Electronics Surgery/Upgrades

dtfeld

Water Contrails
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Jun 5, 2016
5,518
Milton, GA
Boat Info
410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
Engines
Cat 3126 V-Drives
Started pulling out the old electronics, that had seen better days. Had an RL80C Pathfinder display with a 4' open array radar, DSM 300 Fishfinder Module, ST7000+ autopilot, Ray220 VFH Hailer, ST60 Tridata and a RN300 GPS. Nice package in 2001.

I'm planning the following upgrades.

1. Replace the RL80C with a Raymarine a128 (refurbished)
2. Remove Radar Scanner, RN300, and Ray220 VHF
3. Network the ST7000+ Autopilot to the MFD and Move to Dash
4. Network the DSM300 Fishfinder module to the MFD
5. Replace the Ray 220 VHF/Hailer with an Icom M400BB VHF/Hailer.
6. Add MMSI to M400BB and network into NEMA0183.
7. Network a stereo (future)
8. Put Guage data on NEMA200) network (future)

I will not be adding radar back at this time. I do not see the value of standard radar on an inland lake, but I am sold on the new Doppler technology as a huge asset on a busy inland lake. The a Series MFD's can only run Lighthouse II and as such, cannot support the Quantum 2 Radars. However, there is an easy migration path to the Axiom's, but budgetary consideration don't allow that this year:)

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Did similar surgery 2 yrs ago. Had the same old electronics as you do. Replaced the RL80c with a Garmin 8208 and the 48" scanner with a Garmin 24xHD radome. I left the VHF (220), the triData and the autopilot. AP and 220VHF work with the new Garmin via NMEA0183. TriData (which uses SeaTalk) doesn't but might for you since you're staying with Ray. All engine (gas, Mercruiser) data is displayed on the Garmin as well. Not sure your Cats have the capability.

Questions:
1. is your stuff Raytheon or Raymarine?
2. will the ICOM be a direct fit into the hole vacated by the 220VHF?
^^^just looked up the ICOM. It's a black-box VHF. How are you dealing with the hole in the dash left by the scuttled 220?

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Many hours spent on my upgrades this year. Also upgraded the radar to a HD DIGITAL as the analog stuff is not compatible with the new MFDs. I like that the Garmin unit is completely separate from the Raymarine system and serves as a chartplotter but also as a 'backup' should any issues arise on the Seatalk NG bus or e125. Last piece will be to finally rip out the clarion stuff an put in a new Fusion radio and remote -- hardware ordered and awaiting shipment.

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Did similar surgery 2 yrs ago. Had the same old electronics as you do. Replaced the RL80c with a Garmin 8208 and the 48" scanner with a Garmin 24xHD radome. I left the VHF (220), the triData and the autopilot. AP and 220VHF work with the new Garmin via NMEA0183. TriData (which uses SeaTalk) doesn't but might for you since you're staying with Ray. All engine (gas, Mercruiser) data is displayed on the Garmin as well. Not sure your Cats have the capability.

Questions:
1. is your stuff Raytheon or Raymarine?
2. will the ICOM be a direct fit into the hole vacated by the 220VHF?
^^^just looked up the ICOM. It's a black-box VHF. How are you dealing with the hole in the dash left by the scuttled 220?

View attachment 59370
@rondds

Mine is Raytheon. I decided to stick with Raymarine for compatibility and keeping the budget reasonable. I found a refurbished a128 for $999 with standard 2 year warrantee. Can beat that for a 12” MFD. They are on EBay if anybody is interested.

The ST60 tridata and ST7000+ autopilot work and were easily integrated with a Seatalk to Seatalkng converter part #E22158. Since the seatalk network is already powered, its plug and play.

I just got back from installing an Icom M400BB VHF. Installed my MMSI#, and have it communicating NEMA0183 so position data shows up.

Next I hope to have new panels for the plotter and lower panel area on the left. I’m going to install the handheld connection port we’re the old ST80 Navigator keypad was installed. Cord hangs nicely in the install.

As for the hole left by the 220, I'm just going to use excess material to create a cover over the hole. I'll redo that panel as time and budget permit

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Last edited:
@gerryb. Keep me posted on your Fusion upgrade.
 
Dtfeld, Are you using the original transducer that was used with the ST60?

Yes. They are airmar transducers. There are two of them in the bilge. One is speed and temp, the other is the depth sounder. Currently depth and temp are working, speed is not due to a broken paddle wheel. Parts are cheap but I don't have the balls to pull that sensor while in the water. They are supposedly self sealing.

There is a separate fish finder transducer that is connected to the DSM300...I have the cords/converters ordered and hope to get that working next week
 
DT, flounder pounder has the burled simulated wood grain panels. That's where I got mine.

So what about the hole where the 220 was? Mine works fine -it's actually new-old stock, installed 2 years ago - but if it should die I really don't want to replace that entire switch panel to close up the hole.
 
Wouldn't dream of it. In the event that mine dies I'd love to find a VHF that would fit in the same rough opening. Not sure if one exists!
 
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OMG don't do all that work and then just leave holes or patch them with black plastic!

https://www.tecnografic.com/
I agree. We redid our helm and none of the holes matched. These pix show the back side with the mismatched cut outs and the other pic of the front shows what powder coated aluminum with a silk screened pinstripe looks like. Tiaras come out of the factory looking like this re-do (minus the irregular holes). There are lots of ways to cover up holes.
 
DT, flounder pounder has the burled simulated wood grain panels. That's where I got mine.

So what about the hole where the 220 was? Mine works fine -it's actually new-old stock, installed 2 years ago - but if it should die I really don't want to replace that entire switch panel to close up the hole.

@rondds

I was just looking at how to close up the hole. I'm with you...that's a $400 panel! I purchased the Flounder Pounder panels, should be here tomorrow. Once I cut the hole for the MFD, I'll have a little bit of material. However, I have been considering stereo options...

I was looking at the Rockford Fosgate black box stereo. The PMX-8 BB and the PMX-8DH are of interest, and the PMX-8DH display head might work. The existing hole is 4" tall x 7" wide. The required cutout for the PMX-8DH display head is 4.5" x 7.1". almost a perfect fit. I'll have to do a little measuring tomorrow. Kind of expensive for a volume control. I was expecting the MFD to at as the remote at the helm. The issue is I would have to expand the hole away from the switches, or the remote might interfere.

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OMG don't do all that work and then just leave holes or patch them with black plastic!

https://www.tecnografic.com/

Wouldn’t dream of it, but have a few other projects to do on the dash, so any covers are temporary. This will be a mock up in progress.

The next step is to get all the tach/engine data on a NEMA2000 network and displayed on smaller MFDs. Considering Chetco G2. How and where those display go is very fluid.

Once I have all that set, new high end panels will be ordered.
 
dtfeld.....regarding pulling the transducer. The speed transducer has a "flap" in the thru hull that mitigates (notice I didn't say stop) the flow of water when pulled. It does take a good silent prayer to work up the metal to remove it. Once the water flows good, all doubt is removed and you just concentrate on getting the plug in....quickly! Invite some buddies to stand around with a few beers in them. They will get a kick out of it.

I was able to remove the pin and the old wheel without disconnecting anything. The pin just taps out. Just make sure you orient the new wheel correctly.

Jaybeaux
 
dtfeld.....regarding pulling the transducer. The speed transducer has a "flap" in the thru hull that mitigates (notice I didn't say stop) the flow of water when pulled. It does take a good silent prayer to work up the metal to remove it. Once the water flows good, all doubt is removed and you just concentrate on getting the plug in....quickly! Invite some buddies to stand around with a few beers in them. They will get a kick out of it.

I was able to remove the pin and the old wheel without disconnecting anything. The pin just taps out. Just make sure you orient the new wheel correctly.

Jaybeaux

Lol! I knew about the flap slowing the flow, but still... I might need a few beers before I try that!

I’ve watched a video of how to do it...
 
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Just finishing this project myself. Last phase is the vv502 to replace system view 5000 next week. Waiting on the panel from tecnografic. Went with Axiom 9 with remote pad, b60 ducer, i70 instrument and ray260 vhf. No radar but might do a flir camera next season.
 

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