I have two 8612s and one 7608. There are a few functions accessible past the main screen of the autopilot head, I'm not exactly sure all of them are available via the MFD AP screens so I would check that out before ditching the head.
Garmin VHF 315 and GHP Reactor 40 Hydraulic Autopilot Corepack - Reviews
- Thread starter rlynch03
- Start date
I wouldn't want everyone to think the Garmin AP implementation is perfect. There is one aspect of route following that I think is behind Raymarine's functionality. If one is navigating a route, but diverges for whatever reason, engaging the AP again might result in aggressive corrections to course, even sometimes a near-180. On Raymarine, as I remember, one could "Advance Waypoint" and/or "Restart XTE" to avoid this. Those functions don't exactly exist on Garmin.
The smoothest way I have found to get back on a route is, on the AP head, select "Menu", then "Resume Route". I think this is the only vital (to me) function on the AP head and not available on the MFD. This will work if you are pretty close to intended track. If not, you may get a wild course correction. To avoid this, one would select the closest waypoint ahead, then "Route To". This should take the boat there and then it will resume following the route. But, obviously clunky and requires pushing buttons on at least two different devices. The UI could and should be much better for actions associated with following routes.
I think the issue is that Garmin has been putting its eggs in the auto-guidance basket as opposed to traditional routes as the way of the future. But auto-guidance used to be quite a bit less flexible and portable than routes. I believe they just started calling an auto-route a "path". As of the most recent software upgrades, paths can be saved and transferred between Active Captain and the MFD so planning can be done off-line and that is a good thing from my perspective. I think I can now discard my existing routes and go exclusively with paths. In practice, paths can be "recalculated" in advance of re-engaging the AP to avoid aggressive corrections. The UI for this is better as well IMO.
Most of this is undocumented functionality, BTW, and discovered through experimentation or found on forums like this. If anyone has found better practices, please pass them on.
The smoothest way I have found to get back on a route is, on the AP head, select "Menu", then "Resume Route". I think this is the only vital (to me) function on the AP head and not available on the MFD. This will work if you are pretty close to intended track. If not, you may get a wild course correction. To avoid this, one would select the closest waypoint ahead, then "Route To". This should take the boat there and then it will resume following the route. But, obviously clunky and requires pushing buttons on at least two different devices. The UI could and should be much better for actions associated with following routes.
I think the issue is that Garmin has been putting its eggs in the auto-guidance basket as opposed to traditional routes as the way of the future. But auto-guidance used to be quite a bit less flexible and portable than routes. I believe they just started calling an auto-route a "path". As of the most recent software upgrades, paths can be saved and transferred between Active Captain and the MFD so planning can be done off-line and that is a good thing from my perspective. I think I can now discard my existing routes and go exclusively with paths. In practice, paths can be "recalculated" in advance of re-engaging the AP to avoid aggressive corrections. The UI for this is better as well IMO.
Most of this is undocumented functionality, BTW, and discovered through experimentation or found on forums like this. If anyone has found better practices, please pass them on.
There is a "Y" adapter of sorts where one connector is for the speaker, one for the handset, and one that that routes to the "black box".
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I looked it up and the speaker is available as a separate accessory. The installation guide says to connect the speaker directly to the VHF 315. Then the handset is connected to the speaker.
I did note that the speaker is listed as an accessory compatible with a number of traditional format Garmin vhf radios. Presumably one does not need to plug an handset into the speaker in that case.
The speaker has a connector that the Y adapter connects to. The Y adapter hooks to the VHF the handset and the speaker.
Yes that has bit me multiple times; one time when I deviated around a boat fishing my boat turned around halfway to the Bahamas and I think it was going back to the last waypoint at Cape Canaveral. I would rather it gently erase the XTE in the intended direction. There has got to be a better way to resume course.
- May 16, 2019
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Is the trouble when you are in AutoPilot Auto Guidance and have to deviate from the track and when the system reengages the boat will hard over to regain its course?
I have this trouble with the Raymarine.
I have this trouble with the Raymarine.
LMBoat
Well-Known Member
There is an option in Garmin to avoid a hard turn to return to course. I don't remember the menu sequence, but there is an option that says "When returning to course, start from previous course line or from the boat" or something similar. I too had some hard/abrupt turns to return to course, but this setting eliminates this. FYI, I replace my old Raymarine w/ Garmin 2 years ago. I have the wireless remove, smart pump, rudder sensor. Very happy with all. The only thing I think is odd is the controller is not touch screen....all the other new Garmin stuff is...what gives?
Jaybeaux
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- Jan 3, 2016
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Ok, my mind is swimming in details and questions after reading this thread! Gonna try and convice the Admiral to have this be the winter upgrade project!
I understand that @Riptide III and @Chief Ed and @alnav and @ttmott all have the Garmin Reactor 40 installed. @ttmott has the fancy one with the smart pump and the others utiliized the existing Raymarine pump. Do I have this about right?
If I were to use the existing "pump", what do I have to do to get the Shadow Drive plumbed into the existing "hydraulic" lines? Is there a tool to crimp new fittings on to install the Shadow Drive? Do you have to get them made up before hand with the dimensions? Details!
For those guys with the Sea Ray 44 ( I have a 420) where did you mount your components? Does the ECU get switched at the helm? @ttmott said he wired his up to the main panel, I assume in the engine room. Does it stay on all the time? Just looking for some of the nitty gritty.
I replaced my original Raymarine depth finder with a Garmin DST 800 last winter. I ran the NMEA backbone cable to the bilge so I have the abiltiiy to create drops in the engine room. I'm just looking for guidance on how to accomplish it.
If I hadn't mentioned, I was planning on using the existing Raymarine "pump". Any and all comments and advice you guys can give are GREATLY appreciated.
Jaybeaux
I understand that @Riptide III and @Chief Ed and @alnav and @ttmott all have the Garmin Reactor 40 installed. @ttmott has the fancy one with the smart pump and the others utiliized the existing Raymarine pump. Do I have this about right?
If I were to use the existing "pump", what do I have to do to get the Shadow Drive plumbed into the existing "hydraulic" lines? Is there a tool to crimp new fittings on to install the Shadow Drive? Do you have to get them made up before hand with the dimensions? Details!
For those guys with the Sea Ray 44 ( I have a 420) where did you mount your components? Does the ECU get switched at the helm? @ttmott said he wired his up to the main panel, I assume in the engine room. Does it stay on all the time? Just looking for some of the nitty gritty.
I replaced my original Raymarine depth finder with a Garmin DST 800 last winter. I ran the NMEA backbone cable to the bilge so I have the abiltiiy to create drops in the engine room. I'm just looking for guidance on how to accomplish it.
If I hadn't mentioned, I was planning on using the existing Raymarine "pump". Any and all comments and advice you guys can give are GREATLY appreciated.
Jaybeaux
No not wireless; there is an extension routed down from the helm.
There are differing models of the Reactor 40. Mine is the Hydraulic Corepack V2 with Smart Pump. There is another called the Reactor 40 Hydraulic that uses more of a standard AP pump but that requires another module called the ECU to drive the pump.
This may help https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/cOnTheWater-cAutopilots2-p1.html
Skybolt
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- Nov 11, 2014
- 6,429
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460 EC
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Alison Gears
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I actually have two Garmin 4212 MFD's now and a 7608 that fills a removed radio space. The 7608 serves the purpose of digital switching and engine data from my generator and AC status when on anchor. The 4212's are for charting and radar and do a great job of that, just very slow on updating, also no AP function, only data bar info. I am planning on two 1242+ or 1243 MFD's. I thought there was a difference between the 1242+ and the 1243? The 1243 doesn't have the added screen (nmea 2000) support of the 76xxXSV? or so I thought. I am planning on demoing these before I buy, might end up two 8612's at the end of the day. But was hoping to save the difference and get the AP with the MFD's. Probably a pipe dream but we'll see.
Irie308
Well-Known Member
- May 28, 2013
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- 2004 420 DB, GHS Hydraulic Lift
Garmin 8600/Garmin 1222 plus
AB Mares 10 VSX with 30 hp Tohatsu
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When I spoke with garmin about replacing my S2G and reusing the existing pump this is what they recommended.
Reactor 40 Mechanical/Solenoid/ Retrofit Core Pack - 010-00705-49
The contents of theis kit are:
Reactor 40 CCU (Course Computer Unit)
GHC™ 20 helm control display
ECU (Electronic Control Unit)
ECU power cable
Interconnect cable
Buzzer
NMEA 2000® drop cables (2 meters)
NMEA 2000 T-connectors
Male and female terminators
Documentation
Additionally:
To use this Reactor 40 with your existing pump, the current pump needs to be a reversable pump.customer
If you are using a non Garmin Pump with the Reactor 40, you will need a Actuator Power Cable PART NUMBER 010-11533-00 - $22.99
If you currently have a Third Party rudder sensor, you will need to purchase a Rudder sensor
Reactor 40 Mechanical/Solenoid/ Retrofit Core Pack - 010-00705-49
The contents of theis kit are:
Reactor 40 CCU (Course Computer Unit)
GHC™ 20 helm control display
ECU (Electronic Control Unit)
ECU power cable
Interconnect cable
Buzzer
NMEA 2000® drop cables (2 meters)
NMEA 2000 T-connectors
Male and female terminators
Documentation
Additionally:
To use this Reactor 40 with your existing pump, the current pump needs to be a reversable pump.customer
If you are using a non Garmin Pump with the Reactor 40, you will need a Actuator Power Cable PART NUMBER 010-11533-00 - $22.99
If you currently have a Third Party rudder sensor, you will need to purchase a Rudder sensor
Skybolt
Well-Known Member
- Nov 11, 2014
- 6,429
- Boat Info
- Reel Nauti
460 EC
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- Detroit 6v92TA
(Low profile's)
Alison Gears
Westerbeke
12.5kw Genset
Perfect. My 210 has only one station port. So adding the active speaker and GHS11 will be what I need. My VHF is in a real bad spot and too low and out of reach. So I am turning this into a black box of sorts to be more user friendly.
Skybolt
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- Nov 11, 2014
- 6,429
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460 EC
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Alison Gears
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Raymarine does this also. I re-start the route to stop this from happening and has been the least intrusive. But restarting the route means putting the AP back to auto from standby and accepting the turn or pressing auto twice. When ever I deviate I put the AP into standby, easier then jog. Garmin should work the same way I would think.
Riptide III
3D
- Dec 8, 2007
- 1,139
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- 1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
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- :
I too have the reactor 40 v2 core pack with smart pump. I had a friend who had access to a special crimper. The fittings were ordered online. On my boat the shadow drive is mounted under the helm wheel. The ECU is under the companion seat putting it centerline of the boat. The pump is to the right of the helm. If I recall correctly there is a third hose you have to install from the pump the the helm and installing the pump there made it a short run.
It is a good idea to install valves so you can bypass the pump if there is ever an issue.
To my recollection, the pump has power to it all the time, but it only draws power when the ECU (switched at the helm) turns it on.
Don’t forget about the rudder sensor in the engine room. I needed a longer wire to make the run to my ECU.
Skybolt
Well-Known Member
- Nov 11, 2014
- 6,429
- Boat Info
- Reel Nauti
460 EC
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- Detroit 6v92TA
(Low profile's)
Alison Gears
Westerbeke
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Probably a good idea to hook the pump to an accessible breaker at the helm. My current AP was wired the same way. The pump had power until the main battery switch was turned off. Valves are still a good idea to be able to service the system though.
Just a thought on the valves; look at self-sealing Quick Disconnects. With these, not only can you valve off the system by disconnecting the QD's but also can easily remove the pump without draining anything. The QD's you will find that SR installed on the Raymarine pump are perfect to use. No need to buy valves.
- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
Thanks everyone for tons of great/helpful feedback. My wife and I loved our Regal’s (x2) but the forum board had no where near the attendance and support Sea Ray does.
I placed the order for the Garmin VHF 315 and Reactor 40 Hydraulic Corepack w/SmartPump V2 and GHC 20 (includes Ghost Drive).
The VHF is in stock but the AP is back ordered.
I placed the order for the Garmin VHF 315 and Reactor 40 Hydraulic Corepack w/SmartPump V2 and GHC 20 (includes Ghost Drive).
The VHF is in stock but the AP is back ordered.
Likely gratuitous but thought I would mention you need to have steering fluid and the appropriate fill adapter available when you change out the pump; also be prepared to bleed the system. My installer forgot this but luckily I had the fluid and adapter available.
