Engine won't turn over

Risers and manifolds can go at any time. Like you mine was running great and then the port side failed. Also like you I can work with teak and holly and I've been told I work well with glass issues but when it comes to engines I know very little. I should have paid more attention to my dad.

I trust my guys at Hampton Marine Services completely but never be afraid to ask questions. Any great shop should have no issue explaining things. The members here have always been there for me and are a great source of info.

Good luck with her and let us know how it goes
 
I'll amend my earlier comment: Since the engine is raw water cooled, that does raise a question as to your mechanics original diagnoses. In the case of closed cooling....antifreeze is easily differentiated from raw water. In your case, raw water is undifferentiated which means he is really guessing at a block/head/gasket failure as opposed to manifold/riser failure.....not a good approach unless you are trying to set a catastrophic (price) expectation with the customer.

At this point, your mechanic seems to be on a path to pull the engine. I am curious what he finds.
 
I had a hydrolock a few years ago on my prior boat. Was idling out of a cove at the end of a weekend and it stalled. Went to restart and it sounded like it was a low battery. Tried again and heard a "bang", but still not turning over. Had to be towed 15 miles (no Sea Tow - $600 tow).

For me, it was a corroded ignition wire or coil wire that cause a miss and back fire, turning the engine in reverse for a second, sucking water in. The bang was the starter mounting tab breaking. After a new starter, oil change, the boat was back to normal. Sounds like you are into more work than that though.
 
I just got back from the marina where I had a chance to see my engine out of the boat. The mechanic showed me the problem, which I will describe in layman's terms. It seems the head developed a hole in one of the exhaust ports - he showed me the hole. I asked if just the head could be replaced, but he told me the engine has been compromised with salt water into the main part of the engine, bearings, etc. I will therefore need a long block. I asked how such a hole could develop, and he thought is could have been from the original casting, but there is really no way tell for sure. He also showed me the distributor cap - completely corroded on the inside. He didn't see how the boat could run with that unit. He showed me the risers, and they look good and can be reused, but the manifolds need to be replaced. He will take the rest of the parts off my engine and install them on the new engine.
Although I don't know much about engines, he does have my complete confidence judging from what I have seen, and what we talked about. I asked what the total bill might be, and he thought about $8K. I hope all this sounds reasonable to you.
I sure am glad I have the rest of you here to give me advise, comfort, etc.
 

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