Heads Up--Mercruiser Fuel Cooler Corrosion Issues

What is the updated part constructed from? Also, does it bolt up to the same bracketry, and use the same hoses?
 
What is the updated part constructed from? Also, does it bolt up to the same bracketry, and use the same hoses?
Yes - the only real differences are the cooling holes are tapped for pipe thread and there is a drain in the front - it is still made of aluminum, has no zinc, and bolts up the same way and uses all of the original components. I just did this job - the housings only are $450 each - you do not need the "hose kit" they try to sell you, I just cracked the cheap, brittle, fittings out of the existing hoses and attachet them to the new barbed fittings with real hose clamps. As an aside, one of my housings had just corroded through and there was a pinhole allowing seawater into my fuel! The "paint" inside my fuel pump cover had also started flaking off and blocking the regulator, and lastly the E-10 caused the low pressure pump seal (to the cover) to collapse. All of this started as I was investigating why I had a "rich" condition in one of my motors (ultimately caused by the high fuel press from the blocked regulator) Oh well, its all fixed/upgraded now after I B.O.A.T.(Broke Out Another Thousand)
 
What is the drain hole in the front for?

It can't be draining sea water constantly...

If the housing is still uncoated aluminum, I don't see where any improvement has occurred.
 
Instead of going your route (new fittings only) they decided it would be better to tap the housing and use an NPT hose bung - as far as the drain is concerned its for winterization/storage - it has one of those blue "wingnut" plugs in it - you are right - its not an upgrade - I saw your fittings on e-bay before you chimed in here and think its a great product, my coolers were already corroded beyond use though and the original style (non-threaded) housings are no longer available
 

That is interesting, the drain, I mean.

I suppose you could open that while flushing the motor torun fresh water through it.

Just what I need... something else to do!

My boat is already too packed in the bilge for it to evenbe feasible to flush the motors regularly. The 310 with two V-8 inboards is packed like a passenger car enginecompartment.

There is no way to stand in the bilge. You have to hang upside down, lay on top ofthe generator and reach under the transom to get to the seacocks. I am healthy, agile, 5' 9" and fit, andit's a ***** for me. I can't imagine afat bubba trying to get to the seacocks after 12 beers. You'd find him dead upside down in the bilge!

I've already decided the next boat I own I will be ableto walk between the engines or forget it! Right now, I can't pass my LEG between my two exhaust risers!!!

If someone had a bad one they pulled out, I would like toget it to see about reverse engineering it, hard coating it, and making it lastmore than two years.
 
Hi Guys, its been interesting reading all the forums about Mercruiser and their Gen III fuel cooler. I have the high fuel pressure problem with the Gen 3 fuel cooler on my Mercruiser 2005 5.0L MPI bravo3, some 85-90psi at the rail, I am waiting for the fuel regulator which is in the process of being shipped from the USA now, apparently they do not exist over here in the UK.

The so called highly trained Mercruiser mechanics over here do not seem to have heard of this problem but hey when you go on line its all there loads of info in various forums. After 5 visits consisting of 12 hours Changing the small muffler filter (no different) then the IAC Valve (£190, still no different so put old one back) then the plugs and leads (oh yes - no different) now agreeing with me that it is running rich very rich loads of carbon out the back in the exhaust the new plugs they fitted carboned up in the first 5minute run. they then fitter an old regulator valve (same old - no different of course it could have been faulty) he then piggy backed another Gen3 cooler and apparently it worked but they never tried using the regulator valve from that unit.
They have now told me that I need a new cooler £800-1000, cant see it my self and I have no leaks at present, I find it hard to believe that the pumps are faulty when you are getting over pressure if they fault you normally get under or no pressure. I think it is this valve which I cant obtain in the UK. I was also thinking of getting a new cover and if necessary a new block, but I will get it from the states and ship it.

Sorry about the sarcasm just a bit frustrated, especially when you think you are paying for professionals to sort your problems and they seem clueless so much for Mercruiser training.

Chillaxin, You mentioned you had produced some stainless hose to block termination do you have a pair left? if so how can i purchase a pair from you?
 
Chillaxin, You mentioned you had produced some stainless hose to block termination do you have a pair left? if so how can i purchase a pair from you?

This thread is over a year old and Chillaxin has not been on site since may of 2011 so I doubt he will answer.
 
Just launched and was nosing around the ER looking for trouble and found it. Crappy plastic fitting (the lower one) is dripping seawater into the bilge. I have CF3 and I guess it's time to replace the whole thing. I was wondering if anyone had thought of drilling out the plastic fittings and tapping the old unit. I don't think it's a great idea since there's still the issue of flaking paint but it seems that's what Merc did.

Here's mine. Note the bit of salty residue (?) on the lower fitting. Might have been leaking very slightly for a while.

DSCN1935_zpsa167bf49.jpg
 
I use the new and improved GEN V fuel cooing device ,works like a charm ,allows the electric fuel pump to be relocated to more serviceable area. much cheaper too.
HEXMER9TRACOOL_zps612c7cf5.jpg
 
So you changed the fuel pump as well?

Did you also mount a remote fuel filter. Remember, this precious little gem has 4 functions - cool the fuel, filter it, provide a low pressure pump (I guess to get fuel in from the tank) and a high pressure pump (to get fuel to the injectors).
 
Just launched and was nosing around the ER looking for trouble and found it. Crappy plastic fitting (the lower one) is dripping seawater into the bilge. I have CF3 and I guess it's time to replace the whole thing. I was wondering if anyone had thought of drilling out the plastic fittings and tapping the old unit. I don't think it's a great idea since there's still the issue of flaking paint but it seems that's what Merc did.

Here's mine. Note the bit of salty residue (?) on the lower fitting. Might have been leaking very slightly for a while.

DSCN1935_zpsa167bf49.jpg

Hi.. i did exactly what you said... 1/2 NPTT tap.... and some 1/2 NPTT nylon fittings... save ya self $300 buying the new housing... the key is to get it before it gets too bad..
 

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