Gimbal bearing and bellows need to be done?

Engine alignment, anodes and water pump kit come to mind, but you may have just forgot to include it in your list.
Good point. I would "assume" that an alignment check/adjustment would be arbitrarily done anytime the outdrive is pulled, as that's SOP in the Merc service manual.
 
What other kind of issues could I expect them to find if anything? Just curious.

The more obvious, the u-joint could be bad, the steering arm sometimes get corroded, the steering "kingpin"* is sometimes worn out. I would think the people doing the work will be checking those things.

*might be the wrong name, later models have a square drive that tends to get round with age and corrosion
 
I know folks have their opinions regarding this process, but two years ago I had almost exactly the same stuff done as "preventative maintenance" by a "fly by night" mechanic and it set in motion an unfortunate and expensive situation that cost me thousands of dollars instead of getting it done properly the first time. Just make sure you get a reputable mechanic - a seemingly simple process can cost you a lot of money and boat time done by the wrong person.
 
As an update, the work described above is all complete and the boat sounds much better (no more metallic grinding sound from the gimbal bearing). The only thing I am having some trouble with is the trim on the prop. It's only going up very slightly from the lowest diving position, so I will need to have them rectify that. But it's good that they got the gauge working for that again.
 
My drive wouldn't go down I had to replace the end caps on my trim cylinders and it fixed the problem
 
My drive wouldn't go down I had to replace the end caps on my trim cylinders and it fixed the problem
Mine was working fine before i had the gimbal bearing, bellows, and trim sender work done.

I essentially told the marina that the gauge for the trim stopped working, but i could trim the motor fine. So they fixed the gauge, but now i can't lift my trim very much.
 
I would honestly take it back to them and have them fix it I wouldn't even guess what the problem is or think about it I would bring it right back to them you just paid them to fix it and everything should have been operational before you picked up the boat that's all that's what I would do
 
I also had work done by a so-called professional marine mechanic and it ended up costing me $3,000 in a week to get my boat fixed so I do what I can do myself everything else I don't know anything about it goes to the marina and I pay to have it done right I trust them they're a little expensive but I know it's done right
 
What other kind of issues could I expect them to find if anything? Just curious.

The first time I got the engine started on my '85 250SRV it was making a horrible sound, like nuts and bolts inside a clothes dryer. It seemed to run fine, just sounded like it was going to fall apart! Turns out it was the anti-backwash flappers in the exhaust manifolds. They were shot, no rubber left on them. Replaced both sides and it's nice and quiet.

 
Can someone tell me how I can adjust the trim limits? I rather not wait until next year because when the boat is sitting on the lift, the bottom part of the outboard is still touching the water. I'm sure the water levels will drop before winter, but i do not like having it so low.
 
Can someone tell me how I can adjust the trim limits? I rather not wait until next year because when the boat is sitting on the lift, the bottom part of the outboard is still touching the water. I'm sure the water levels will drop before winter, but i do not like having it so low.
Use your trailer button to raise the drive a bit more.
 
Use your trailer button to raise the drive a bit more.
That's what the issue is. I used to be able to raise it all the way up with the trailer button (the button on the throttle), but now it only goes up very little.
 
That's what the issue is. I used to be able to raise it all the way up with the trailer button (the button on the throttle), but now it only goes up very little.
Can you explain better? What exactly is happening? Sounds/motor running/not running/etc.

You should be able to use the "normal" trim button to raise it to it's pre-set limit... then use the trailer button to raise it all the way. OR, the trailer button can be used to raise it all the way from full down, as well.
 
Can you explain better? What exactly is happening? Sounds/motor running/not running/etc.

You should be able to use the "normal" trim button to raise it to it's pre-set limit... then use the trailer button to raise it all the way. OR, the trailer button can be used to raise it all the way from full down, as well.
I have only ever adjusted the prop using the up and down trim button located on the throttle control. When I picked up the boat after the gimbal bearing work they replaced the trim limit sender wiring as it was chewed up and the gauge was not showing the trim level. The gauge now works, but the prop is stuck in the lowest position (the position you would use to drive) and the trim buttons only allow me to raise the prop very slightly. When I raise it, it sounds fine, but then it just stops as if it's the highest position, when in fact it is stuck very low.

When i drive into our very shallow parking spot, this is an issue.
 
I have only ever adjusted the prop using the up and down trim button located on the throttle control. When I picked up the boat after the gimbal bearing work they replaced the trim limit sender wiring as it was chewed up and the gauge was not showing the trim level. The gauge now works, but the prop is stuck in the lowest position (the position you would use to drive) and the trim buttons only allow me to raise the prop very slightly. When I raise it, it sounds fine, but then it just stops as if it's the highest position, when in fact it is stuck very low.

When i drive into our very shallow parking spot, this is an issue.
OK, from what you wrote, it sounds like the shop fixed it back to "normal". Use the other button - your "trailer" button. It's not "stuck" - it's at the upper range of the "safe" operating range - that's the whole purpose of having a trim limit switch - keeps someone from raising the drive too high while the engine is on and causing damage.
 
OK, from what you wrote, it sounds like the shop fixed it back to "normal". Use the other button - your "trailer" button. It's not "stuck" - it's at the upper range of the "safe" operating range - that's the whole purpose of having a trim limit switch - keeps someone from raising the drive too high while the engine is on and causing damage.
Oh I see. Where is the trailer button located?

I guess my grandfather removed that limiter because we need to raise and lower it every single time we drive the boat.
 
Ya exactly what LD said, the throttle button is a limited range for trimming while running. Want to raise for trailering, use the trailer switch on the dash.
 
The only reason someone removes the limiter (bypasses the limit switch) is because it's bad. In other words, a "band aid". Raising and lowering a drive every time you drive is the normal course of action for everyone.

Look closer at the throttle/shift control box :)

Post a pic of it if you need to.
 
There is no other switch on the boat that I am aware of that adjusts the prop other than the trailer button you are referring to. That's the only button i use and it's still not going higher.
 
There is no other switch on the boat that I am aware of that adjusts the prop other than the trailer button you are referring to. That's the only button i use and it's still not going higher.
This 2005 Baja I have has the same setup. 1 switch only.
Does the motor stop pumping? Straining and not going further up?
 

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