Help..Windshield Power Vent won't close on my 320

barryg

barryg

Member
Jun 24, 2007
966
Fort Lauderdale
Boat Info
2005 320 Sundancer, Garmin 5208
Engines
Twin V-Drives 350 Mags
Went out this weekend, and opened the Windshield Vent as usual..When I came back and pressed in the switch pad to close it, nothing...pressed open and closed and no motor noise at all..Had batteries on and even engines on and still nothing. Can't put the cockpit cover back on till I can close this..

Any suggestions? I know there is a bank of fuses called the "EIM" or Electronic Interface Module at the helm under the steering wheel and one is marked vent, but each fuse is protected with a clear rubber tube. Never had to change one and not sure if these are removable and how.

Thanks,

Barry
 
Barry,
I have not had this particular issue on my 420, so this is purely speculation-for what it is worth. I think the lift mechanism is a 12V linear actuator, similar, but obviously much smaller, than those that raise and lower the ER hatch on my 420DA. I had to replace both of them this year. Assuming that your windshield hatch actuator is getting power, the next culprit may be the motor has failed. You ought to be able to remove the plastic cover on the actuator and confirm that you have power to the motor. If the answer is yes, I am betting on the motor.
At fwebster's suggestion I now lubricate the lifting rams on both the ER and windshield linear actuators with WD 40...and now $800 dollars poorer, I pay careful attention to the grease fittings on my shiny new ER hatch actuators. I hope to never have to replace the actuators again....and I had zero luck trying to get the actuators rebuilt, or to find them on the used market-at flounder pounder and other outlets. Regret I can't be of more help.

regards
Skip
 
I had the actuator go out on my 1998 290. I took it off and brushed off some crud and reconnected it and it has been working fine for the past 3 years. You might try that first since the replacement option sounds expensive.
 
I had a similar issue on my 300. What happened with mine is I opened it up too far, and essentially locked it out. I would hit the switch and get nothing. No sound, no movement. I had the admiral gently press on it while I worked the switch, and it worked again. Since then, i make sure I pay attention as to how far I open it. Good luck!
 
Thanks..I read the thread, sprayed some lubricant and also tried moving it while someone hit the button, but nothing, no movement, no sound. Tomorrow I will remove the plastic cover and see what else there is for me to do, but still not sure about the fuse.. Is that a possibility and if so, how do you remove them?

Any other ideas?

Barry
 
The owners manual of my 420DA has pull out sheets that feature the entire electrical schematic for the boat. For folks accustomed to reading these, like CJ, it was relatively easy to find a relay for my hatch lift. Same probably holds for any fuse associated with the linear actuator on the windshield. 1 800 SRBoats might be useful as well.

Skip
 
Thanks Skip..I stopped at MM and spoke with someone in the service department there, but what he told me didn't make any sense with my boat..said there was a screw at the end of the actuator arm that I could unscrew and push the glass back closed. I looked at the end attached to the window and there is no screw....Unless I can get the actuator arm down, there is no way to close it. I tried the sea ray # you posted but they are not the service department, more sales & brochures, but they were very nice and gave me the direct # to Sea Ray tech support 800-648-2821 (for your records) but they are closed till tomorrow morn, so I will give them a try and see what they say..

Thanks for your help, and I'll keep you posted..

Barry
 
If you have to replace that actuator, just be prepared for sticker shock. I went straight to the manufacturer and they were 10% less than my SR dealer's parts counter price for the ER hatch lifts-but once I paid shipping from the manufacturer's facility in Michigan, it was a break even to suck it up and buy the parts from Sea Ray. I think fwebster mentioned to me during my time in linear actuator purgatory that the windshield versions were in the $250 range...not sure for which boat.
Sadly, this is chump change compared to filling the tanks. I watched a 283 gallon gasoline fill up on Saturday that came close to $1200.
Oh well.

good luck with it

regards
Skip
 
One for a neighbor's 460DA was $385 (he's still complaining and has yet to grasp the meaning of "preventitive maintenance and oil can")...............don't know about a smaller one for a 320.
 
Boy talk about depressing...Still can't figure out the problem, but will look to see if the wiring is corroded tomorrow. I've got a trip to Bimini in a few weeks and just filling back up for that will be around $500.00, so to have to spend another $250 -350 for this actuator would definitely hurt even more. I'd be happy just to get the darn thing closed for now...

Barry
 
Barry,
My actuator just stopped like yours. I took it off, cleaned the ram, lubed it, and hand turned the ram like I was screwing it back in. That worker for me. While unmounted, I powered it out and back several times. It felt like something was inside the was turning like a worm gear. It also felt like something inside disengaged from the ram (part the sticks out) when fully extended. I just don't open it until it stops any more.
 
I just had the same thing happen on my '04 390. We checked the power to switch and to actuator. All was good, tried cleaning up existing, therfore, the actuator was shot. New one cost $385 though Sea Ray dealer. You can put it on yourself. The new one worked perfectly.
 
disconnect the actuator from the glass hatch, spin the arm all the way out ,spray it, wipe off any gunk,spray again , spin it back in and spray it again. Now have the mrs hit the switch. if it works do this every couple of months especially if salt water gets on it, I use "zep" preserve instead of the other. If not, I was qouted 700 bucks at mm
good luck
 
Skip said:
Barry,
I have not had this particular issue on my 420, so this is purely speculation-for what it is worth. I think the lift mechanism is a 12V linear actuator, similar, but obviously much smaller, than those that raise and lower the ER hatch on my 420DA. I had to replace both of them this year. Assuming that your windshield hatch actuator is getting power, the next culprit may be the motor has failed. You ought to be able to remove the plastic cover on the actuator and confirm that you have power to the motor. If the answer is yes, I am betting on the motor.
At fwebster's suggestion I now lubricate the lifting rams on both the ER and windshield linear actuators with WD 40...and now $800 dollars poorer, I pay careful attention to the grease fittings on my shiny new ER hatch actuators. I hope to never have to replace the actuators again....and I had zero luck trying to get the actuators rebuilt, or to find them on the used market-at flounder pounder and other outlets. Regret I can't be of more help.

regards
Skip
Click to expand...

Getting slightly off subject, Skip, what grease / lubricant do you use to lubricate the ER lift Ram. I've seen the Zerk fitting... :huh: Thanks!
 
BarryG, what was the verdict? My vent window is currently stuck in the closed position which is preferable to the open position, but still a nuisance when you are closed up with the canvas and would like a little fresh air. My window stopped working in the same manner as you described.
Did you have to replace the actuator?
 
Several years ago my ER hatch motor didn't have enough power to lift well.

The motor was replaced and the mechanism, including the gear train, was cleaned and lubed using white lithium grease.

The mechanism has been maintained every coupla years by dissassembly, cleaning and lubing. It works much better now.

It sounds like a no-connect on your problem. I'd start w/ the crimp connectors and the motor brushes.
 
I'm definitely with Frank on the preventative maintenance issue. I have been thinking about using a mountain bike fork shock boot cover. I have been mountain biking for several years now and sand, muck and water will get into the front shocks. There is a company, Lizard Skins, who make a neoprene cover for the shock that keeps the bad stuff out. I'm going to try it on my actuator to see how it works. Here is a link to what I'm talking about.

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/11...5-Bike-Protection/Lizard-Skins-Fork-Boots.htm

Let me know what you think!!
 
Digging up an old thread, b/c mine just stopped working (good thing in closed position).
Barry what was the resolution for you, new actuator motor or did the cleaning work for you?
 
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