Flybridge Air Conditioning

[Flytrade]

I'm looking to purchase a 48 Sedan Bridge, and it has air conditioning in the flybridge. I'm just wondering how effective this can be when the entire flybridge is surrounded be eisenglass. I would think there would be plenty of places to let in ambient (hot) air. Am I wrong?

 

[sbw1]

32,000 BTUs does a good job of cooling a 35 open with a hardtop. I've seen this set up maintain 68 degrees during the heat of the day in Leland, MI when it is 90 degrees. The 35 has all glass around the cockpit, a hard top and white drop curtain. How many BTUs are in your boat? Does a drop curtain make the space smaller and therefore easier to cool? Color of the canvas? Cooling output, hardtop, canvas color and size of space all influence the result.

 

[FootballFan]

Most important question is where are you cruising.

North east versus Florida keys in July.

My experience with SR fly bridge AC is probably a 10 to 15 degree cooling, very dependent on humidity.

I am used to the FL climate. One tip, turn it on the night before, cool down the bridge over night. Windows will have condensation the next morning, knock that off with the hose. Helps a lot.

 

[Brent Nutting]

Our 480DB has the flybridge air. It is very helpful for us up here in Michigan. It still gets pretty hot in the front bench seats when people sit in direct sunlight, but when I have cruised without it (had to shut it off due to a clogged strainer for the genny), I noticed the difference and caused me to stop, unclog the strainer so I could fire up the genny and run the air again. This was in August in Michigan, about 90 degrees outside.

 

[bbwhitejr]

I think where you boat has everything to do with it. Have a friend that had a 44DB with soft tops and full bridge enclosure and AC on the bridge. If it was blowing on you, it felt great. Otherwise, it was worse than the wind blowing on you with the windows rolled up. In August in GA/FL, even a hardtop with the eisenglas enclosure would be very hot I think. The compressor would never cut off.

We made it through this summer with the bridge enclosure in place and windows rolled up. Just had seat covers made and have a helm cover so next summer we can remove the bridge enclosure and leave it off all summer....

Bennett

 

[Flytrade]

Thanks for all the info. I live in FL, so I'll give it a try, but I'm not very hopeful. We'll see how well I can keep the ambient air out.

 

[sbw1]

Thanks for all the info. I live in FL, so I'll give it a try, but I'm not very hopeful. We'll see how well I can keep the ambient air out.

A/C will surely be better than nothing. I know you have hot weather down there but 90 degree days in Michigan with dew points in the high 60s are pretty uncomfortable too. Our helm can be down right cold at times and your sun glasses fog up when you step outside. We keep are helm open most of the time, but when it is hot and buggie or rainy, the drop curtain is installed. It can make a big difference in your boating experience.

 

[Gimme Time]

We boat most of the time on the Chesapeake Bay Area and by late summer we’re pumping close to 90 degree water through the AC systems on board. Our bridge has the 24,000btu or two ton unit and it diffidently makes a difference. AC is alway on when the gen set is running and if on shore power as well so the precool before getting underway makes a big difference. Remember cold air falls & warm air rises so keeping the bridge doorway closed helps tremendously.

In addition the grilles on the front of the helm should be pointing up by either pulling the grilles out and reversing them or readjusting the louvre blades. The four round diffusers on the helm side air directed up and then later underway get adjusted onto the captains chair.

You will not ever have an air tight esinglass enclosure so you will always be loosing some out the enclosure. In reality we’re operating a perfect green house with nothing more than two layers of uninsulated fiberglass above you. Using some light colored mesh screen to block some of the direct sun light where can does make some diffybut very little unless it is mounted on the outside of the esinglass and I’ve not seen one done very well at all. Any interior screening decrease some of the radiant heat gain but since its inside the envelope the heat is in the space.

Ideally a second 12-18,000 BTU unit would be the perfect setup as you’d then have three capacity for cooling. Stage one would be the smaller unit on. Stage two would be the smaller on off andtge primary unit 24-28,000 btu on if you’ve already replace your unit with the newest largest size 120 volt AC. Third stage would be both units on.

That’s the only way you’ll fully meet 95% of the cooling load needs on 90 degree plus weather.