Engine Synchronizer

DS410

New Member
Oct 9, 2006
107
Baltimore, MD
Boat Info
Boatless
Engines
Boatless
Our engine synch has not been working properly all season, so we've just been synching, (not sinking), manually. As a result, we really are not sure of the proper use / procedure for even using the synchronizer as the owner's manual is not too clear on the subject.

A - Can anyone offer any troubleshooting tips on what the problem might be with it? When we turn it on, one engine (I forget which) revvs up higher than the other and doesn't recover. I was wondering if the problem might be electrical. We've had our fuse panel replaced but I haven't had an opportunity to try the synch since then.

B - What exactly IS the proper why to turn it on and turn it off? All I know is that one throttle is supposed to be slaved to the other and there's supposed to be a slight lag time for the slaved engine to "catch up" to the master.

Thanks.

David
 
I activate my synchronizer as soon as I am ready to come up on plane and have past the busy high traffic areas. So I'm at about 1000 rpm. THe stbd engine is slaved to the post, as soon as you hit the switch to activate the sync, advance the stbd throttle to full WOT position. Since it is slaved, nothing is supposed to happen and this taked the load of advancing the throttle lever and cable off the synchronizer mechanism.

A Glendenning synchronizer has a cable driven rpm sensor on the crankshaft. If the cable is not adjusted properly, it puts the cable end in a bind and it will break off. If you are getting erratic results with the sync. my guess is that it is not getting an rpm reading from one of the engines.

Check the cable on the center of the harmonic balancer on thecrankshaft.
 
fwebster said:
A Glendenning synchronizer has a cable driven rpm sensor on the crankshaft. If the cable is not adjusted properly, it puts the cable end in a bind and it will break off. If you are getting erratic results with the sync. my guess is that it is not getting an rpm reading from one of the engines.

Check the cable on the center of the harmonic balancer on thecrankshaft.

Okay, Frank. Just pretend you're writing the book, "Synchronizer Repair for Dummies". :smt101
Now, I know that some things are impossible to explain in words, but if you can, please tell me again, in "dummy-ese" this time, how to check it. :grin:

BTW, What you described happening - the erratic behavior - is pretty much what we've got. Thanks so much.

David
 
David,

I'll try. First, I am assuming you have either 3116's or 3126's since your don't say.

On the aft end of the engines as they are mounted in the boat, look at the crankshaft harmonic balencer which is on the end of the crankshaft. in the center of it there is a thing held in place by a metal bracket that is bolted in place on either side of the crankshafe. The bracket is there to hold the synchronizer sender. ANother way to find it is to follow the cable from the synchronizer control box mounted above the engine....one cable runs to the injector pump control and the other runs down to the crankshaft. THere is a 3rd but it runs forward to the synchronizer itself on the main bulkhead.

The cable running to the crankfhaft goes to a little mechanical thing that has a small square shaft going forward into a mating hole on the crankshaft damper. The parts in the little square mechanical thing will strip if the alignment to the engine is not correct....the mounting plate is slotted to allow for adjustment.

That is where it is and what it does, but if you are not inclined to tear it apart and fix it, this may be something best left to the Caterpillar or Sea Ray techs. The little mechanical box is not too expensive, but if it is not properly aligned, then you are only going to strip another one. Additionally, erratic results could also be caused by something wrong in the synchronizer control box. Glendennings are mechanical and are usually bullet proof, but if you get it apart, you are done until it is repaired because both dash throttle controls go to the synchronizer and then to the engines.

Sorry I'm not any more help than this........but you are right, sometimes it is difficult to put in words what one sentence and a pointed finger would do.
 
Frank, You're terrific. I don't know how you are able to prevent the constant praise from going to your head. (Maybe you can't).

Anyway, Thanks very much for the further explanation. I'll probably take a visual on it just to see what it looks like, but I think I'll need a specialist in the end.

David

BTW - we've got the 3116's. SeaRay started putting the 3126's in with the 2000 model, (I'm sure you knew that), but ours was built just prior to the changeover.
 
David,

Thanks for the compliment........

I'm sometimes afraid to go into too much detail for fear that someone will get in way over their heads, but you seem sensible and understand that there may be a Cat guy visit in your future. So here are some other thoughts.

You can take the synchronizer off the engine by removing the mounting bracket ....do not try to remove the sender from the bracket. You cannot get the nut and washer off with it in place. Be careful pulling it away from the engine since the little shaft may fall out. Once it is removed, grasp the square ended shaft and try to rotate it. You should feel some slight reisitance as the gears turn, but it should be smooth. If it crunches, you feel roughness or no resistance at all, you found the problem. When you reassemble it, but sure the little shaft is seated all the way in the sensor head then lubricate the shaft wilt a little anticorrosion grease and insert it in the receiver on the end of the crankshaft. It should slide in easily and be adjusted so that the shaft is perpendicular to the crankshaft.

Now, if I have scared you into not trying this alone, anytime you have to get a Caterpillar technician to the boat for anything, try to make the trip worthwhile since you are paying for him from the time he leaves his shop to the time he returns. On a 2000 year model, you are probably approaching 500 hours of running time. If you have not yet had it done, your engines are about ready for the 500 hour service by Cat. This is an important one since they adjust the valves, and reset the mechanical injectors and rack. It takes special equipment and knowledge to do so a Sea Ray dealer or regular repair shop cannot do it. This is a critical service since the valves tighten as an engine wear in. THis means they open further than required and sooner or later valves may hit a piston.....which is not a good thing. In your location you may not have a problem yet , but at about 5 years, it is also a good idea to have the heat exchangers and transmission oil coolers cleaned as well.

Resetting the engine overhead will take about a day and cleaning the heat exchangers about 6 hours if they cannot be disassembled without removing them from the boat. I'm lucky, there is enough space between my engines that it was only about a 3 hour job since the cores can be removed in place. Figure about $100/hour plus travel expenses and parts.

One final tip......when you call your Caterpillar dealer to set up the service work, be prepared to give him both the engines' serial numbers and arrangement numbers....the AR number tells the dealer what configuration your engines are and lets him go to specific parts lists. Then tell him you expect him to find that the synchronizer sender on the crankshaft is bad. That way it may save him a trip and you some time since he will probably bring a replacement out with him.
 
Thanks again for the great advice. We're not quite up to 500 hrs yet. Maybe by the end of next season. We bought the boat at the end of last season with low hours - I think in the 200's. I know low hours are not necessarily a good thing, especially with diesels, but we had the engines checked out and they were good.

David
 
Frank W.
I was under the assumption (I know...bad word) that 3116 and 3126's had a major service at 250 hours and than nothing major scheduled till around the 1500 hour mark (per the Caterpillar mechanic that did my 250 hour service. Major service every 250 hours sounds like a lot but 1500 sounds like too much time between adjustments. Is this documented anywhere? I will look this weekend as the manuals are on the boat but if you know off hand, it would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Frank,

It is in the Cat owners manual. Look under the scheduled maintenance area, but my manuals are where your are. As I remember, you have to select the schedule that matches the rating on your engines. In Cat language, its going to be "E" high performance. My recollection is that the major service is at 500 hours then the next is at 1500.

At 250 hours, using the recommended oil change interval, you would do the major service at about the time you do your first oil change....and that does not seem correct to me.

Anyway, we did mine at 500 hours and both engines needed it. Out of 24 valves, I had one that was correct and all the others were tight.
 
Thanks Frank, we should pass the 500 hour mark next season and I guess a call to the local Cat dealer will be in the '07 operating budget!! I really don't mind spending the money every few years to ensure that when I need her to start and run, she does and will continue to do so.

Weather permitting we may have 1 or 2 weekends left this season, then its "winter mode". You have a vague recollection of winter. don't you??
Thanks again.
 
The manual for 3116/3126 Marine Engine calls for valve lash and fuel injection timing checks and adjustments at 250 service hours not 500 hours. Waiting until 500 hours may explain why Frank W. had 23 out of 24 valves out of spec.

If you own your boat long enough, you will need to continue this service every 2000 hours after the initial 250 hour break-in period.

The only service required at 500 hours, in addition to the every 250 hour services, is to clean and inspect the turbocharger and aftercooler.

Thought I would clarify the previous misinformation despite being drastically off-topic from the initial engine synchronizer question.
 
ImpulseIII,

Check your own owners manual. There appears to be some difference between different years in when various service items are required. My engines are '96 models made before the TRW valve problem and intercooler clogging issues were identified and the valve adjustment is at 500 hours. Since you are planning to do it after commissioning next year, this point does not matter.
 
Thanks Frank.... et al.
We are on the way to the boat and I will bring the manuals home. Some light reading for a winters night :smt015
 
I activate my synchronizer as soon as I am ready to come up on plane and have past the busy high traffic areas. So I'm at about 1000 rpm. THe stbd engine is slaved to the post, as soon as you hit the switch to activate the sync, advance the stbd throttle to full WOT position. Since it is slaved, nothing is supposed to happen and this taked the load of advancing the throttle lever and cable off the synchronizer mechanism.

A Glendenning synchronizer has a cable driven rpm sensor on the crankshaft. If the cable is not adjusted properly, it puts the cable end in a bind and it will break off. If you are getting erratic results with the sync. my guess is that it is not getting an rpm reading from one of the engines.

Check the cable on the center of the harmonic balancer on thecrankshaft.
Hi Frank,

After moving the STBD throttle to WOT do you leave it there, or return it back to idle position?
 
Hi Frank,

After moving the STBD throttle to WOT do you leave it there, or return it back to idle position?

(Btw, wasn't sure if my reply above was posted correctly, hence this reply/post)
 
Hi Frank,

After moving the STBD throttle to WOT do you leave it there, or return it back to idle position?

(Btw, wasn't sure if my reply above was posted correctly, hence this reply/post)

With the Glendenning Syncs what I do is with the boat at idle on both engines (Departing the marina), I turn on the sync switch. Then I move the starboard throttle to full. It stays there until I return to port and go to idle and need individual engine control. I then simply move the port throttle forward slowly as the RPM's build until I get to my cruising RPM.

As I stated, Once arriving at my destination, I first pull the Port throttle to idle, pull the starboard throttle to idle, then switch off the Glendenning Sync.
 
Thanks Steve!
 
Thanks Bill! Sadly enough... going on my 4th season with her and Ive just not used the engine sync option. Thinking maybe I'm missing something worthwhile... ;)
 
Hi Frank,

After moving the STBD throttle to WOT do you leave it there, or return it back to idle position?

(Btw, wasn't sure if my reply above was posted correctly, hence this reply/post)


You advance the stbd throttle to WOT when you turn on t he synchronizer because that takes the cable load off the synchronizer which reduces wear and makes the port throttle more sensitive. So, Yes, one you advance the stbd throttle, you leave it there into you are ready to resume 2-throttle control. At that point you turn off the synchronizer then retard the stbd throttle lever to below the speed the engine is running then advance it until it catches up to the engine speed.

Turn the danged synchronizer on and enjoy one of the coolest options on the 450DA!
 

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