Engine Detailing

[Shaps]

Started to get the engines and engine room ready for detailing, while cleaning the engines. Some of the paint started to flake off near the cylinder head. What would you guys do to prep the area, if anything.
I was prepared to just touch up spray paint the areas but now I'm thinking I need some kind of primer. These are Cummins QSCs for the record. Thanks!
Shaps

 

[skibum]

I think your biggest concern is going to be grease or oil contamination. I wouldn't go too crazy. Chip off any loose paint, hit it with a couple of shots of brake cleaner, and then wipe it down with either denatured alcohol or whatever thinner or reducer is compatible with the paint you will be using and spray away.

 

[Skybolt]

Just make sure that the area is CLEAN of oil and grease, use carb cleaner. Just sand a bit or wire brush then paint.

 

[techmitch]

Just make sure that the area is CLEAN of oil and grease, use carb cleaner. Just sand a bit or wire brush then paint.

Carb. cleaner leaves behind a residue believe it or not.

 

[Shaps]

Carb. cleaner leaves behind a residue believe it or not.

Brake cleaner and acetone don't leave a residue is my understanding.

 

[techmitch]

Brake cleaner and acetone don't leave a residue is my understanding.

That is correct.

 

[Skybolt]

Carb. cleaner leaves behind a residue believe it or not.

Most is not all engine paint likes it then. I have been using carb cleaner for a long time and the paint doesn't peel. So I guess it like the residue.

 

[techmitch]

Most is not all engine paint likes it then. I have been using carb cleaner for a long time and the paint doesn't peel. So I guess it like the residue.

Actually. that may also be true, my experience is bias to the automotive field. Sometime in the 80's there was an issue with engine oil pan leak repeat repair's (even when P.C.V. system's were verified a functioning properly) in applications where silicone started being used as engine oil pan gasket material. After extensive research and repair technique tracking it was determined that all were related to the use of carb. cleaner as opposed to brake clean as a final cleaning because it left a residue that the silicone didn't like and hampered adhesion.
A tsb was issued.

 

[Skybolt]

Actually. that may also be true, my experience is bias to the automotive field. Sometime in the 80's there was an issue with engine oil pan leak repeat repair's (even when P.C.V. system's were verified a functioning properly) in applications where silicone started being used as engine oil pan gasket material. After extensive research and repair technique tracking it was determined that all were related to the use of carb. cleaner as opposed to brake clean as a final cleaning as it left a residue that the silicone didn't like and hampered adhesion.
A tsb was issued.

The spray pint I use is Rust-Oleum, industrial, machine gray. The industrial paint is a little different then the hardware store paint. But the carb cleaner works really well as a prep.

 

[Skybolt]

CRC Brake cleaner, brakleen, works well also. If you use either one in the ER, use a respirator. The fumes can be lethal.

Great deal on a dozen of Brakleen - https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05084-12...84694b53eb791d0f6dda84014e7&gad_source=1&th=1

 

[skibum]

It was never predictable as to whether I'd have brake cleaner or carb cleaner available at the time I did any painting, so that's why I got in the habit of doing a final wipe with alcohol.

 

[Lazy Daze]

CRC Brake cleaner, brakleen, works well also. If you use either one in the ER, use a respirator. The fumes can be lethal.

Great deal on a dozen of Brakleen - https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05084-12...84694b53eb791d0f6dda84014e7&gad_source=1&th=1

Especially if it's the chlorinated version! I think it probably takes a special respirator? Personally, I wouldn't even use the chlorinated version in such a confined space. Bad things can happen VERY quickly with stuff in a area like a boat's bilge. Note that the green can that Orlando linked to is NOT the chlorinated version (red can).

 

[Skybolt]

Especially if it's the chlorinated version! I think it probably takes a special respirator? Personally, I wouldn't even use the chlorinated version in such a confined space. Bad things can happen VERY quickly with stuff in a area like a boat's bilge. Note that the green can that Orlando linked to is NOT the chlorinated version (red can).

Yep, but this respiretor will do the trick - https://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Pro...587&sprefix=3m+respiretor,aps,144&sr=8-5&th=1

I have the full face version when I use any chemicals in the ER, including spray paint. It gets toxic quickly.

 

[Shaps]

Awesome.Thank you!
I actually have that respirator, I'll just get new filters... and the green CRC.. i didn't know that, thanks!
Now that it's degreased, any thoughts on primer to use? I'm using the factory cummins engine paint.

 

[Skybolt]

Awesome.Thank you!
I actually have that respirator, I'll just get new filters... and the green CRC.. i didn't know that, thanks!
Now that it's degreased, any thoughts on primer to use? I'm using the factory cummins engine paint.

You don't need any primer, but if you feel you need to, just use the Rust Oleum automotive primer like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-2081830-Stops-12-Ounce-Primer/dp/B000V69Q58/ref=sr_1_7?crid=807PYQB75M7V&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.O9B46TVAK6MmKlMYEP3dnEdib3xLWz_6ahyaz-vxtU9hOIX1svRtRCGi-Zu1YgfxppwtNRfeYzivmo7yP_8Qnr1Z9mpTPj5RjQEbxmEpU_B2RQ0Cam1v10ZcjTjNho3o3MuZoOnNmzkf-SqTEbbqepxIH__mShgRHcl59oUO4N-eKrer6038Wz2RpHHIM9wuUZV6unMeZDFFWOZazQmT6OtYOkQenkXvpY1CJd_hOF8dKtjeJ_eaesLJYWkrboiZqZ_fzSMAvgxHdo_5IbZQ6rUsHB4-dW7yfG5BasyL9D8.ohF7_GLhCkfuK7vIFIQeRQWnWgK78zM_yM4fJex9QNk&dib_tag=se&keywords=auto+primer&qid=1709083644&sprefix=auto+%2Caps%2C874&sr=8-7