Hatch nut stripped – looking for recommendations?

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Well-Known Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Oct 3, 2006
4,404
Wisconsin - Winnebago Pool chain of lakes
Boat Info
280 Sundancer, Westerbeke MPV generator
Engines
twin 5.0's w/BIII drives
Above the V-birth is a hatch. This hatch as two screws, one on each side. You open the hatch the desired amount then turn a small black handle to tighten. This handle is attached to a screw.

This screw turns into a threaded nut part that is attached to the two rods that hold up the hatch.

One of the female threaded parts on our hatch has stripped out.

I’m trying to see if this female part is a part I can replaced.

Some of the parts of the hatch have the word “Taylor” on them so I assume Taylor makes this entire assembly.

Does anyone know if this is a replaceable part and if so, where do I get it?
 
Is it the female threads of the stantion bases?
It's not the screw with the black(impeller) looking knobs on it?

I believe you're right that Taylor makes then entire hatch.
Taylor hatches
 
You mean people actually open those things?
 
I use mine all the time too. Taylor is the manufacture, and most of the parts are available but they are crazy expensive. The thumb screws are stainless steel and the threaded holes are cast steel or pot metal or some crap and they have a tendancy to sieze up in the marine environment. I remove all the thumb screws each fall and store them separately. I also keep them coated with some marine anti sieze.
 
Early this morning, I was looking at those things. I didn't want to wake my wife yet, and it was a bit early to take the PWC out. Looks like you can disassemble them, drill out the stripped hole and either
  • retap it to take a larger screw
  • Insert a TimeSert, which is way better.

A friend introduced me to the TimeSerts. Porsche recommends them for repairing all kinds of stripped threads, even in the engine blocks. That's good enough for me. Those guys over-engineer everything. I was looking though the service manual for the 2009 Carrera. Crazy over-engineered.

Best regards,
Frank

P.S.

I recommend leaving hatches and ports closed, and running the A/C. No leaks and nothing breaks.

P.P.S

If you're still using helicoils, you're nuts! After playing with TimeSerts, Helicoils are like working with bear skins and stone knives.
-fc3
 
Last edited:
Doug,

I just bought two for our boat from the local SR dealer. They are about $ 70 each. It is definitely a dis-similar metal issue between the SS knob bolt and the material used for the base. I coated the replacements with never-seize (you can get it from atuo parts stores like NAPA).

The only issue I ran into is that you have to drill out the pop rivet that holds the arm to the hatch frame. Which a) makes a mess (take the time and move the cushions on the Vee berth) and b) since you have to go back with a sheet metal screw, be careful to only drill the head off and not into the frame itself, or you risk making a hole that requires more than just a sheet metal screw to re-attach the arm.

Henry
 
I just got off the phone with Taylor customer service (518-773-0636) and they tell me with the knob that looks like impeller on the end (called a Psychoknob) removed I can get the positive lock and threaded collar out with out drilling out the rivet. Later today I’ll go to the boat and try this.

Taylor hatch parts link http://www.taylormarine.com/hardware/1212hatcharm.html

The threaded collar is less then $3. They are sending me one via the mail and they did not even take my credit card information. The customer service rep said they include a little envelope to send them payment.

Wow, less then $3! I’m happy about this and hope it works as they say.

Thank you everyone!
 
I just got off the phone with Taylor customer service (518-773-0636) and they tell me with the knob that looks like impeller on the end (called a Psychoknob) removed I can get the positive lock and threaded collar out with out drilling out the rivet. Later today I’ll go to the boat and try this.

Taylor hatch parts link http://www.taylormarine.com/hardware/1212hatcharm.html

The threaded collar is less then $3. They are sending me one via the mail and they did not even take my credit card information. The customer service rep said they include a little envelope to send them payment.

Wow, less then $3! I’m happy about this and hope it works as they say.

Thank you everyone!

Doug,

I'm looking at one of the arms I took off the boat. What is the trick to removing the positive lock? The graphic link appears to be wrong in the sense that it does not show how they are assembled. The stainless rod (tube goes through the threaded insert. Do you drill out the rivet on stopper block at the end of the tube?

Henry
 
Of course, you could have Turtle Tone use his magic mending stuff on it. That is, if you don't mind him hanging around in your cabin until his hand 'sweats off' the magic mending stuff.
 
I wish that stuff would work in this situation. I have the same issue with the stripped sleeve. I still haven't figured out how to take it apart to fix it. I've been looking at replacement arms which looks equally difficult to replace.
 
I've done the hatch arm replacement. The arm is mounted to the glass through the locking handles. Remove the phillips head screw in the center and the handle comes off. Note the orientation of the inner part of the handle. The arm is now free at the glass.

To remove the arm from the hatch frame, move the cushions from the vee berth out of the way and put down drop cloth (you don't want to be sleeping on metal drill cuttings). Drill out the pop rivet using a drill bit only large enough to take the head of the rivet off. The arm should now come free. Use a drift pin and carefully knock the rivet stem back into the frame. You should now be able to attach the new arm in the frame using a sheet metal screw. The rivets are supposed to be 3/16", so as long as you haven't over drilled the hatch frame a # 10 should work.

The screws also need to be short about 1/2" or the screw will bottom on the fiberglass from the cabin top. Do not drill into the fiberglass, or you will not be able to remove the hatch without remembering to back the screw out of the fiberglass.

Doug was told that the threaded piece can be installed without removing the arm. I don't see how, but certainly hope someone can show me as these buggers are poorly designed and expensive.

Henry

Henry
 
Doug,

I'm looking at one of the arms I took off the boat. What is the trick to removing the positive lock? The graphic link appears to be wrong in the sense that it does not show how they are assembled. The stainless rod (tube goes through the threaded insert. Do you drill out the rivet on stopper block at the end of the tube?

Henry

there is no trick
rivet on aluminum rod needs to be removed first
 
The screws that go into the frame some times strip out and can be fixed with blue Locktight. Had one last for two years and was still fine when we sold the boat. This is the screw that holds the adjustable supporting rod to the frame of the hatch light.
 
Why do you guys use that threaded knob in the first place? I open my hatch all the time and never use it. Once the hatch is fully open you dont need it.
:smt017
 
there is no trick
rivet on aluminum rod needs to be removed first

I went to the boat and must agree with you.

I see no possible way to remove the threaded internal piece, the collar as Taylor calls it, unless you pull the rod out. No possible way to pull the rod out unless you remove the rivet at one end of the rod or the other.

To me, it looks like I’d be better off drilling out the rivet at the handle side of the rod then installing a small machine nut and bolt when I reinstall.
 

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