Extreme winterizing

Fetch ND

Fetch ND

New Member
May 21, 2008
401
Devils Lake ND
Boat Info
220 SunDeck
Engines
350 V8
I live in ND & believe me we know Cold :lol:

This is my 1st SeaRay & 1st V8

So far I turned open the blue valve that drains the block

& removed two smaller plugs One up high & the other down by the main drain (looks like the water pump)

Is this All I have to drain as far as the motor goes ?

I put RV anti-freeze in the boat bottom & pump it out the bilge

& plan to drain the oil & replace & the lower unit lube

I put stabil in the remaining gas & ran it until it got into the mtr

Do I need to put anti-freeze back in the Block / Mtr ?

It will be stored in a (Cold) Quonset
 
I put the four gallons container of the blue RV anti freeze on the swim platform and run a hose with the muffs on the lower unit water intake. Run the engine until the stat opens and anti freeze flows thru the engine blocks.
 
The drain plugs open the water jacket. Water will remain in the jacket.

Use marine winterizing anti-freeze and have the engine pump it through the system. No problem draining that afterwards.

All water should be displaced by anti-freeze.

The problem spot on my boat is the hot water system, 'cause the water heater holds water at the bottom, diluting the mix.

Last time I unbolted the moving bed and the water heater to stand it on end to drain. Yes it's a pain.
 
wingless said:
The drain plugs open the water jacket. Water will remain in the jacket.
Yes it's a pain.
Click to expand...

The plugs that Fetch is talking about is a quick drain system on newer motors. They draining more then the jackets. This question has been asked many times and I don't think we have had a clear answer. According to the manual those plugs will drain all of the water. I still pour antifreeze down the thermostat but I think thats overkill.
 
HavingFun said:
The plugs that Fetch is talking about is a quick drain system on newer motors. They draining more then the jackets. This question has been asked many times and I don't think we have had a clear answer. According to the manual those plugs will drain all of the water. I still pour antifreeze down the thermostat but I think thats overkill.
Click to expand...
I have the quick drain system too....the scary part is with sediment/scale in the manifolds blocking the drains. Probably more of a concern with older motors.
In order for the drain system to get all of the water out, Merc manual states that the boat must be completely level. They further state that you should drive the boat around, if possible to remove any remaining water. To me, if there is any doubt, I put anti-freeze in after draining with the single point drain system.
 
Weave said:
I have the quick drain system too....the scary part is with sediment/scale in the manifolds blocking the drains. Probably more of a concern with older motors.
In order for the drain system to get all of the water out, Merc manual states that the boat must be completely level. They further state that you should drive the boat around, if possible to remove any remaining water. To me, if there is any doubt, I put anti-freeze in after draining with the single point drain system.
Click to expand...


I sent an email to Merc this morning and here is the answer.

Good Morning. The drain systems on the MerCruiser products are not designed to be a full winterization. We still strongly suggest the use of anti freeze for the full winterization process.
Best regards,
Rocky W. Stebens
Consumer Service Specialist
MerCruiser Customer Service

Don't know if this is a CYA answer or not. I guess I am back to pulling the thermostat
 
That's their way of covering their backside. Cheap insurance in the grand scheme of it all though.
 
Enjoytheride said:
Do I understand correctly that the raw water picked up from the outdrive cools the outdrive and motor? :smt017
Click to expand...
Well that all depends.
If you have a closed cooling system, the water picked up from the drive cools a the coolant...similar to a radiator in your vehicle. The closed loop circulates through you engine/motor and then through a section that is jacketed and cooled by the water being picked up from the drive.
If you have an open cooling system, the water picked up by the drive circulates the water through the manifolds, and block when the t-stat opens and goes back out through the exhaust passages. Before the motor is up to temp it will simply circulate water through the manifolds and back out.

This is the reason it is important to service the impeller at recommended intervals despite which system your boat is equipped with

Others can probably give a better in depth description but that's my short version.
 
This will be my first attempt at winterizing, I had acouple of questions;
1. Is the best way to use the ear muffs and draw the antifreeze through?
2. Couldn't I just fill a 5 gallon pail with antifreeze and put the lower unit in and draw it through that way?
3. Before I do either method should I dump antifreeze in through the thermostat so the engine block is full first?

Thanks,
Mike G.
 
gruz1 said:
This will be my first attempt at winterizing, I had acouple of questions;
1. Is the best way to use the ear muffs and draw the antifreeze through?
2. Couldn't I just fill a 5 gallon pail with antifreeze and put the lower unit in and draw it through that way?
3. Before I do either method should I dump antifreeze in through the thermostat so the engine block is full first?

Thanks,
Mike G.
Click to expand...

There's multiple ways to accomplish what you want to do.... Here's just one....

If you have an I/O drive setup, I would recommend draining the block and risers/manifolds first, then pull the thermostat, reinstall the thermostat housing, and then put a 5 gallon pail on the swim platform and connect the pail to the muffs. Gravity is your friend now and the head pressure will help prime the pump. Replace the thermostat in the spring. If you don't remove the thermostat, you risk pumping more antifreeze overboard then through the motor since the thermostat is closed. Some may suggest warming the motor up on the hose (thermostat still installed) and then following up with the 5 gallon pail method once the thermostat opens. Since you can't physically verify the thermostat is open, this method is a crapshoot at best.

Doug
 
gruz1 said:
This will be my first attempt at winterizing, I had acouple of questions;
1. Is the best way to use the ear muffs and draw the antifreeze through?
2. Couldn't I just fill a 5 gallon pail with antifreeze and put the lower unit in and draw it through that way?
3. Before I do either method should I dump antifreeze in through the thermostat so the engine block is full first?
Mike G.
Click to expand...

You are going to hear many different opinions. How old is your boat and does it have a quick drain system? If it does not have a quick drain system then I would use a kit like this http://www.wholesalemarine.com/pc/S...+(181935527)&utm_content=starr.mike@gmail.com or make your own. I would warm up the engine then attach the antifreeze.These have been around for awhile and you would hear about them failing. If you would rather pull hoses ( I did this for 10 years and it's not fun in a sport boat) then I think you can get away with a gallon down the thermostat. Good Luck
 
So my 2005 5.0 carb has the blue drain plugs. It sounds like for me down here in Texas that might be ok to do and not have to run anti-freeze.

My question though is whether the lack of liquid in the block opens it up to corrosion due to exposure to air.

Thoughts on this?
 
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