Electrical Questions - throttle and radio

BishFamilyBoating

New Member
Sep 6, 2020
12
Boat Info
2005 Sea Ray Sundeck 220
Engines
Mercruiser 5.0L
First time boat owner. And a female so go easy on me...this is going to be long but im trying to explain what we've been trying to figure out. Also, the boat is a very nice, well maintained boat. I dont feel as if we have purchased a lemon but I feel like its just a small issue that's hiding and im hoping you all can help.

ive been trying to read other threads but figured I would ask for our specific problem. We've had it to the shop two times now and still having issues.

Provlem 1: When driving along say 1200+ rpms, the sound will chime several times and totally shut the motor off. (Not overheating, new batteries, replaced the smartcraft gauge). Once you turn key off and back on...it will fire right up. Mechanic put it on computer and he said its throwing a ghost code so he told us to unplug this one cluster of wires back by the motor and see if it still does it. Once wiring was disconnected, its fine. So what would this problem be?

Problem 2: (Now this part may not be related)...but since we disconnected the wires, the trottle seems to be shorting out now. So whats happening...when the boat is off and we try to turn it back on...it seems to not be sending a signal that the throttle is in neutral and won't let us start the boat. So after wiggling and messing with the throttle it will eventually start.

Problem 3: The radio is shorting out (shutting off totally and then restarting on its own when it gets power back). It will work fine...and then when we use the trim it will short out or when we are just idling along it will short out and then kick back on at random.

Any help or suggestions are much appreciated!
 
Problem 1...ask your guy what he unplugged
Problem 2....neutral safety switch . Could be the switch or the throttle linkage
Problem 3....Bad connection probably, check your wiring or could be the head unit failing.
 
1. He unplugged the data link connector. Still trying to search other threads about why the alarm would sound while driving and then totally shut the motor off. (Only allowing us to restart it again)
2. Neutral safety switch or slave solenoid? - when we first turn the key to the right to turn it on the CO alarm doesn't sound and the gauges do not respond either. So we turn the key back off and wiggle the throttle forward and backward and then it will eventually sound and allow us to start it.
3. Checked all connections at the back of the radio.

Could these problems have anything to do with bad fuses?
 
No, if a fuse blows it doesn't reset itself. If wiggling is effective then it's a bad connection. Neutral saftey switch. or linkage. Locate it and put your DVM on it when it won't start.

Not clear on the data link connector, it doesn't unplug. it just has a dust cap on it that's removed for testing purposes.

Sounds like you have multiple bad connections. Lack of maintenance keeping your connections clean
 
Ok. We will look into it more after season. For now we may get one or two more uses out of it. We just purchased it and still rying to get to know all its sounds. The prior owner has receipts from the marina that serviced it. From what you are saying with lack of maintenance with those things, it sounds like they were taking his money and running. Thank you!!
 
I'd just like the record to show that it's not very "2020" of you to ask to be treated differently because you're a girl :):)

Welcome to CSR! I hope you can get your issues squared away. This is a great place for info...
 
I didnt mean that to be treated differently at all. Just in reading some of these threads I dont have a clue what the abbreviations mean and I do not have a mechanic lingo. I was only saying it so that when I ask additional questions you all will bare with me until I understand.
 
Can I ask a different question, are you boating in the salt or fresh? That will help with connection questions. But it sounds like the others are correct. Welcome to the club.
 
These problems are very easy to run down and fix. These issues pop up all the time with boats
 
Fresh water. Pennsylvania lakes and rivers.
The mechanic we took it too said the beeping that was happening before the motor shut down on us was throwing a ghost code and to just unhook the (purple and white) cluster of wires and run it.
But obviously it was sounding the alarm and triggering motor to shut down for a reason. At times we would be going 30 to 35 mph when it would happen.
Just want to fix it the right way before something major would happen.
Thank you all.
 
purple and white would be the trailer switch for your trim., so maybe that's shorting out, sucking voltage and starving the engine of juice.
 
Welcome to CSR!

Sure seems like a loose 12 volt connection or a bad ground. I would start with the battery connections and work from there. Has there been any work done on replacing electronics on the boat?

I'm also curious what you unplugged on the engine that allowed it to continue to operate.
 
I'll take a picture of what was unplugged tonight when I get home.
Both batteries are brand new from June 2020. All connections with the batters are cleaned and tight.
Last month the LCD in the smartcraft gauge was bad so we purchased another gauge. All fluids were changed in June 2020. New fuel filter.
Other than that, we are starting fresh with figuring this issue out. I contacted the prior owner and he said that he never had an issue with any of the things I mentioned to him. The boat needed cleaned and TLC when we purchased it...mostly all cosmetic....until this. The mechanic said the motor and boat are great...so i feel like its just a small connection issue that's causing this to happen so was just looking for a hint on where to start from the professionals. And by professionals I mean you all. Thank you!!
 
If it is reassuring....it sounds like something simple. I'm curious about the Smartcraft gauge.....was the boat working properly before that item was replaced?

The reason that I ask is the power wire for the gauges and the engine control daisychains between the gauges and controls behind the dash. If something got loose back there.....it could explain all/most of the problems you have noted.
 
So if something was unplugged to get the motor to run, then something on your boat now doesn't work.

So if it was the purple/ white wire, I'd say your trailer switch does not function.
 
No - the boat was not working properly prior to replacing the gauge. When the motor started to sound the warning alarm and then shut off we checked all the major stuff. Oil, oil pressure, battery connection, temp, power trim fluid, etc. So then we thought, since the smartcraft gauge screen didnt work, maybe there was a setting or something we were missing. So we sent it to GaugeSaver.com and they advised the gauge was fine, just the LCD was bad. So we lad gauge replaced, ruled that out and now onto another attempt.
 
Here is a picture of what was unplugged. The tag says diagnostic/depth finder.
When we unplug this, the alarm doesnt go off and the boat doesn't shut off while we run it.
 

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That's not exactly a w/p wire but is irrelevant for a boat ride. I'm sure your guy can trouble shoot that, he knew to unplug it.
 
That's not exactly a w/p wire but is irrelevant for a boat ride. I'm sure your guy can trouble shoot that, he knew to unplug it.

I need to pull the wiring diagram. It may be that there are a couple of problems. Disconnecting the depth sounder may have stopped an alarm but the engine shutdown is another issue.
 
It is an interesting wiring diagram. The depth finder actually uses the diagnostic port as a data connection. That would suggest that either the depth finder transducer is faulty or that the problem lies in the SmartCraft system. Since it is an easy test....why doesn't your mechanic plug in a working transducer and see if the problem goes away?

Sundeck 220 wiring diagram.jpg
 

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