HELP! 44DA Engine Hatch Won't Open

RanAmok

RanAmok

Member
Jul 7, 2009
66
Stafford, VA
Boat Info
2007 44 Sundancer
Dual - Raymarine E120's
Onan 9Kw Diesel generator
Engines
Dual - Cummins 8.3 500 QSC Diesel engines
I am unable to open the hatch on my 2007 44DA. The hatched worked fine the previous week and when I returned, it did not. I have performed the following:
  1. Verified the power to the helm (all of the other switches work)
  2. Opened the transom hatch AND bypassed the hatch safety (magnet)
  3. Replaced the Hatch Lift breaker under the helm
  4. Replaced the Hatch Relay breaker (not in the manuals)
  5. Replaced the Relay (not in the manuals)
  6. Replaced the Switch (even though I verified power to the input and output terminals)
  7. I have opened the ports which provide access the pins and noted the actuators are not making any sounds (and are not blocked).
Short of pulling the pins and getting a forklift, what else have others tried?

Thank you in advance.
 
It sounds like you've already verified everything above the deck, so unfortunately I think you're gonna have to pull the pins and raise the hatch manually so you can get at the wiring for the actuators and start tracing it back from there.
 
Just curious...

Batteries on?
Batteries charged?
Can you run on shore power with charger on and test?
 
Don’t forget there are zerk grease fittings on the hatch rams once you get the hatch opened manually. Make sure you pump in grease.
 
That sounds like a nightmare. I just thought if it over the weekend. Even though you can pull the pin...how the HELL do you lift it??? Nothing to even grab. Probably need a skinny, strong hook to get it above the sorroundong deck. Your boat I believe the whole transom lifts with the floor?
 
Couple of options.Once you do manage to get it raised, run a new feed directly from the motors to a convenient spot above deck for battery access.
Once opened, install a lifting recessed eye in the hatch to hook a hoist system to, can be installed a with a deck plate
 
Have you bypassed the relay? Connecting the two wires directly will remove both the relay and the magnet reed switch from the equation. Be sure your read access door is CLOSED obviously.
 
gerryb said:
Have you bypassed the relay? Connecting the two wires directly will remove both the relay and the magnet reed switch from the equation. Be sure your read access door is CLOSED obviously.
Click to expand...
gerryb, I may try that next... We did note the relay (both old and new) is slightly warm to the touch. We expected it to be cold...
When you say "connect the two wires" (given there are four) are you referring to 86 & 87? They are the Terminal from switch and Terminal from power source.
Please advise and thank you.
 
Skuza said:
That sounds like a nightmare. I just thought if it over the weekend. Even though you can pull the pin...how the HELL do you lift it??? Nothing to even grab. Probably need a skinny, strong hook to get it above the sorroundong deck. Your boat I believe the whole transom lifts with the floor?
Click to expand...
Yes, the transom is the rotation point. There are no grab or lift points for the deck...
 
although not pleasant, it is possible to remove the small hatch over the generator and slither down into the engine room. at least then, you can push it up (with some help pulling of course). you could also remove the table mount and get a strap in there to pull it up.
 
importmonkey said:
although not pleasant, it is possible to remove the small hatch over the generator and slither down into the engine room. at least then, you can push it up (with some help pulling of course). you could also remove the table mount and get a strap in there to pull it up.
Click to expand...
LOL, I'm not that small... :)
 
When I had the same problem with a 420, I found when the transom door was open the relay under the helm was warm to the touch.

I put a small port a power on the port engine from the small hatch over the generator and took some weight off and the rams started to work. We had to lift by hand along with the old rams to get it up enough to work on. That hatch is too heavy to open without some kind of a jack to lift it the first few inches. Before going too far I would suggest pulling the connector on the port ram and checking for voltage. It is tough but if you have a tall lean friend he should be able to reach it from the small hatch. As a last resort you can pull the long port exhaust hose and get right into the engine room.

I saw in earlier posts about after market rams. I went that route and they did not work and I wound up buying from Sea Ray anyway. Not cheap .

Good luck
 
Contact Acculift, they were the original supplier for my lifts. Give them the numbers off your lift motor and they can supply a new one for a lot less than SeaRay.
 
becnme said:
When I had the same problem with a 420, I found when the transom door was open the relay under the helm was warm to the touch.

I put a small port a power on the port engine from the small hatch over the generator and took some weight off and the rams started to work. We had to lift by hand along with the old rams to get it up enough to work on. That hatch is too heavy to open without some kind of a jack to lift it the first few inches. Before going too far I would suggest pulling the connector on the port ram and checking for voltage. It is tough but if you have a tall lean friend he should be able to reach it from the small hatch. As a last resort you can pull the long port exhaust hose and get right into the engine room.

I saw in earlier posts about after market rams. I went that route and they did not work and I wound up buying from Sea Ray anyway. Not cheap .

Good luck
Click to expand...
Sorry, what is a “port a power”?
Thanks
 
that is my worst nitemare. I put down a teak floor and covered the access hatch. That said I had an actuator failure is no joke.. good luck

Rob
 
RanAmok said:
gerryb, I may try that next... We did note the relay (both old and new) is slightly warm to the touch. We expected it to be cold...
When you say "connect the two wires" (given there are four) are you referring to 86 & 87? They are the Terminal from switch and Terminal from power source.
Please advise and thank you.
Click to expand...

I don't have a picture of the relay handy but they all work about the same way. You can use a meter to test it without disconnecting anything. YouTube has videos on this. The weak links in this system seem to be the magnetic reed switch, the relay and the motors themselves. In my case the reed switch went bad. Hours of troubleshooting for a $2 part. You said you bypassed the reed switch already? Meaning you pulled out the sensor, cut the wires, and spliced them together? This will take the switch mechanism out of the circuit but I would confirm continuity at the relay switch to make sure. Bypassing the switch (connecting the wires leading to the switch) will activate the relay switch. You will actually hear a click in the switch meaning that the two other terminals are now connected and the control switch will therefore energize the motors. Then check the switch itself on the helm. Continuity tester or 12 test lamp can be used to make sure the switch is working. Then I believe the circuit goes to a pop-out amperage breaker and the last stop are the motors themselves which you can usually hear running or trying to run if they are powered-up.
 
I had this happen on my 370. I found the wire at the male/female connector right at the actuator had either pulled loose or fatigued. I stripped the wire and replaced the connector set and was back in business. I had my wife squeeze in to do the troubleshooting, then we pulled the pin and were able to open the hatch enough for me to get down to do the repair once we knew the problem. I was telling her to pull apart the connect to do a voltage test when she discovered that the wire was not attached to the connector...
 
gerryb said:
I don't have a picture of the relay handy but they all work about the same way. You can use a meter to test it without disconnecting anything. YouTube has videos on this. The weak links in this system seem to be the magnetic reed switch, the relay and the motors themselves. In my case the reed switch went bad. Hours of troubleshooting for a $2 part. You said you bypassed the reed switch already? Meaning you pulled out the sensor, cut the wires, and spliced them together? This will take the switch mechanism out of the circuit but I would confirm continuity at the relay switch to make sure. Bypassing the switch (connecting the wires leading to the switch) will activate the relay switch. You will actually hear a click in the switch meaning that the two other terminals are now connected and the control switch will therefore energize the motors. Then check the switch itself on the helm. Continuity tester or 12 test lamp can be used to make sure the switch is working. Then I believe the circuit goes to a pop-out amperage breaker and the last stop are the motors themselves which you can usually hear running or trying to run if they are powered-up.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Yes, I bypassed the reed switch and hear the relay click. I did a voltage check on the relay and it was good. As you saw in my original post, I replaced the two pop-out breakers just in case, as well as the helm switch and the relay...
At this point, it seems my only option is the manual hatch lift. Bummer.
 
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