Going all chain

[Dani-Lu]

I have all chain on my 390MY love it, the only question is should I be carrying bolt cutters to cut it in case the anchor becomes fouled?

The chain should have line connected and the line is what gets attached in the chain locker. This way you are able to let out all the chain and then cut the line.

 

[dtfeld]

What is your reasoning behind 250’? You planning to anchor in front of the dam? Just curious…..

Bennett

I have plans to move her back to the coast and do some cruising (someday). She came with 200' of rode and a 25' foot chain, so 225' total.

This chain come precut at 200' and 300'. 200' would be fine, 300' seems like complete overkill, but 250' seems like a nice number that was at least as long as she came with.

 

[bbwhitejr]

I have plans to move her back to the coast and do some cruising (someday). She came with 200' of rode and a 25' foot chain, so 225' total.

This chain come precut at 200' and 300'. 200' would be fine, 300' seems like complete overkill, but 250' seems like a nice number that was at least as long as she came with.

Got it! Great plan!

Bennett

 

[dtfeld]

After considering a couple suppliers, I ordered 200’ of the 5/16” ISO G43 from Marinenow off their website. How it gets here is anyone’s guess!

But I hope to resolve one of the last few major frustrations by hopefully being able to set and retrieve the anchor from the helm.

 

[HawkX66]

After considering a couple suppliers, I ordered 200’ of the 5/16” ISO G43 from Marinenow off their website. How it gets here is anyone’s guess!

But I hope to resolve one of the last few major frustrations by hopefully being able to set and retrieve the anchor from the helm.

How much did it end up being per foot?

 

[Irie308]

After considering a couple suppliers, I ordered 200’ of the 5/16” ISO G43 from Marinenow off their website. How it gets here is anyone’s guess!

But I hope to resolve one of the last few major frustrations by hopefully being able to set and retrieve the anchor from the helm.

I did exactly that. It shows up in a tiny box that weighs a ton. The delivery guys were like "what the hell is in the box?!" Also chose to paint it every 25'. I can deploy and retrieve it from the bridge and keep track of how much I'm putting out. Works great!

 

[dtfeld]

$659 for 200' so $3.29

 

[BGIII]

What windlass are you running this through? How has this chain worked out?

Looks like this should work for a Progress 1...

Progress 1 is correct. It has worked out well, I have no complaints.

(I did 200' of MN-HD-GC-G4-516-200FT, I think I could have fit 300' pretty easy)

 

[dtfeld]

I though about 300, but seemed overkill, plus 200' is going to be a ball buster to handle until installed on the boat, couldn't imagine 300'

 

[Stee6043]

I though about 300, but seemed overkill, plus 200' is going to be a ball buster to handle until installed on the boat, couldn't imagine 300'

300' would be an obscene amount but handling chain is surprisingly easy. Mine was delivered in a barrel that I could roll around. Getting it into the truck? No problem. You just move the chain hand-over-hand into the back of your truck, while removing it from the barrel. All you need is gloves

 

[scooper321]

The 142' is $2.88/foot. 150' is $3.73/foot.

This baffles me. Usually unit prices go DOWN with increased quantity. Ya think this is because of free shipping?

On a more serious note: Was the chain you guys bought from MarineNow stamped G4?

Thx
Steve

 

[HawkX66]

This baffles me. Usually unit prices go DOWN with increased quantity. Ya think this is because of free shipping?

On a more serious note: Was the chain you guys bought from MarineNow stamped G4?

Thx
Steve

It was stamped every so often. Not every link.

 

[lawndoctor]

So if I typically anchor in about 10 feet of water, is there a reason to choose all-chain rode over say 50’ of chain and the rest nylon line?

With an all-chain rode I need to use a bridle, in which case about the first 50’ of the rode taking the load is chain and the last 20-25’ feet of rode taking the load is the bridle. Unless I am missing something, this is essentially the same result as with the chain/line combination, that is, 50’ of chain and 20-25’ feet of nylon line. The difference is that with the chain/line combination I don’t have the hassle of attaching the bridle to the anchor chain with a chain hook or snubber pendant. Instead of that, I can just deploy my rode and make the nylon line fast to the windlass drum or a bow cleat.

Is there a reason to prefer all chain rode in these circumstances?

 

[scooper321]

So if I typically anchor in about 10 feet of water, is there a reason to choose all-chain rode over say 50’ of chain and the rest nylon line?

With an all-chain rode I need to use a bridle, in which case about the first 50’ of the rode taking the load is chain and the last 20-25’ feet of rode taking the load is the bridle. Unless I am missing something, this is essentially the same result as with the chain/line combination, that is, 50’ of chain and 20-25’ feet of nylon line. The difference is that with the chain/line combination I don’t have the hassle of attaching the bridle to the anchor chain with a chain hook or snubber pendant. Instead of that, I can just deploy my rode and make the nylon line fast to the windlass drum or a bow cleat.

Is there a reason to prefer all chain rode in these circumstances?

I went through the same thought process that you're doing. I anchor in similar depths. I went with 50' chain and the rest rope. One factor I had to consider was my first mate. Mine would not have liked to deal with a bridle every time we anchored. And, to be honest, neither would I. But a bridle would be a must with all chain, so it's an extra hassle. I just went with a little extra chain (50' from the original 30') and am happy with that.

 

[Stee6043]

So if I typically anchor in about 10 feet of water, is there a reason to choose all-chain rode over say 50’ of chain and the rest nylon line?

With an all-chain rode I need to use a bridle, in which case about the first 50’ of the rode taking the load is chain and the last 20-25’ feet of rode taking the load is the bridle. Unless I am missing something, this is essentially the same result as with the chain/line combination, that is, 50’ of chain and 20-25’ feet of nylon line. The difference is that with the chain/line combination I don’t have the hassle of attaching the bridle to the anchor chain with a chain hook or snubber pendant. Instead of that, I can just deploy my rode and make the nylon line fast to the windlass drum or a bow cleat.

Is there a reason to prefer all chain rode in these circumstances?

I'm 1.5 seasons into using all chain and couldn't be more pleased. If I'm anchoring for an afternoon to dinghy to the beach or let the kids swim in the lake I do not use a bridle. Whether it's 10' deep or 30'. The bridle is for rough weather or long periods at anchor where one might expect rough whether, in my opinion.

A nice feature of chain is that you get (I think this is the proper term) a catenary in the chain when you let out proper scope. For 10' water I'd generally drop 60' of chain or so. With that I'll have a nice gentle "loop" in the chain going into the water. That loop takes up any wake from passing boats, etc. Zero hard pulls on the windlass in a typical afternoon at anchor.

Only for overnights do I bother with the bridle.

And man do I love not dealing with the chain splice and the windless. FLAWLESS retrievals, every time. Another nice feature, if you ever find yourself anchoring in semi-busy coves, you have zero concern over someone running over your anchor line.

I can't think of many good reasons not to go all chain. Especially when the cost is so close, relatively speaking, if replacing the entire rode.

 

[Stee6043]

One other observation - of all the "big boats" I see in a weekend at anchor with all chain, whether on Lake Michigan or inland, I never see folks using bridles. Ever. Like maybe once

 

[Korkie]

+1 on Stee6043. We went all chain 2 seasons ago. Also, tired of fighting the splice and twisted rode causing issues. No issues retrieving and we also do not use a bridle when anchoring for an afternoon. We let out 5 to 1 foot of depth as well. I use a bridle any time I will be away from the boat or overnight.

 

[lawndoctor]

Thanks for all the replies, appreciate the knowledge and input.

I had discounted the catenary effect based on articles saying that it really does little to mitigate the transmission of force back to the boat. The articles I read say that although it does tend to have the effect of absorbing that force in deeper water because there is more chain out, there is much less of an effect in shallow water. (Example, http://kb.rocna.com/kb/Scope_vs_catenary). I’m not sure how accurate that assessment is, given that your real world experience seems to contradict it.

The other problem with all chain for me is I do not have a chain stopper, so unless I am willing to just let out the chain and leave the windlass taking all of the force of holding the boat, I must use a bridle or at least a single line with a chain hook or snubber. The boat came with all galvanized chain so I will use that for now with a single line and chain hook or maybe snubber, but long term I am thinking of replacing the chain because it is rusting.

In thinking about the chain/line combination, I wasn’t considering problems with the rode feeding through the windlass. Is that a common problem? If so, has anyone found a source for chain/line rode that does not have this problem, at least not as severely as perhaps other sources? I have a Mantus swivel so I would think twisting would not be a problem, but perhaps I’m missing something there too.

Thanks again for the benefit of your experience.

 

[scooper321]

In thinking about the chain/line combination, I wasn’t considering problems with the rode feeding through the windlass. Is that a common problem? If so, has anyone found a source for chain/line rode that does not have this problem, at least not as severely as perhaps other sources? I have a Mantus swivel so I would think twisting would not be a problem, but perhaps I’m missing something there too.

I had significant issues with the rope/chain splice not feeding through the windlass properly. I replaced the tension spring and the spring finger in the windlass, but no improvement. The reality was, the rope was about 18 years old and the splice was brittle. So we had to push on the back side of the tension finger in order for the gypsy to grab the splice with enough friction to retract it (no problems letting it out, however). This puts someone's appendage in harms way, so it's not ideal. But when we replaced the rope rode and chain (Defender Marine did the splice for us and shipped the entire finished rode to us) we found no issues with the rope/chain splice any longer. It feeds through the windlass just fine. We have the Lofrans Progress 1 windlass. The problems people have with the splice feeding through this windlass appear to be:

1) tension spring needs replacement (not putting enough force on the rode)
2) windlass tension finger worn (not putting enough force on the rode)
3) aged/brittle splice

I addressed all three and now have no issues.

One other thing: I have a cleat at the bow, to tie off the rope rode and take the pressure off the windlass. I do not want my boat to swing on just the windlass.

 

[Stee6043]

Thanks for all the replies, appreciate the knowledge and input.

I had discounted the catenary effect based on articles saying that it really does little to mitigate the transmission of force back to the boat. The articles I read say that although it does tend to have the effect of absorbing that force in deeper water because there is more chain out, there is much less of an effect in shallow water. (Example, http://kb.rocna.com/kb/Scope_vs_catenary). I’m not sure how accurate that assessment is, given that your real world experience seems to contradict it.

The other problem with all chain for me is I do not have a chain stopper, so unless I am willing to just let out the chain and leave the windlass taking all of the force of holding the boat, I must use a bridle or at least a single line with a chain hook or snubber. The boat came with all galvanized chain so I will use that for now with a single line and chain hook or maybe snubber, but long term I am thinking of replacing the chain because it is rusting.

In thinking about the chain/line combination, I wasn’t considering problems with the rode feeding through the windlass. Is that a common problem? If so, has anyone found a source for chain/line rode that does not have this problem, at least not as severely as perhaps other sources? I have a Mantus swivel so I would think twisting would not be a problem, but perhaps I’m missing something there too.

Thanks again for the benefit of your experience.

The only time you wouldn't have a catenary in the rode is if you're anchored in 20kts of wind or high current, in my experience. In which case I probably wouldn't be anchoring to begin with, I'd be sipping cocktails at the slip. In 10ft of water I definitely have the catenary when I let 60' +/- of chain out. I wish I had a photo....

I also lack a chain stop. The windlass holds the boat when anchored for the afternoon, as I mentioned above. I understand that this is not ideal but I've done this for quite a number of years and, knock on wood, no issues yet. Of the all the folks I regularly boat with, nobody relieves the pressure from their windlass when anchoring for the day. Whether chain or rope. Doesn't make it proper but I haven't had a boat neighbor replace a windlass yet...knocking on more wood...