Engine won't start

[michiel]

Hi,

I own an 18 foot SeaRay bowrider 135HP 4 cylinder inboard/outboard. I just charged and reinstalled the battery after a winter of storage. I can't get the engine to start. No voltage indicator on the dashboard when key turned to the right. All of the fuses under the dashboard are in good order. Gas is full. Battery indicates 12.6 V charge. Main fuse on engine block did not pop out and is properly reset. The trim feature is working. Start switch is in the start upper position. I've tried to jump start via cables but no result. Anyone have suggestions for me? Thank you!!

 

[Quint4]

Define "can't get engine to start" ...does it turn over? If not is shift lever in neutral (wiggle it if so).... is kill switch/lanyard a factor?

 

[michiel]

Quint thanks for your response.

The starter motor does not turn over nor do I hear it activating. With the engine in neutral, gas handle in the forward position, kill switch in run position, turning the key to the right does not activate the dashboard panel i.e. fuel level, battery charge indication etc. nor does it start the engine. Strange thing is that the fuses in the panel below the dashboard are all ok and the trim electrical motor does operate. Is there any other fuse box that you are aware off? Could not find anything in the electrical drawings.

Define "can't get engine to start" ...does it turn over? If not is shift lever in neutral (wiggle it if so).... is kill switch/lanyard a factor?

 

[Presentation]

Does your horn work and sound normal?
I’m trying to see if you have a normal amount of power.


The red battery cable, is it going to the + symbol on the battery or the – symbol?




Also, I agree with Qunit. Jiggle the shifter to confirm you are in neutral. More than one man has been humbled after being towed in, mechanic called only to find the throttle / shifter combination was engaged, locking out the starter.

 

[BonBini]

Your obviously not getting any power beyond your key switch... You've got power coming forward since your trim works. Now you need to see if you've got power to your key switch.

 

[Sundancer]

Do you have a battery switch? I've seen the trim motors routed directly to the battery so you can raise and lower the prop. This assures nothing else is draining power from your battery.

 

[michiel]

Just conducted a bit more trouble shooting based on both your feedback. The bilge pump, nav lights, horn, blower, etc. are not operating with the key switch activated and without it activated. Normally I can start the blower without using the key switch. Also switched the battery out with my car battery which has the same CCA and no result. Also ensured that the 5Amps circuit breaker on the motor was not activated and is properly reset. Red is connected to the + and black is connected to the -. Moved the shift leaver around several times sol to ensure that it is in the neutral position. My gut feeling tells me that there is something wrong with the wiring as I did notice some water around the battery area when I first opened it up. I may try a different battery charger but do not believe that that is the issue.

 

[SeaSparks]

Have you been able to check the voltage coming out of your battery switch?? The only place both the dash feed and engine come from is the switch. Try there and see what you have.

 

[michiel]

There are three contacts plus one ground on the starter switch. Measured all over these with the switch in the off position and on position and could not get any DC Voltage read out. Off the battery there were a couple of electrical wires that directed to a 15 and 3 Amp fuse. Removed both fuses, measured resistance over them so they were fine. Even it the switch was faulty I assume I should have measured the 12.6 V input from the battery right? I also inspected the wiring between the battery and the steering console and nothing appears to be damaged. Do you think I should consider and buy a new starter switch to rule out a broken switch?

 

[Presentation]

Do you think I should consider and buy a new starter switch to rule out a broken switch?

If I understood your earlier post, many things that need 12 volts DC are not working. I’m assuming that these things all started at once, and I’m assuming you have one issue.

The bilge pump should work with your keyed start switch on or off.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Check all around, back by the battery, for more wires that aren't hooked up. Also check under the engine to see if any wires fell down there (where you wouldn't readily see them, otherwise).

 

[Sundancer]

Michiel, your boat might have a big orange battery selector in the back of the boat. This switch allows you to switch everything off, select battery #1, #2 or combine them in an all position. It might be hidden, but you should be able to trace the wires and find it. Is this the first year with this boat? Did it run OK last fall?

 

[michiel]

I really appreciate everyone's feedback. Since I am leaving town this weekend and need to get my boat back into the water, I decided to bring it in for service. Service rep told me that he believes the fuse directly near the electrical connection to the starter motor is blown. He indicated that the control panel is fed through the power line that runs via the starter motor. I was unable to determine this from the electrical drawings that I have. We removed the engine cover and he showed me a small little square block of about half inch by half inch in size that has a round cover on it. It for sure did not look to me like a fuse box. I am pretty sure that this will be the issue but will let everyone know tomorrow (hopefully after they fixed it).

 

[michiel]

This fuse was blown. Not sure how any one measure resistance over it. After a $180 service bill (cost of fuse $27) the problem has been fixed. :thumbsup:

 

[Lazy Daze]

Thanks for the update - it's always good to see how things turned out.