Fix my Windlass, win a case of beer! (can I do that???)

[Jerzey Jeff]

I've read a lot of windlass threads. I'm still stumped on why our Sea Ray 2000 290 Amberjack windlass (Lofrans Progress 1) has stopped working.
The facts:
1. I did not know I was supposed to tie off the chain to the cleat to take pressure off the windlass. And we were pulled along in the wind several times, causing stress for both us and the windlass.
2. The windlass motor "slowly" died. whu-whu-whu-whu-whu......whu-whu......whuh. (while attempting to bring it in).
3. The control box is still clicking from helm switch, and nothing from up/down foot controls.
4. I took control box apart. Sanded the contacts, but it was in mint condition.
5. The red, round, 105A breaker in the DC breaker panel - port side, cockpit wall (next to battery switches) seems to be OK, as (like any trained monkey) I pushed it in an effort to reset in case it had tripped.
6. 3 batteries on board - 13.3, 13.4, 13.5 DC volts. They fire up engines no sweat. (multimeter works)
6. If there is an additional breaker or fuse in the circuitry, it is not apparent, and not shown on the wiring diagram. Not in the engine room, nor in the anchor locker. I just can't find it if it exists.
7. I confirmed continuity on the 3 or four connections from windlass motor to control box that I could actually reach (you need to be a contortionist to get in that locker)
8. Most important fact is that I'm not electrically inclined.
Anyone???



Not sure how to attach photos yet. Will work on that.

Jerzey Jeff

 

[NotHerDecision]

Jeff. First stick your head in the anchor locker and make sure all the wires are attached to the motor. 2nd check all the wires going to the control, mine is also in the anchor locker. 3rd take the motor off the windlass from the anchor locker and take it to an alternator shop and have it tested/rebuilt. If it tests fine then it's the control box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Black Valkyrie]

You'll need a meter and some wire to jump some connections to test this.

1) Measure between the points highlighted in RED to ensure you have 12 volts.

2) Using a jumper wire test the points in GREEN for continuity to ground (negative)

3) Using a jumper wire jump the points highlighted in blue

4) Using a jumper wire jump the points highlighted in yellow.

Make sure your jumper wire is minimum 12 gauge and also remember you are just bridging the connections briefly. Touching the jumper wire should make the windlass turn one way or another. Hold the jumper wire on too long and it will melt.

 

[Todd320]

On my 07 320, there is a panel in the bilge like the image below, 10 is a magnetic solenoid to the windlass. It tripped on me one day and I did not realize it. I kept turning the windlass on (pushing up button), and it kept grinding, eventually got slower and slower, then stopped. The 'stopped' was when it tripped that solenoid and it would just click each time I pushed up/down button.

Brown Eyed Girl - 2007 Sea Ray 320 Sundancer, 350 MAG MPI V-drive

 

[JimFromMD]

On my 07 320, there is a panel in the bilge like the image below, 10 is a magnetic solenoid to the windlass. It tripped on me one day and I did not realize it. I kept turning the windlass on (pushing up button), and it kept grinding, eventually got slower and slower, then stopped. The 'stopped' was when it tripped that solenoid and it would just click each time I pushed up/down button.

Brown Eyed Girl - 2007 Sea Ray 320 Sundancer, 350 MAG MPI V-drive

For whatever reason Todd320's photo is blocked on my browser, but here is another photo of mine.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/58479-jammed-windlass?p=657523#post657523

 

[Jerzey Jeff]

Gosh, I need to thank you guys for responding in an effort to help out a total stranger. Very thoughtful of you.
1. All wires are attached to motor, check
2. all wires going from motor to control box (that I can reach) show continuity.
3. Testing/jumping/measuring points with a piece of wire between the anchor motor, battery and breaker seem to be beyond my scope of ability. Long wires, my novice skill with the multimeter, etc just might be too much for me.
4. Windlass removal should be left to a Marine Max guy, though they are expensive.
5. I wish I had a bilge set up like your 07 320, but mine does not look like that. BUT WHAT IS THE BOX THAT CONCEALS 6, 10, 11, AND 12 ON YOUR DIAGRAM??? I JUST CAN NOT FIND A BREAKER IN THE CIRCUITRY!!!!!

So, I'm still stuck. But again, I appreciate the input. I'll have MM take a shot at it. Thanks!

Jerzey Jeff

 

[Black Valkyrie]

Uh. Just follow the instructions I posted this is pretty straight forward troubleshooting. I even posted in color for you!

 

[Mittens]

you tie off the line?

I and everyone I have ever seen.

Turn on main power, lower anchor, once set and ahppy with location, Turn main power off. No tieing off.... anchor line never moves?

 

[CliffA]

you tie off the line?

I and everyone I have ever seen.

Turn on main power, lower anchor, once set and ahppy with location, Turn main power off. No tieing off.... anchor line never moves?

this works OK if you are on an inland lake that does not have much movement to the water.....but even on a lake if you encounter a storm while anchored the movement of the boat could be enough to put enough stress on the windlass and/or the deck to do damage.....

I always tie my rode off when we anchor just to be safe even though we boat on a lake.....takes 15 seconds and may save the cost and time of a windlass repair or deck repair around the windlass or the chute....it is not unheard of where chutes can get bent if the rode is not tied off and the boat rocks significantly.....

cliff

 

[Mittens]

so we are saying tie the rope to the cleat up there to releave any pulling on from the anchor on the windless its self, and its on the cleat. Interesting. will keep that in mind if staying out in big storms...

Wonder how that works with you have solid chain.. tieing to a clean with chain would suck on all parts ha.

 

[CliffA]

so we are saying tie the rope to the cleat up there to releave any pulling on from the anchor on the windless its self, and its on the cleat. Interesting. will keep that in mind if staying out in big storms...

Wonder how that works with you have solid chain.. tieing to a clean with chain would suck on all parts ha.

guys with chains use a clip to secure the chain to the cleat.....

even wakes from other boats can rock the boat pretty good while you are on the hook......remember your windlass and the bedding around it is 15 years old.....why chance a repair to the windlass or a crack in the bedding which can cause the rain and wash water to possibly wet the deck core?

cliff

 

[BillK2632]

I always cleated my anchor rode, never let the windless hold it. Another thing, when retrieving the anchor with your windless, don't use the windless to "pull" the boat to the anchor, drive the boat up on the anchor while taking in the rode. Even on a calm lake, it is surprising how much pull even a small boat can put on the anchor and gear. If you have an all chain rode, you need a snubber, basically a piece of rope used to take the strain off the chain. It allows you to cleat the rode, usually fashioned like a bridle form the two front cleats with a hook or a rolling hitch to connect it to the chain.

 

[Mittens]

well weather the cleat takes the beating or the motor its self I can see, but the davit is still taking the most abuse/ pull and there is othing to do about that.. the rope has to go through that.

 

[CliffA]

well weather the cleat takes the beating or the motor its self I can see, but the davit is still taking the most abuse/ pull and there is othing to do about that.. the rope has to go through that.

at the end of the day its your boat and your rules....we are just throwing out suggestions.....but there is a reason the Sea Ray engineers decided to install a cleat right beside the windlass.....if they didn't think it was needed it wouldn't be there....

cliff

 

[Mittens]

Oh no I agree there is a cleat for a reason, not debating that. just have not seen anyone use it in all my years, maybe its just lasyness.

My point was just that the davit is being abused for sure.

 

[rcknecht]

I use one of those solid rubber bungees on my all chain rode... It gives a little relief to my windless... Regarding the original question... I have a 90 amp fuse in my bilge for the anchor windless... I blew the fuse in a storm and could not get my anchor up... Alexf, from CSR, was tied up with me at that time, and he cut a piece of wire, and we jumped the fuse... When I got home I bought a new fuse on e-bay... There were two fuses in my windless set up... The main fuse in the bilge (90 amp) and a control fuse, I believe that was a 5 or 10 amp small fuse... In my case only the main fuse blew...