Bearing buddies only put the grease in front of the bearings with the spring applying pressure to help force it into the bearing. If you over grease them, it flows out the back through the spindle seal. In the pic with the whaler spindle, there is a passage for the grease to flow through the middle of the spindle and then back through the bearings. Greasing them is almost like removing and repacking the bearings. A much better setup than bearing buddies. SB
Grease!
- Thread starter MXer478
- Start date
AKBASSKING
Active Member
- Apr 13, 2008
- 4,649
- Boat Info
- 1988 Yacht Fisher
- Engines
- Twin 375hp Cat 3208 T/A
Every spring, I repack my bearings and replace the wheel seals. I use my boat in salt and fresh water and I don't want to be one of those along the road with a smoking wheel.
I clean the bearings and spray them out with Carb cleaner. Once all the grease is removed I inspect the bearing to make sure there is no discoloration. If there is, replace the bearing and race. I then use a bearing grease packer (you can get this at any automotive store) and pack my bearings with Staylube marine grease. It is blue sticky stuff which sticks to everything.
The tricky part is if you have to replace the race. I put it all back together (use a new cotter key) and then when I road test it I go back and feel the hubs and they should only be luke warm.
I have towed my boat up (not the Sea Ray, 20ft Alaska riverboat) and down the Alaska highway 6 times and i have never had a bearing failure.
I clean the bearings and spray them out with Carb cleaner. Once all the grease is removed I inspect the bearing to make sure there is no discoloration. If there is, replace the bearing and race. I then use a bearing grease packer (you can get this at any automotive store) and pack my bearings with Staylube marine grease. It is blue sticky stuff which sticks to everything.
The tricky part is if you have to replace the race. I put it all back together (use a new cotter key) and then when I road test it I go back and feel the hubs and they should only be luke warm.
I have towed my boat up (not the Sea Ray, 20ft Alaska riverboat) and down the Alaska highway 6 times and i have never had a bearing failure.
unlvrebel
New Member
Just a quick question - I take it that all of this trailer maintenance is done with the boat still on the trailer? Correct?
AKBASSKING
Active Member
- Apr 13, 2008
- 4,649
- Boat Info
- 1988 Yacht Fisher
- Engines
- Twin 375hp Cat 3208 T/A
Yep, just use a good jack stand (safety first) under the axle and be carful not to get dirt into anything.
tdappleman
Active Member
- Dec 17, 2007
- 1,608
- Boat Info
- 1996 270 Sundancer
- Engines
- New twin 4.3's - 235hp each with Alpha 1 Gen 2 Drives
I have always been told to not lube the trailer ball itself as dirt/sand/grit can then stick to the grease and cause more wear and tear. I have used a dry lube but not real sure it actually does anything. Anyone else heard this?
VTSeaRay
Active Member
- Feb 19, 2008
- 1,905
- Boat Info
- 2007 210 Select w/5.0L 260HP MPI Mercruiser Alpha 1
- Engines
- 8 cyl 5.0 Merc mpi, w/alpha 1 with 19" prop, with the speedo hole on the leading edge just above it
Edit: After reading this, I searched some more, and found another thread on bearing buddy. I moved it there.
http://www.goboatingamerica.com/hob/DM_article.asp?id=2274
http://www.goboatingamerica.com/hob/DM_article.asp?id=2274
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