Fresh Water Rinse Manifold '05 340Da

John,
Thanks for clarification. I was brainstorming this last weekend and had thought of pulling transom shower out and follow existing holes. Based on your confirmation, I think I'm on the right track as well. I'd love to see your pictures. If don't mind, take some in the engine room as well, just to see how you run the hoses.

Thanks,
Alex.
 
Up and coming. At work again tonight. Ran out of time to post pics earlier. Sleeping on boat tonight and heading to beach in AM. Pics tomorrow night.
 
John, it's been sometime but I finally got started building my flushing setup. I'll post some pictures later but I have a puzzling question. When running hoses from stern showere compartment down to the engine room, what did you use (if anything) before you ran the hoses through the hole? SR uses white threaded jualthrough fitting about 3" diameter. I went to WM and coudn't find anything that large.

Thx,
Alex.
 
I used one that I got at an actual marine store in town. Not quite 3", but big. It is threaded to secure it tight and I used 5200 to seal it in.
 
sure, why not. i do it every fall and use it to run the pink crap thru the system
 
AKBASSKING said:
Question:

Can these systems be used to supply cooling water (closed system) when "dry docked" so you can run your engines?:huh:
Click to expand...

It wouldn't technically be a closed system, but it would work fine. The water from the hose exhausts out of the boat, unless you mean just to fill the engine with a solution from a container and then shut it down.
 
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Hampton said:
It wouldn't technically be a closed system. The water from the hose exhausts out of the boat, unless you mean just to fill the engine with a solution from a container and then shut it down.
Click to expand...

I have a "closed" system but If I hook up a connection as discribed in this thread, I should be able to run my engines while I am dry docked.
 
rondds said:
sure, why not. i do it every fall and use it to run the pink crap thru the system
Click to expand...

I was also planning to use my setup during winterizing process, just keep the seacocks closed :grin:.
 
ok, this is getting depressing (using the "W" word in july)

winterization
 
Here's some pictures of my setup in the stern locker:

looking from the right hand side, the first fitting for fresh water intake, second (virtical)
is for fresh water connection to the main water supply for the boat, first valve is for starboard engine, second valve for port engine and the third (the horizontal on the left hand side) is the genny valve.
07-21-08-097.jpg


07-21-08-095.jpg


07-21-08-096.jpg
 
alex
that is awesome! so you would connect a hose to the far right horizontal fitting? and the second vertical fitting (from the right) is to draw from the fresh water tank if you so desired?

where did you get those ball valves? are they natural gas fittings? are they brass or bronze? the T's look bronze and the fittings look brass. Frank W will have a FIT if that is correct!

but me LIKEY! you can, if you choose, run two things at the same time if the flow is adequate. is this all in your lazarette? if so, i guess you cannot shut the seacock as you simultaneously turn on the ball valve to provide fresh water to the engine (s).
 
rondds said:
alex
that is awesome! so you would connect a hose to the far right horizontal fitting? and the second vertical fitting (from the right) is to draw from the fresh water tank if you so desired?

where did you get those ball valves? are they natural gas fittings? are they brass or bronze? the T's look bronze and the fittings look brass. Frank W will have a FIT if that is correct!

but me LIKEY! you can, if you choose, run two things at the same time if the flow is adequate. is this all in your lazarette? if so, i guess you cannot shut the seacock as you simultaneously turn on the ball valve to provide fresh water to the engine (s).
Click to expand...

Thanks Ron,
Yes, the hose from the dock would be connected to the faar right (horizontal fitting). This will supply the flow trhough the whole assembly. I'm planning to connect the second from the right to the valve (pressure redusor) where I now have the dock hose connected (sorry i don't know the proper terms for all the components).

All fittings I picked up from Lowes. They're all brass fittings and valve are brass as well. I hate plastic stuff, but man was I surprized at the cash register :wow:. I first picked up al kinds of elbos and was going to make it even nicer, but after getting the bill I simplified my version.
 
i prefer brass to plastic as well - brass in salt is not a great thing but theoretically, there will never be any salt water in this manifold. curious about the use of the gas valves. i've never seen that before in a water application. usually it's the big seacock type valves. i guess if it holds gas it'll hold water. nice compact setup.
 
rondds said:
is this all in your lazarette? if so, i guess you cannot shut the seacock as you simultaneously turn on the ball valve to provide fresh water to the engine (s).
Click to expand...

I had to run, so my answer was kind of in the rush.

The setup is in my transom locker. Based on the test John (Hampton) did, the pressure from city water overpowers the seacocks, so there should be no need to close them. I will know how mine works only after I complete the installation and do some testing. But, I think it should be fine.
 
rondds said:
i prefer brass to plastic as well - brass in salt is not a great thing but theoretically, there will never be any salt water in this manifold. curious about the use of the gas valves. i've never seen that before in a water application. usually it's the big seacock type valves. i guess if it holds gas it'll hold water. nice compact setup.
Click to expand...

Based on what I was told those are the water valve, they only look like gas valves. Aside from Lowes staff (this guy sounded like he knew few things about this) my neighbor couple slips from me is a plumber and he didn't mention anything about those being gas valves. He said they should be fine. I was going to use the same hose you had posted earlier, but I got tired running around after different parts (you know how it is with these projects, there are too many components and since I do this for the first time it’s impossible to plan without missing couple of things), so I got the hose (the one they use for water heaters) from Lowes as well. I figure that no metter what these will work much better than any garden hose, which is used in standard flushing process for my engines. Mine have flushing kit installed with special type of quick connect fitting that has check valve inside. For now, I will leave this part as-is, not to mess the factory installation, and I will run my hoses to the point of connecting to those fittings. This in a way will serve as my back out procedure, in case if I don't like something, I could just unplug the hoses from the engine quick connect and it's like it was never there as a permanent installation. I still weren’t able to get the plastic through-hall 3” fitting for the spot where I run the hoses to the engine room. But, I got some alternative and will see how it works. I went to Lockwood Boat Works in south Amboy and they only had bronze type for $200. WM also had only much smaller size of plastic fitting 1" or so. I need to run 3 hoses (2 engines and genny) through that hall.

As I get closer to completion I'll post more pictures. But, you're more than welcome to see it in when we meet next time.
 
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This is a great project I too( like many others) wanted to flushing simpler. I got the whole idea but just one point i read that you don't have to shut the seacocks before the strainers because the city water pressure is enough to stop drawing from under the boat and us the flushing system? Addtionally I did something similiar for the a/c to clean out the condenser. I have heard that "people" while at a transient dock (no water cost) run city water through there a/c all the time. I disagree with the waste of water but I cannot stop others.
 
It's more a matter of flow than pressure. 2 hoses works well for this. Patent pending, now, by the way (doesn't stop anyone from making their own).
 
Ron,
I stay incorrect. I was at lowes today and checked the labels. Thy hve them as gas valves. But, it didn't say that on the tag on the actual valves. They were in the section together with all water valves.
 
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