First oil change - Cat 3116

[Boca_Vincent]

Hello all. Getting ready to undertake this task for the first time on my new to me '99 370 EC.
I will probably be hitting you guys up for tips often in the coming weeks, as I just brought her home last month. Top of the list is past due on fluids/ filters... so here I go.
I referenced already the previous threads on this topic including the one from Jul 2016 which seems to cover it pretty well. My questions are related to what may be specific to my boat.
I have read comments about having to reach around the engine to get to the filters by some. This is not the case for me as both filters on each engine are located center-line. Is this a modification? Which brings up my more intriguing question as to why there are 2 different model oil filters being used? There is noticeably less clearance under the port side filter, which currently has the 1R-714 high efficiency. As you can see in the pic, the starboard side has the large 1R-0739 filter. Does this seem standard to you guys? And would you advise to continue using the same on both? I didn't take an exact measurement, but it looks like the larger filter might fit on the port side. Just wondering if someone used a smaller filter because it was easier. Or, (I believe I read in another post) the larger filters are really for truck use and that it should not be used on a boat.
Getting all my supplies together this weekend. BOW which about 15 mins away has the oil at what looks to be a pretty good price... just ordered, in stock.
https://www.boatownerswarehouse.com/product_p/310939.htm

They don't stock the filters, but looks like Amazon does.
I have the Westerbeke genny and plan on using the same oil.
I still need find & read the instructions on the oil changing pump. So any tips on using that are appreciated. I believe it is the Groco, based on the SR parts list book.
Also, I have brand new air filters that just came in from Walker. I know it looks pretty bad, and that's the better of the 2!
Thanks in advance.
Vince

 

[Todd320]

I know on Volvo engines each of the 2 filters is different and you must use the one specified by the manufacturer for each.

 

[Carpediem44DB]

To be safe I would defer to the Cat's manual. Often filters are offered in different sizes as 'heavy duty' but I see no reason to stray from OEM on a recreational boat. Just avoid going with an off brand to save some dough and expose yourself to a possible headache down the road. If you do your seasonal service regularly you will be fine. Just in case you are new to engine MX just remember one thing when it comes to filters, TIGHTER IS NOT BETTER!!!! Adhere to the instructions when installing the filters both oil and fuel. Lube the rubber gasket and hand tighten 1/4 or at most 1/2 turn once the sealing surfaces touch depending on the filter. If you over tighten, you will pay hell removing it the next time and risk blowing out the seal and pumping your oil into the bilge. I've seen both.
Have fun with that
Carpe Diem

 

[fwebster]

Cat offers multiple filter locations as a ordering option for a bit of extra cost. Sea Ray ordered the option you have on larger and more expensive boats where the typical owner doesn't want have to crawl being the engines to service them. On your boat access is ok on the back side off the stbd engine, but it is a difficult spot to access.

The 3116 was installed in everything from dump trucks, to school buses to road graders so there are about 6 different filters for them. This is one reason you can't just order filters from a new source for 3116's. The filter depth is different, the diameter may be different the mounting thread may be different. Besides, you should never used an aftermarket filter for any Caterpillar application. Cat filters are far superior, they are designed to properly filter your fuel and oil for Caterpillar engines and, believe it or not, they are usually cheaper than well known aftermarket filters. A tip is to buy the Cat filters from a Cat dealer whose primary business is construction equipment..they are located off the water and don't usually sell to the recreational or yacht market.

On the oil filter size, the short oil filter is easy to handle and unless you run over 150 hours per oil change, they are adequate. If you charter or fish your boat and run over 200 hours, you may need to use the longer filter. Just be sure the filter can is stamped "Advanced-High Efficiency".

 

[Boca_Vincent]

CD- thanks for the tip on tightening. I knew not to use the wrench on it but wasn't sure how much pressure to put by hand.
FW - thank you for the insight on the build and filters. Also, I found that on the CAT parts site you can enter your serial # and it gives you matches. The smaller "Advanced-High Efficiency" you said is a match for both, so that's what I will use on the starboard as well, and do away with the long one. I thought the prices were decent, so I just ordered while on there. $14 for oil and $16 for the fuel each with their discount code, so I doubled up and got an extra set for each engine. I went to BOW to pick up the oil order and saw the filters there on the shelf were $31 each!
Also, I am starting your fuel detox regimen. I just ordered all those supplies. There seems to be some significant algae issues. Thanks for that article.
Vince

 

[dtfeld]

Cat Filters actually have tightening directions on them and marking to make it easy to do exactly 1/4 turn.

Cat filters and parts are economical and easy to get. Their online system usually finds the right part. Your engine serial number will get you the right part 99% of the time. If unsure, cat your local CAT dealer.

https://parts.cat.com/en/catcorp

 

[GnrlPatton]

Just completed this task myself over the weekend. Does your local CAT shop stock the SAEO oil? I have used that the past 5 years (on advice from Frank) and there's been a noticeable reduction in the sooting I was getting. I think the previous owner used Rotella. I needed to clean the aftercoolers and turbos, as well as switch to the new oil. Something to think about if you are getting the transom soot.

My filters are part# 324-2598, they are what came on the boat when I got it, so I've been replacing with the same.

While you are doing the oil change, you may as well do the primary and secondary fuel filters, they are all located within easy reach and it doesn't add a ton of time. You say there's significant algae issues, so the filters (specifically the Racors, is where you will see it) will be the place to trap it once you start killing it with the fuel regimen. Be prepared to replace the fuel filters regularly until the problem is cleared up.

My oil reservoir pump has a breaker below the cabin steps that needs to be turned on before the pump will operate. Also, ensure that your connections are tight, otherwise the pump won't operate right, it'll just suck air. Ask me how I know that... It does help to fire up the engines (including the generator) and get the oil warm, the pump will make short work of it if that's the case.

Good luck, it's not a difficult job. Bring a few 5 gallon buckets from HD so you can recycle the oil at an auto parts store. Each main engine holds 6 gallons of oil, and the generator almost 1, so plan accordingly!

Kevin

 

[Boca_Vincent]

So I haven’t noticed any sooting yet but I also only have about 5 hours logged since owning. The ride home was super flat seas for about 3 hours in the ocean, and I didn’t push her hard at all, due to the what we found during the survey, being deferred maint and running a bit warm. BTW, this is not the vessel that I messaged you about last year when I asked about your hardtop for shipping. Patience was rewarded (hopefully) in finding this one here in FL.

Just been doing my required reading, and gathering supplies these past couple weeks. I did already pick up the oil (Rotella T1 40) and am waiting for the filters to come in. Hopefully the CAT site didn’t steer me wrong on the compatibility for the port side and they come in by Sat so I can get to work this weekend.

And yes, the fuel system is at the top of the punchlist. I have a clogged up racor right now. I decided to go for a “quick ride” one nice day after finishing up my house chores. This was my first time out since the trip home. Well it was quite rough that day, but I decided to head out the inlet anyway… cause I’m smart like that. Shook her up good and about 20 minutes later lost power to the starboard engine. The odd thing was that when I went to restart it the fuel gauge went to empty. I initially thought that I was out of fuel even though both were 50% when I left, so I switched tanks and brought her back in feeding both from the port tank. When I had the chance to open up that filter, I was shocked at how bad it actually was. I have the service kit also ordered with a case of filter elements, and will be pulling the unit out to do a proper bench cleaning – the fuel would barely drain out, it is so full of junk. I am hoping the other 2 come around using the FW prescriptions. The genny was running fine off that same tank (which I didn’t think of at the time), but not going to run it until the additives are in. Once I have all that done, I’ll move onto the cooling systems.
And thank you for the insight to the breaker location. I didn’t see a switch in the bilge and cant seem to find a manual in my docs. I was mistaken earlier as it is the reverso model that I have. Empty 5G buckets are in the garage with the oil and extra pads & bags.
Thanks again,
Vince

 

[Risingson]

Looks like you have air seps for air intake. You can just clean them and not have to replace them. Any auto parts store has the cleaner and the oil to re-oil the air seps.

 

[Boca_Vincent]

Just wanted to post a follow up on this project, and a thanks again for all your advice. Went pretty smooth for the most part. Took a couple mins for the oil to start flowing which had me a little nervous, but then it went quickly. The pumping back in on the other hand was much slower. Guessing that's partly due to the temp difference in old vs. new oil. My main blunder was that I forgot to order the new filter for the genny, so that will come later. Now I know I can do that one pretty easily while sitting out and about one day. Really glad that I picked up one those filter wrenches. No way I would have been able to loosen by hand.
I wasn't sure about the breaker for the reverso pump. I don't see how you could turn it on/off, seems like mine is just re-settable if it pops, so the unit has power all the time. Please correct me if I am wrong - pic attached of the panel under the step.
Those air filters were beat and barely holding shape. I'll clean going forward.

 

[GnrlPatton]

For the breaker, get a little screw driver and put it in the slot next to "Off" and push slightly to disable the breaker. I always turn mine off after each oil change, as well as turn off the valves on the reverso pump in the ER. I'd hate to bump it and have the switch come on inadvertently...

I've never used the reverso to fill, only to empty. I always just use the oil filler tube on the engine.

One thing I forgot to mention earlier is to check the tightness of the hoses coming into the reverso. My mains were both loose last year, and it took forever to drain until I figured that out. Because they were loose, they were losing prime and not building up the suction required. Mine takes about 5 mins per side to completely drain the mains.

Kevin