*Gen 3 Cool Fuel Module Issue*

Last year i had to fight with MM and then they changed my fuel modules fuel injectors... As everything was clogged and bad... I had to pay for labor witch came out to be around 600 to 800 a motor....
 
I was able to get them off yesterday. And there was a good deal of delamination. However all the paint was intact. I was able to remove them in large chunks. I I have new lower housing so I’m going to clean up the cap and reuse.
 
You should be able to swap out all those parts from the old to the new. But be sure to swap out ALL of them. There's a funky spring-loaded checkvalve somewhere on the side of the little lunchbox thing that I forgot about and I couldn't get the damn unit to function. I took it of 15x and ran both pumps on my car battery to make sure they were functioning, until I realized I had left this gadget out.
Thanks Ron, i had to go back and read through the thread you posted of your swap. Unfortunately i couldn't view the photos. I do see the check valve you're talking about though.
 
Is it possible, to protect the injectors and rail, to put a filter between the cf module and the rail?

If so, what would you use and how would you install it?
 
So I've replaced the lower housing and had the paint removed from the caps of the modules. Fortunately all the paint that was peeling was all intact. The pumps filters were free of paint chips as well. I'm reinstalling these tomorrow and needed some advice. I want to test the units before i bolt them back to the engines. Can I add some gas to the units and hook it up to a battery to confirm that I lined up the pumps correctly and that they are actually pumping fuel? Second, once i hook them back up to the engines how do i purge any air from the the fuel lines?
 
Just put power and ground to the 2 wire connector, you should get the pumps to activate.

The air will self purge, just might have to crank it a few seconds.

You mentioned the filters, the paint issue involved the paint peeling in areas AFTER the filters. The filters would catch the paint. The pieces were sent right up the fuel line and would clog the injectors.
 
Thanks, I meant the bottom of the pumps themselves (mesh pickup).
 
Sounds like it could get dangerous. Don't have faith in your work ?
I do, but lining up the pumps in the module took a little bit of trying. I currently have the risers off for replacement so the plan is to put the modules back on then the risers and exhaust tubes. I want to make sure I have it right before i put everything back together.
 
Hi guys. Old thread, but the problem remains in the industry. I have a 2008 Chaparral 250 Sig with the Merc 350 MPI motor. Started having a "popping" sound come from the engine (video below). I replaced cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, and the cool fuel filter. No help. Finally, I called Mercury, described the issue, and they immediately said they would be sending me a new cool fuel module, hose kits, and 8 new injectors but I would be responsible for labor. Said my symptoms were symptomatic of the paint issue with the cool fuel module. Marina quoted me $3300 for the labor! So I got the parts from them and have another mechanic who's going to help me install it all this weekend.

The point of the post is to represent "other" symptoms of (according to Mercury) the same cool fuel issue. I have yet to find anybody on any forum who had this popping sound be traced to the cool fuel module. I'll know more this weekend after we do the replacement, so I am hopeful this clears it up.

 
I had that popping sound on my 350 MAG which turned out to be the low pressure fuel pump on the cf3 module. Ending up swapping out the whole unit. Not sure if it failed or it was clogged from the paint chips.
 
I had that popping sound on my 350 MAG which turned out to be the low pressure fuel pump on the cf3 module. Ending up swapping out the whole unit. Not sure if it failed or it was clogged from the paint chips.

That is REALLY good to know! Hopefully the fuel module replacement will solve it for me too! Thank you!
 
This is the first I have heard of Merc sending you the parts.

Others have had to go to a Merc authorized shop and have them order the parts. Parts were still free but you had to pay the labor.

There are many DIY guys here that could replace these parts themselves but didn’t have that option.
 
This is the first I have heard of Merc sending you the parts.

Others have had to go to a Merc authorized shop and have them order the parts. Parts were still free but you had to pay the labor.

There are many DIY guys here that could replace these parts themselves but didn’t have that option.

Yeah, I understand and I am fortunate. I think the marina simply didn’t want to do the labor if they couldn’t make money on the parts. Just a guess. They did indeed receive the parts from Mercury then allowed me to pick them up so I could install them. I mean why else would they quote me $3200 in labor only?? I agree I am fortunate.
 
So you did have to have the dealer order them.

$3200 labor for 1 motor is VERY high. $600-$1200 per motor seems to be the going rate mentioned here if I remember correctly.
 
Yes, the Mercruiser dealer ordered them for me after I originally spoke to Mercury directly (they told me to have a dealer call them and order the parts).
 
Was wondering if any Cool Fuel 3 owners got proactive and did some upgrading to their units before they failed?
I did mine before it failed, I called Mercruiser and they said the problem with the paint and corrosion issues was fixed in 2014 and they gave me the lasted part number with all issues fixed. Part number 8M0047215 This is what I installed in my boat.
They also tell you you need to replace the sea water hoses but you do not have to just break the bracket out of the old ones and use the hoses. Google it
 
Spark600: Did Mercruiser pay for anything in your case? I'm wondering if I should be proactive as well.
 

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