Gimbal ring/gimbal housing rebuild-pics

So how confident are you with this cover plate repair, versus the 1" plug method? Just discovered that I need this repair to my 260 Sundancer, and was a bit concerned when the only option from the yard was pull the engine - an extreme solution to get at the swivel shaft. Mechanic is willing to do the cover plate repair options - thinks it might just work OK - if I get the parts.

Anyway, just looking for some last thoughts before the cutting starts.
 
I still havent gotten mine done yet.
I found another guy that said they will do it through the plug holes on the side that are already there.

I think i will feel a lil better letting them do it that way instead of cutting another larger opening since the plug holes are already there.

But the the shop that was going to do the window fix said they,ve been doing it for a long time with no problems.

My marina that said they would not do it either way and said it will be easier to pull the engine, said the motor pulling would only take a half hour and would cost the same as doing it through the holes cause its such a PITA. But they want $3000 to do it!!


FOURGONE, What kind of price did they quote you on the repair?

From what ive seen.............. the pin from merc is about twice the price of the stainless pin you can get from jrmarine for $150.
The stainless pin should extend the life of the seal and is cheaper so i feel buying that is a no brainer.
But ive also had some mechanics say they would only use the pin from merc.
 
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The existing plugs from the previous repair are probably glued / loctited in. Good luck removing them.
 
The plugs are only plastic and hopefully they use a sealer that doesnt harden.

Not my problem though....lol.
 
Yep they are plastic, and mine would not even begin to budge. Getting the swivel shaft nut off then back on by working through those side plugs would be one large PITA.
 
Thought since i posted info on my repairs here i would update the info.

My boat still isnt done yet but its getting there. Should be done by this coming weekend.

My repair bill got alot higher than anticipated.

My swivel shaft seal leak turned into alot bigger problems.

Before starting they floated the boat and found that not only the swivel shaft seal was leaking but also had a leak at the bottom of the transom assembly.

I had noticed the water coming in there as well but everyone else told me that it was just the swivel shaft seal. They said the water was coming in the seal and just running down through the assembly but that wasnt the case.

The motor was then pulled because the transom assembly would need to be taken off and re-sealed. After pulling the assmbly off, we found 2 holes about the size of a dime on the gimbel housing. One on each side.

I was going to need the gimbel housing, a gimbel bearing, trim senders (wires were raw) & new bellows. We decided a complete new transom assembly was the best choice now.

I also had a little bit of rot at the outdrive opening. It wasnt real bad but at 2 of the locations where the transom assembly mounts, there was wood missing and you could squeeze the transom pretty easily. I contimplated just grinding out all the soft wood and filling with fiberglass but decided to do the right thing and have the transom repaired.

I found a guy to do the transom repair for $1200. everyone else i talked to wanted $2000 plus.

He cut out the transom from the inside about 18 inches all the way around the outdrive opening and all the way to the floor and replaced the transom wood and glassed it back in. Then a new outdrive opening will be cut out and should be nice an solid.

If i were to just grind out the soft wood and use a filler, I would have been worried it wouldnt last and would have been looking to then sell the boat after this season so i think i made the right choice.

So im now looking at a repair bill of $4500 for a boat i just paid $6000 for. A tough pill to swallow but i would have paid $10,000 for the boat if i had not been able to work out the deal i did. At least i now know what i have and know it will last a long time as is .............. Hopefully!!

$2000 - Brand new 2009 transom assembly
$1200 - Transom repair
$1300 - Labor cost plus installing new starter & new sea water pump impellar kit.
---------------
$4500
 
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Such is boating....as you said, you will have a solid transom and gimbal housing and a lot of piece of mind....thanks for the update.
 
Quint4 - I gotta say thanks for starting this thread. Saved me a bundel!.

I have the marina mechanics do the swivel pin/gimbal ring repair with the JR Marnine plate option. Also had JR Marine supply the SS swivel pin, and the hi tensile U-bolt, as well as the custom tools.

The marina mechanics liked this repair method - had never done it before, so they surfed this post, and the JR Marine site, and since I bought the parts warranty was not their on their desk.

A supperior option to pulling the engine, and way way better than the standard Merc-recommended repair of the two drilled holes and plastic plugs.

My costs ran about $2,000 CDN for parts. I opted for a new gimbal ring rather than a re-built from JR Marine -mainly becasue the shipping costs and yard charges would eat most of the savings, esp after the shop cut me a deal on the new ring.

About $1,200 in labour ( 12 hours ) including reinstalling three new bellows, shift cable, trim senders, lubes, gaskets, etc. They figure they saved about 12 hours by not having to pull the engine! And they bought the custom tools! They figure they will recommend this to other customers in the future.

Now I'm back in the water, and it tracks far better than ever. Who knew!

Again, thanks Quint4 - this is what makes CSR so valuable.

Cheers,
 
Very good Gregg......I have about 35 hrs on my rebuild. Pulled it out of the water last week and all looks good and tight.
 
Thank you for the info. It makes me understand exactly what I am dealing with.

This appears to be a problem that I am having with my boat that has a bravo III and was told that they can fix it for a mere $4000.00. It looks like a lot of work that I could pull off, but, I don't know if I could get my hands on some of the tools and the help from a reliable mechanic if I run into a jam. Another problem is that I don't have a trailer or storage facility that I could put the boat while I work on it. That can be overcome, but, do you have an estimate of what your final cost was by doing it yourself?

Sad thing is, I bought the boat new and have it on a lift outside my home so the boat does not sit in the salt water. The boat is covered and meticulously maintained. It looks new. I even bought the extended warranty, but, it does not cover corrosion or wearable items. It was purchased in 2002 and has 700 hours so it has been used, but, is a bad design flaw that should be a recall.
 
About the cost question in my last reply... I went back through the pages and found my $2000 answer. Ouch. Any way I go, it's gonna be expensive. But you just can't put a price on a great day of boating. As Jimmy Buffet says, " There's no rewind and no replay on life"

Thank you again for the info. I need to start saving for the repair and not go way off shore fishing. Bummer.
 
The $2000 price was not from me. I replaced about everything possible while I had it all tore apart and it was less than $1500 including tools.
If you only do swivel shaft & seal you would be around $500. I would at least recommend new boots while it's apart.
 
Just to let you guys know for the future, there is a guy in fort myers,fl that has a warehouse full of mercury/mercruiser parts and he will sell a brand new complete transom assembly for a bravo, with trim rams, inner plate, shift cable, etc, with one year warranty from mercury for around $2500! Easier and better than drilling holes and using old corroded parts over.
 
VTSEARAYDLR said:
Just to let you guys know for the future, there is a guy in fort myers,fl that has a warehouse full of mercury/mercruiser parts and he will sell a brand new complete transom assembly for a bravo, with trim rams, inner plate, shift cable, etc, with one year warranty from mercury for around $2500! Easier and better than drilling holes and using old corroded parts over.
Click to expand...

You can get the new transom assembly direct from mercruiser for $2000.

The prices on transom assemblies really came down this year.
 
VTSEARAYDLR said:
Just to let you guys know for the future, there is a guy in fort myers,fl that has a warehouse full of mercury/mercruiser parts and he will sell a brand new complete transom assembly for a bravo, with trim rams, inner plate, shift cable, etc, with one year warranty from mercury for around $2500! Easier and better than drilling holes and using old corroded parts over.
Click to expand...

No way in hell easier but probably better.
 
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sorry, not ridiculing, I have been in marine service for 15 plus years and always dreaded the gimbal ring repair vs. replacement. It looks like you did a great job on your repair though.
 
Thanks for the posts, even though it is increasing my pain.
Went into the shop with sloppy steering and stiff shifting. Initial estimate $6000-8000
Ended up at $13,500.00 incl tax and hauling for complete gimble/transom housing replacement, including pulling motor, water pump, tune up , but not including the B-3 drive.
He did rebuild the upper gearbox. (didn't fix the problem, it was the shifter cable I requested to begin with).

Merc dealer started with the plug repair, bagged it after other "issues appeared".. corrosion related. mercathode grounds missing and broken unit by former owner's work.

On the run home, idled down to check for leaks, hear water sprinkling in, bilge pump on auto, had that sinking feeling.
Exhaust y - hose had blown off . Head back to shop quickly, but then water coming in faster.(raw water impeller much bigger than bilge pump impeller.)

I will not be rushing back to Rick's Master Marine.
Water still leaking into the bilge ever since (lives in covered moorage), but 90 day warranty long since gone.

Been boating for 40 years; this will be the first and last sterndrive boat. Looking for an inboard sedan, after fixing this again.
 
Sorry to hear it. I know there are great mechanics out there but one of the reasons I do everything possible myself is I have been jacked around by so many car dealers, contractors, cable installers, on and on and on....... Have you identified what is leaking?
Get in the engine compartment with a flashlight and pinpoint where it's coming from....could be something simple.
 
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