Engine compartment access - 2001 240SD (Superflush install)

[jmik]

Hi All -

Long time reader, first time poster. I recently acquired a 2001 240 sundeck w/the 5.7 merc and bravo 3. Love the boat!

I am attempting to install a superflush system, which requires me to install an injector valve in place of the blue plug in the block drains. On the starbard side, the is a knock sensor in the block drain hole and the blue plug is underneath the knock sensor. Due to the walkway to the stern swimplatform, the clearance on the starboard side is minimal. I was able to get my hand down to the drain plug, remove it, and install the injector, but when it came time to put the hose on the injector (and tighten the hose clamp) I was unable to reach it successfully.

I spoke to someone at superflush who said they had installed a unit on a similar boat that had a secondary access panel to the engine compartment on the starboard side. I couldn't find any such panel, but think there must be a way to get in there since the fresh water tank is back there. Anyone know? I checked the searay manual but saw no mention.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Instead of installing the injector directly... could you first install a 45* or 90* fitting into the brass Y-fitting that is currently there? Would that provide the clearance you need? Or maybe a short, SS braided, flexible line, first?

 

[jmik]

Hi - thanks for the reply. The injector is already at a 90 degree angle.. The issue is that there is only about 6 inches between the engine and the engine compartment wall.. so i am literally laying on top of the motor with one arm fully stretched out to even reach the block drain.. sliding a hose onto a barb one handed and then somehow getting a screwdriver onto the end of the hose clamp and tightening it is what I can't figure out (can't even get a screwdriver close to the hose clamp due to clearance).

I suppose a short piece of hose on an adapter could work if I could install the adapter into the block drain with the hose already attached.. but not sure that would be possible either.. I mean it it TIGHT... with my hand in there all i could do was finger tighten the injector into the drain hole.. couldn't even move my wrist.

Anyone know what the correct threading is for the blue plugs in the block drain? I have a brass 1/8" pipe thread fitting but it seems to have have the wrong thread spacing when compared to the blue plug.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Tight spaces? Yeah, I know exactly what you're talking about. It'd be great if you could get to it from underneath, huh? (like in a car) Too bad there's a chunk of fiberglass in the way...:smt101

?You might have to bite the bullet and remove manifold?

But, unless someone else chimes in here, you might want to mosey on over to the 240SD thread and ask the same question. Give it a day or two to see if any of them see this thread, then re-ask it in that 240SD-specific thread.

Would removing the brass Y-adapter and assembling everything on your workbench be any easier? In other words, would it be easier to unscrew and screw-in the adapter (especially if you ended up using a short SS-braided hose)? Just a thought.

I've used various 240SD's so many times over the years, I can't even count (my favorite bowrider!). But, I have never worked on the area you speak of so I'm just trying to throw out some general ideas. If I had one at the store right now, I could get a closer look.

 

[jmik]

:thumbsup:Thanks for your help, Dennis. I was going to try your suggestion, so I took a blue plug to the hardware store to buy a matching brass fitting and hose. I had been told that the blue plugs were 1/4" pipe thread, so i bought a brass fitting and 12" braided hose.. Turns out the blue plugs are not 1/4" NPT.. they're VERY close.. but not close enough.. Any idea what the thread size is for those drain holes?

BUT I did solve my problem.. this may be common knowledge but it's new to me so i'm posting here in case someone finds this thread in a search. The front wall of the engine compartment (from the floor up to the hatch) is actually a removeable fiberglass panel. It is held in by 6 screws.. once removed I had much better access to the engine. I still couldn't see the block drains, but i could get a hand on the and install the injectors and hoses.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Glad you got it figured out!

I'm not at the store all the time, yet. I emailed our parts guy about the blue plug. His response was ".500-13". That was it - nothing else in the email.

 

[jfarc]

jmik,

(just saw you got it resolved, so disregard!.....)

I have a 2000 240DA, but the only thing in the way of good access to the starboard drain cock sharing the brass y-fitting with the knock sensor are the raw sea water hoses.

I can move those away by hand and have a good amount of room in between engine and fiberglass wall to take off the blue drain plug(or install other fitting). If the hoses are presenting a problem, they are fairly easy to remove from the raw water pump up front and get them out of the way completely.

After all else fails, you could remove engine mount bolts on both sides and lift engine a few inches to give more room. Be careful of outdrive spline - you may need to remove outdrive if raising engine more than an inch or 2 so you don't damage the shaft or related stuff.

This may seem like a lot, but if you are equipped, it may be the only way.

Where did you get the 'SuperFlush' kit? Sounds a lot easier than pulling all plugs by hand when engine is hot.

 

[chuck1]

..... this may be common knowledge but it's new to me so i'm posting here in case someone finds this thread in a search. The front wall of the engine compartment (from the floor up to the hatch) is actually a removeable fiberglass panel. It is held in by 6 screws.. once removed I had much better access to the engine. I still couldn't see the block drains, but i could get a hand on the and install the injectors and hoses.

Sorry I Assumed you already knew that. Make sure to reseal it when you reinstall it or water will just flow to the bilge area.

 

[jmik]

jfarc -

I bought the superflush system because I run and store my boat in saltwater and needed a way to flush while in the water. The superflush has a water-in connection for a garden hose that then splits up and connects to four points on the motor (2 block drains and 2 manifold drains/fill lines).. you attach the hose and run the water for 4 minutes and it supposedly sends pulses of water through both sides of the motor (before and after the thermostat) to flush out the saltwater.. I just installed it yesterday so i can't speak to how well it actually works, but it does replace the saltwater with fresh water so it must be better than nothing.. :grin: I bought it online - i think the website is www.superflushsales.com (I am not affiliated with them in any way). The kit is "universal" for a lot of different motors, so the instructions leave a lot to be desired.. but I figured it out and could probably install one in about 1-2 hours if i had to do it again. If you have any questions let me know and I will try to help.

 

[jmik]

Sorry I Assumed you already knew that. Make sure to reseal it when you reinstall it or water will just flow to the bilge area.

Yeah I'm a noob with this boat. :grin:
The insulation on the inside of the panel was hiding all of the screws.
Good advice on the re-seal.. will do. Do you seal with regular bathroom caulk or something else?

 

[chuck1]

Just a marine sealant. Make sure not to use an Adhesive like 4000 or 5200.