*Gen 3 Cool Fuel Module Issue*

I thought all CF4s were no longer painted!? Just to confirm, you had a CF4 on starboard that was flaking and replaced just the cap, regulator and orings?

And I was thinking about how to relieve fuel pressure! I don't know how yet, but haven't researched it yet.

Is it worth trying to go through MarineMax for this and just pay labor? I'm usually DIY, but sounds like a lot of people have been getting MerCruiser to pay for the part, but that's generally a CF3. Will they pay to replace a CF4?
 
I think we are simply confusing the terms CF4 and CF3. I have not seen Mercruiser use the term CF4 in relation to the fuel cooler on our boats. They have used the terminology “updated housing”, etc. Here’s my understanding, without using marketing names...

So, there is a TSB to address the original raw water connections design. Then there was the design update that resulted in the addition of the blue raw water drain plug on the cooler.

I don’t have any way to know the basis for this last design change but my starboard engine had a non-original, updated lower housing that failed with a painted cap. The current replacement cap appears to be some sort of black anodized (ie not painted). This is also true if you purchase a complete CF assembly (which I did for my non-updated port engine last year).

So, in short, it appears you may have the updated housing, but a painted cap (if you confirm flakes inside). This is the situation I had on my starboard engine.

As for seeking help from Mercury, it can’t hurt. I have not. I don’t have a local Mercruiser facility that I trust and my understanding is that all work must be done through one. Merc tech labor in my area is costly and stated hours to remedy these issues usually seems inflated to me to the point where I’d just prefer to fix it and back on the water.
 
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AH, I see where you're talking about now. Yeah, no water passages up there. Could be the o-ring, weakened by E10?

Looking at the parts diagram but not seeing a part there?
 
rondds said:
AH, I see where you're talking about now. Yeah, no water passages up there. Could be the o-ring, weakened by E10?

Looking at the parts diagram but not seeing a part there?
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The o-ring sealing the regulator is part of the regulator. If that’s the failure, I assume you buy a new regulator unless you happen to have one the fits the dimensions and pressure requirements, etc.
 
McMaster-Carr is a great resource for o-rings of all specs. You'd have to measure carefully and order probably a bag of 50. BUT cheaper than a regulator I'm sure.
 
Anyone have the sizes of the orings or a part number on these cooling lines to the cool fuel module. I have a slight leak and want to replace them. I will be checking fuel pressure at pulling my regulator to check it. twin 496s. First version of the cool fuel 3. Boat is running too good to mess with until end of season. I will also be pulling fuel rail and getting injectors cleaned. UNLESS I can find a Mercruiser tech or dealer Buffalo,NY area that would be able to get parts replaced from mercruiser.
Screenshot_20220824-140253 (1).png

Screenshot_20220823-045805 (1).png
 
scoflaw said:
The problem is usually corrosion in the housing where the 0-rings sit.
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Before I pull it apart I would like to have parts on hand boat is in water and it is under the water line. I will clean it out and put it back together or wait till I haul it in October.
 
Email this guy and see if he has any of the stainless steel fittings.
As scoflaw said, its a corrosion issue.
These fixed mine in 2019, still going strong.
max@traxxion.com
 
wyrman said:
Email this guy and see if he has any of the stainless steel fittings.
As scoflaw said, its a corrosion issue.
These fixed mine in 2019, still going strong.
max@traxxion.com
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I still have the original plastic THEY are Not threaded. Does he make one or older version or threaded for the newer modules.?
 
Tri County Trail said:
I still have the original plastic THEY are Not threaded. Does he make one or older version or threaded for the newer modules.?
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That's what I had. I don't remeber the version, but it was the plastic ones that had a metal clip bolted in to keep them in place.
He has the older non threaded ones.
 
Before I had the Cool Fuel Merc replacement done, I had leaks in my original units at those attachments. Took both cool fuel units off, tapped them out and screwed in barbed connections. Worked great, never an other leaking issue. If you get new units, they will come with the new barbed fittings in them. I just had mine done, Parts were supplied by Mercruiser, Labor by Merc Auth Serv Center @ $350 per motor. Fixed all the fuel issues I was having.
 
Korkie

Could you please message me the process you used with the dealer and mercruiser? What area are you located. I am having trouble finding a dealer who know anything about this process, I near buffalo ny in Wilson on Lake Ontario. Any help would be appreciated. I can do the labor myself but I would love updated parts any injectors ect. Thanks for any support.
Korkie said:
Before I had the Cool Fuel Merc replacement done, I had leaks in my original units at those attachments. Took both cool fuel units off, tapped them out and screwed in barbed connections. Worked great, never an other leaking issue. If you get new units, they will come with the new barbed fittings in them. I just had mine done, Parts were supplied by Mercruiser, Labor by Merc Auth Serv Center @ $350 per motor. Fixed all the fuel issues I was having.
Click to expand...
Le
 
To Qualify for this program ALL labor and paperwork has to be done by an Authorized Mercruiser Center. You cannot do it yourself, Merc will only deal with a Merc Cert Tech at an Auth Center. Sent you a PM also
 
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