flushing sterndrive

[capz]

Can anyone recommend a good way to flush an I/O while still in the water? I saw the Perko Flushpro but this looks like it's built for inboards. Any custom setups with pics?

 

[Aquia185]

capz... saw this on Ship Shape, looked like a good quick way to flush while in the water.

http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/na/en-us/partsservice/accessories+for+leisure+boats/neutra-salt.htm

 

[capz]

I should have specified I have a merc. Just added that to my sig. Did a quick search for Neutra-Salt. It's usually followed by (not available with Mercruiser......)

 

[Aquia185]

Capz... I am a newbie to this stuff, so ignore me if I am wrong, but I am pretty sure this kit is for any I/O. They showed the installation on ship shape.

 

[Turtlesboat]

I've been looking at the Perko flush-pro. looks like a pretty easy install and with a little hose work, I bet one could rig a hook up from the fresh water intake in the transom, turn a valve mounted somewhere and divert the fresh water into the perko and through the engines. anyone tried the perko?

 

[capz]

From the look of the volvo unit, there doesn't seem to be anything complicated, just hoses. I wonder how many gallons/season you'll need. It's about the same price as the Flushpro, formerly Guardian seen here
http://superflushsystems.com/Web_400.htm

They're two totally different means of flushing. Which method is better? Beats me.

 

[Aquia185]

From the look of the volvo unit, there doesn't seem to be anything complicated, just hoses. I wonder how many gallons/season you'll need. It's about the same price as the Flushpro, formerly Guardian seen here
http://superflushsystems.com/Web_400.htm

They're two totally different means of flushing. Which method is better? Beats me.

Installation looked pretty easy. A switch at the dash activated the system. If I remember correctly I believe you got about 15 flushes before having to refill the tank. It was a pretty slick setup.

 

[capz]

I try to take my boat out 3 or 4 days/week in the spring and summer. So that's about 1 gallon/month at $40/gal. A little pricey. Ideally, I'd like to be able to rinse with freshwater after every trip as well as treat the system with salt-dissolving chemical (or whatever it does :huh: ) maybe once a week to get rid of the residue. $500 to get many more years out of your manifold/risers might be a good investment. Then again, another few hundred gets you a fresh water cooling system.
What does B.O.A.T stand for? Break Out Another Thousand

 

[boatrboy]

I made a custom kit using bronze components. I evaluated the Perko unit, but is is plastic and I was not willing to chance having a plastic bodied unit in-line with my raw water. I have a Bravo 3 and yes, my raw water pump is plastic, but it is a proven mercruiser item for me. The other thing I did not like about the Perko is how do you know that the flapper valve actually stopped all the raw water from flowing?

I have "tee-ed" my fresh water line to supply fresh water to my valve system. When I hook up to dock water, this also provides water to my flush system. I have installed 1 1/4" valve in-line with the raw water inlet to my water pump. I have another valve (3/4") for fresh water.

So to operate -
1) I hook up the dock fresh water in my locker
2) With engine running, I jump down into bilge
3) open lever for fresh water to flow, close lever for raw water.
4) run for approx 10 min. shut off motor and change valve positions.

This allows only fresh water to sit in my engine until I run her :thumbsup:

Let me know if you want pics.

Mark

 

[Turtlesboat]

this is the one i've been looking at. looks a bit simpler.

http://boatpartsexpress.com/shopexd.asp?id=2044

 

[Turtlesboat]

I made a custom kit using bronze components. I evaluated the Perko unit, but is is plastic and I was not willing to chance having a plastic bodied unit in-line with my raw water. I have a Bravo 3 and yes, my raw water pump is plastic, but it is a proven mercruiser item for me. The other thing I did not like about the Perko is how do you know that the flapper valve actually stopped all the raw water from flowing?

I have "tee-ed" my fresh water line to supply fresh water to my valve system. When I hook up to dock water, this also provides water to my flush system. I have installed 1 1/4" valve in-line with the raw water inlet to my water pump. I have another valve (3/4") for fresh water.

So to operate -
1) I hook up the dock fresh water in my locker
2) With engine running, I jump down into bilge
3) open lever for fresh water to flow, close lever for raw water.
4) run for approx 10 min. shut off motor and change valve positions.

This allows only fresh water to sit in my engine until I run her :thumbsup:

Let me know if you want pics.

Mark

heck yeah, post some pics. I thought about doing something like this too. no worries about if the plunger valve is working. two tee's, one for each engine, seems simple and effective.

 

[boatrboy]

[quote="TurtleTone
heck yeah, post some pics. I thought about doing something like this too. no worries about if the plunger valve is working. two tee's, one for each engine, seems simple and effective.[/quote]

The unit you posted is the one I evaluated. The valve I referred to is the rubber flapper in the plastic body. I do have some good pics of the install I will post after I shrink the photos tomorrow..

 

[capz]

mark, is your T fitting in place before the seawater pump or in between the thermostat and circulating pump (mounted on the front of the engine)? We have the same boat and engine. I'd love to see those pics if you get the chance.
Just wondering, do you think this setup puts any strain on the outdrive pump due to back pressure? The water from the drive to the fitting has no place to go. I really don't know how the outdrive pump works, just thinking.
You could take it a step further and put a reservoir with a check valve and maybe a hand pump to dispense the Salt-Away formula while flushing.

 

[boatrboy]

Here it is...

I will post a pic of the unit prior to fitting it under the starboard manifold. posted 3/12

Hope this helps.

 

[Turtlesboat]

How do you shut off the feed from the raw water? is the raw water coming in from one end, fresh water coming in from the other end and two valves to control which goes into the engine? Does it feed into the water pump? thanks

 

[boatrboy]

OK to clarify -

The fitting on the left is the raw water inlet that comes from the outdrive. This is the 1 1/4 hose that goes from the outdrive to the raw water pump on the engine. I have cut that hose and attached it to the left fitting. Notice the next thing is the shut-off valve for the raw water.
Next the water flows out the tee (top of the pic). I now attached the interrupted hose from the raw water pump to this fitting after cutting about 8" out of it. So with the raw water valve open, water takes a little zig-zag then to the pump.
The valve on the right is where the fresh water enters. So to flush I have to shut the left valve and open the right.

I hope this explains it better. Let me know if you have questions.

Mark

 

[capz]

Mark great job. Very innovative. The only thing I don't get is the 4 way fitting where the blue and clear tube intersect. I'm picturing only needing a 3 way connector there.
So the water comes in at the transom inlet, down the blue tube to the first T fitting (where it branches off towards the head sink and galley). After the T fitting it reaches the 4way connector (where the water will flow down the clear tube to the brass valves as well as continue down the blue tube to the freshwater pump/water tank/water heater)? Where's the clear tube going at the top of picture 3? I think I'm picturing it wrong :smt017

 

[boatrboy]

Actually, the clear tube goes to the locker and it has replaced the original blue tube that your boat has now. This tube comes from the water regulator in the locker. It originally connected to a plastic tee exactly where my brass one is now and the fresh water went to the left (toward galley sinks as you suspected) and to the right towards the hot water heater.

So, my clear tube supplies water to the original plastic tee (shown in the pic) and to my valve under the manifold. I had to make a special fitting to tie into the original plastic tee.

The reason I replaced the original blue tube from the regulator to the tee in the photo was because the clear tube has a larger diameter and I was worried about restricting flow when I designed this. The truth is, the blue tube would work just fine, oh well.

Hope that helps,

Mark

 

[capz]

Well I found my next weekend project after my heater installation. for the bronze valves, I'm trying to find one with a single lever to open and close both outlets. Also I'd like to come up with a way to add a reservoir to dispense the Salt-Away formula. Thanks Mark.

Bob

 

[Turtlesboat]

I wonder if you could use one of those garden pesticide dohickies that attach to a hose? attach the fresh water hose to one of those filled with solution and then somehow attach that to the inlet.