Glendinning Syncronizer Flex Shaft

dtfeld

Water Contrails
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Jun 5, 2016
5,571
Milton, GA
Boat Info
410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
Engines
Cat 3126 V-Drives
Just getting around to diagnosing and fixing the Glendinning Synchronizer. I found the flex shaft on both engines were turning the cables but were not connected to the engine due to a cracked/chipped off key. Additionally, I see that there is some wear on the brass.

Looking for opinion as to whether this is an alignment issue, or do these normally wear out after a while? My guess is these have been loose in the fitting and that is the cause of the wear pattern on the brass. No guess on the original failure cause.

Anybody have any experience with these? Parts are cheap, but prefer to do it right the first time.

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I had a similar issue 5 years ago when the “brass tab” wore off the starboard coupling not allowing any signal to get through. The unit tried to advance he throttle of 5he slave to max rpms when in fact they were closely synchronized.

My suggestion is to buy two new coupling units and align the conn3 toons using the spring slides of the couplers. Would rather the brass coupler fail than cause an issue with the key way in the crankshaft. It is say to align the units with the upgraded coupler and spring section.
 
This is a common wear issue for the Glendinning synchronizer.

Suggest you call Glendinning (don't be surprised if Mr. Glendinning answers the phone) and order a new pair of shafts. There has been a design change so be sure Glendinnig understands which model you need. Don't worry; they are cheap).
 
Thanks guys. Parts ordered. Their website has the items with good pictures and descriptions, so easy to find and order. Hopefully I'll get them in time to install for the week-end. Maybe another item off the list:)

EC, not following you on how to align these...What are the "spring slides"?
 
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Lining them up is easy with the new design, But you will need to buy the line up pin from them. Bolt the new part on the crank, slide the lineup pin in the new part on the crank, Tighten the bolts on the bracket that holds the drive joint and your done. Very nice people to deal with and the most reasonable money I have spent on the boat. Much easier to run the boat with it working.
 
When you say “wear”, your not kidding. The port side was almost worn through. The socket bolted on the balancer felt like it had worn, should I replace that as well?

I ran it this morning, everything synced up! Very nice.

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Looks like this is the “new” drive plate. I put new flex shafts in, but I felt like the old drive plate maybe worn...will this fix the wear issues?

8E1C6237-8A83-4110-9430-AE871A95C4E8.png
 
When you say “wear”, your not kidding. The port side was almost worn through. The socket bolted on the balancer felt like it had worn, should I replace that as well?

I ran it this morning, everything synced up! Very nice.

Answer...YES!! Starboard failed after less that 6 miles of running. I guess the whole shooting match needs replacing. Damn. I was hoping that was a simple job.
 

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