gelcoat repair

M

mikestein

New Member
Jun 5, 2007
129
Columbia, SC
Time to start repairing dings and scratches. I've fixed some with mixed results. Does anyone have a link to a good step by step process? And what kind of product do you think is best? I've got a little jar of the Sea Ray gelcoat repair paste which is what I'm going to use barring any better ideas. One thing I really want to avoid is sanding through the gelcoat. How thick is the gelcoat on the hull?
 
I probably should have posted this question on another board. I forgot that none of us ever scratches their gelcoat and therefore have no experience in repairing it! :grin: So, anybody? Any hints, links, ideas on repairing scratches and gouges?
 
Mike, sorry no personal experience other than buffing out scratches. I have had great success on scratches with a random orbital and also a polisher and some light compound, then Seapower Wax cleaner followed by a high quality Poly polish.

That is different than adding Gelcoat though.
Here seems to be a good site for instructing you to do it.
Just make sure you don't just fill the hole or it won't stick- I do know that.
Do it Yourself Gelcoat repair

Good luck :thumbsup:
 
I have had some minor experience. There are some threads on this topic that should be looked at. One source that I have found is Spectrum Color. They are in Washington (?) and can supply you with a kit that matches the exact color you have (yah I know its Arctic White, but do you know how many different Arctic Whites SR has used over the years?)

They also have some pretty good instructions. It is all pretty straightforward. The important things are preparation and patience.

Follow the instructions that the gelcoat supplier gives you, but in general:

Start with the low numbered (abt 220) wet sand paper and slowly work through to the high number (600 or 800) before you transition to rubbing compound.

Keep the sandpaper wet, the water washes the cuttings from the paper and keeps it clean. Also use a good sanding block that matches the surface you are working on, flat for falt, curved for .... I like to use a garden hose with the nozzle set to mist on the work piece. Unless you are a pro and have done this many times before this should be a hand sanding job. Part of the reason for using wet paper is that it keeps the substrate cold (and hard). Power sanders make the gelcoat soften and can easily embed impurities in the fisnish (and ruin the color match)

One real important thing be very stingy putting this stuff on. It goes on real easy and it is a lot of work to remove a blob. Thin layers may take more time between hardenings, but they sand off a heck of a lot easier.

Good luck it ain't rocket science, but it you take your time it will come out ok.

Henry
 
Chips, Scratches and Deep Abrasions can be easily repaired. First clean out the wound. If it is only Gelcoat deep you can fill it with the correct color paste. We are Lucky as SeaRays supplier "Spectrum" can be found by using Google. Make sure to identify the color correctly before ordering.
Mix the Paste and Hardener carefully and then Dab it into the wound neatly. Fill as much as you can and then cover it with Wax paper. Smooth out the repair compound making an attempt to overlap the edges of the damage with the repair Paste. Now, leave it alone for a little while. Depending on how much Hardener you used, (not too much!), if you catch the repair just right you can shave it down with a Single Edge Razor Blade a bit to match the original surface.
Let it harden some more and then Wet sand with 400 and the 600 Grit Wet/Dry paper. Use a rubber Squeegee or some sort of Block Sander. If you didn't get it just right you can add more Paste to complete the filling. Do a little at a time. It is not hard at all. Al W.
 
Al - you took the words right out of my mouth. Spectrum carries a paste patch kit color matched to your factory color. One word of advice. when done go over entire area past the patch with a light compound. This will restore the whole area and not leave a noticeable patch. You can get most of the fine sand paper from a local autobody paint supply. And go ahead and take it to 1000 or even 1200 grit it will buff out much easier. Then wax baby wax.

Mike
 
Mike- Try the section for Gelcoat repairs. I remember lengthy posts on this subject when I asked for advice.
 
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