Flush-mountCockpit Table Base

[gengiant]

Hi all,

I am looking to add a removable cockpit table to my 270DA and am considering a couple of mounting options. Doing a little research I found 2 styles of flush-mount bases, both made by Garelick.

The first one requires one to cut a 4" hole into the cockpit floor (in my case that would be the engine hatch). The base is then inserted into this hole. The base itself is then fastened to the hatch via a larger ring at the top of the base. This outside mounting rig then sits on top of the cockpit floor, protruding a little more than 1/4" above the floor. The table post is then simply inserted into the base
http://www.garelick.com/product.php?pnumber=75350

Alternatively, Garelick also makes a quick-release system http://www.garelick.com/product.php?pnumber=75640
in which a ring is mounted to the surface of the cockpit floor without the need to cut a recessed hole into the floor itself. The mounting ring then has a matching base attached to the table post itself, which then "snaps" to the base ring mounted to the cockpit floor.

I was wondering if anyone was familiar with either of these systems and could give me some hints to the pros and/or cons of either?

Thanks!

 

[boatmailster]

http://www.garelick.com/product.php?pnumber=75350
that what sea ray uses on their boats
pros: good quality, flat with floor
cons: need to cut hole

plastic one
pros: no need for hole (but will leave screw holes when removed),
possibly cheaper than aluminum one
cons:won't last longer than metal one, I hope those levers will last without breaking to quick
if you decide for "metal version" remember to seal under floor base to prevent water from going to engine compartment a soaking into sound shield foam

 

[Four Suns]

I have the flush mount one (factory installed) on the bridge. You will note that the installation instructions calls for "wood screws". The first week I had my 480 and the first time I got in some decent waves, the table pulled the screws right out of the floor and the table fell over. The floor of the bridge on the 480 is fiberglass with a honeycomb core and the wood screws just penetrated the top layer of fiberglass... well... that don't work. Sea Ray fixed it once, broke off again, they fixed a second time and it has been solid since.

That mount, IMO, needs to be backplated and bolted and not mounted with wood screws into thin fiberglass. If it can't be backplated, then it needs long screws in something that can hold it. People will lean on tables and the floor should not flex when they do. It's a nice product but you need to make sure the floor can handle it.

 

[gengiant]

I have the flush mount one (factory installed) on the bridge. You will note that the installation instructions calls for "wood screws". The first week I had my 480 and the first time I got in some decent waves, the table pulled the screws right out of the floor and the table fell over. The floor of the bridge on the 480 is fiberglass with a honeycomb core and the wood screws just penetrated the top layer of fiberglass... well... that don't work. Sea Ray fixed it once, broke off again, they fixed a second time and it has been solid since.

That mount, IMO, needs to be backplated and bolted and not mounted with wood screws into thin fiberglass. If it can't be backplated, then it needs long screws in something that can hold it. People will lean on tables and the floor should not flex when they do. It's a nice product but you need to make sure the floor can handle it.

Thanks for the input! :thumbsup: I am leaning towards the recessed version which seems to be standard Sea Ray issue. Based on the above comments I will look at either back-plating the mount with a metal ring I can cut out of some heavy-gage aluminum, or at minimum I will through-bolt every screw and back each of them with a large washer.

 

[wkearney99]

If you through-bolt make SURE you seal up the holes going through the cored decking. I find it's best to drill the holes slightly oversize, fill them with epoxy and then re-drill through that. This gives you a sealed epoxy "sleeve" going through the cored decking. That way if the seal up around the base does ever leak it won't be using those through holes to wick water into the core and destroy it.

 

[gengiant]

If you through-bolt make SURE you seal up the holes going through the cored decking. I find it's best to drill the holes slightly oversize, fill them with epoxy and then re-drill through that. This gives you a sealed epoxy "sleeve" going through the cored decking. That way if the seal up around the base does ever leak it won't be using those through holes to wick water into the core and destroy it.

wkearney99,

No worries! the holes will definitely be well sealed. But it isn't as critical as you might think. The way the '94 270DA is layed out, the only place to mount that cockpit table in the back is through on of the engine bay covers. Yes, I am concerned about water intrusion - but less so because of water intrusion into the hatch cover material than water intrusion into the engine bay. But even that would be absolutely minimal through sealed screw holes with an additional bead of sealant placed all around the base flange of the table mount.

 

[boatmailster]

I have the flush mount one (factory installed) on the bridge. You will note that the installation instructions calls for "wood screws". The first week I had my 480 and the first time I got in some decent waves, the table pulled the screws right out of the floor and the table fell over. The floor of the bridge on the 480 is fiberglass with a honeycomb core and the wood screws just penetrated the top layer of fiberglass... well... that don't work. Sea Ray fixed it once, broke off again, they fixed a second time and it has been solid since.

That mount, IMO, needs to be backplated and bolted and not mounted with wood screws into thin fiberglass. If it can't be backplated, then it needs long screws in something that can hold it. People will lean on tables and the floor should not flex when they do. It's a nice product but you need to make sure the floor can handle it.

no need for bolts use 5200 under base and will never break again

 

[fwebster]

I built out cockpit table and we went another direction........I did not want the cockpit to be confined to one seating and use configuration so I made the base portable. We can move or remove the table as needed and there is no hole or screws to deal with. The teak base is weighted with about 20 lbs of lead so it can't tip over. Look for a seat base; not a table base.......Manufacturer is Todd.

 

[gengiant]

I built out cockpit table and we went another direction........I did not want the cockpit to be confined to one seating and use configuration so I made the base portable. We can move or remove the table as needed and there is no hole or screws to deal with. The teak base is weighted with about 20 lbs of lead so it can't tip over. Look for a seat base; not a table base.......Manufacturer is Todd.

fwebster,

That is a beautiful table you have there! :thumbsup: I am sure that in your cockpit a 'changeable' configuration is desirable, considering that your space must be substantially larger than what I have on a 27' Sundancer with only an 8.5' beam. We currently utilize a portable aluminum rollup table that of course can be moved wherever necessary. At times we wonder if it is really worth spending the $200 on a new table (w/base) in addition to get the carpet modified to account for the table mount. Maybe we should give this whole thing some more thought? :smt017

 

[osd9]

That's really Frank's "nest" for his rear facing Lookout....it also doubles as a cockpit table.... :grin:

 

[GauchoMark]

no need for bolts use 5200 under base and will never break again

So, similar problem, my 270 SDA dining area base (below deck) has come loose. I removed the carpet and saw that it has been repaired once by turning the base to split the difference between the holes. When I first looked at it I was also wondering why they didn't just glue it. Is the 5200 strong enough to hold it securely? I was thinking that I would just put down the 5200, put the screws back in to hold it a little until it sets, then be done with it.