily tie off of that block without any noticeable power loss.

    The 240 deck I just looked at has a 6ga wire running to that block, yours maybe different. Also depends on how many speakers you have and if you are planning on running them to the amp aswell.

    If you are looking for big power i'd look at investing in a capacitor and then put your inline fuse before that . Mount it all in that compartment.

    Your Gps doesn't draw that much, not even 5A.

    Either that or you have to run those wires through that chase along the strb side, no easier way to do it, a study snake would probably help you greatly. But getting them ziptied to the wall would probably be a bit hard.

    -Chris
     
  20. Morpheus

    Morpheus New Member

    May 7, 2007
    Odessa, FL
    2006 SeaRay Sundeck 240
    5.0MPI Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
    Again thanks for the help I think that about does it. Still not 100% comfortable justting the power from the power distribution block (I'm assuming your talking about the one with the fuses on it that I attached the gps to and put a fuse in. So we will have to see if I can find someone small to squeeze into my bildge.

    As for the flusing I've tried reaching it from the swim platform by laying down and raching underneath but I just about fell in doing that and there is no way to reach it from the dock, I thought about putting a ladder in the water just seemed like it was easier if I installed a hose connection to the outside of the boat, got in opened the hatch flipped some valves and a flushing I would go.

    It's nice to have you on the board :thumbsup:
     

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