Electrical gurus please

spikedaddy99

spikedaddy99

Well-Known Member
GOLD Sponsor
Jun 11, 2008
2,607
Prentice, Wi
Boat Info
2005 500 DB
Engines
QSM-11
Morning folks,

I replaced my fresh water pump Saturday. Same specs as the old one (5gpm). Snipped 2 wires, respliced 2 wires with shrink fittings, and reconnected water fittings. Since then, 3 times the switch on the panel tripped. Ideas? Could the splices in the shrink fittings be "good", but not "good enough"? Weird it's never happened with the old pump (it was leaking)
 
Could be bad splices or something with the pump (even though it's new). As a test, I'd cut out the old splices, twist the ends together and cover with electrical tape or wire nuts, then see if it still happens.

How long does it take the pump running before it trips the switch?
 
Compare the amp draw of the old vs new pump. Similar GPM pumps should be similar electrically, but the new one may be drawing more amps (might also be because new pump drawing more as it’s not leaking). A bad crimp might contribute…easy to cut and re-crimp them and see if that fixes things. Also check the amperage of the breaker, and as a final step, replace the breaker…they can wear out.
 
About 1/2 way through a shower :p So about 10 minutes. Twice, then it stayed on while we were running home to drain the tank (on purpose b/c winter is coming)
 
It's not a bad splice... unless you crimped the 12 volts and the ground together. :)

Most likely the new pump draws a little more current that the original.
 
There's a lot to consider especially when you say "Snipped 2 wires, respliced 2 wires with shrink fittings".

So I'll state the obvious, you did splice + to + and - to - right? Also look at the pump label and see what the amp rating is, is it lower then the circuit breaker? If it is I'd consider returning and getting another new one. Pumps are not guaranteed to be the same just because of the GPM rating.
 
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How is the water pressure? If the new pump is trying to create more water pressure than the last pump - it will typically draw more current. Most pumps have a pressure adjustment screw on the bottom. You could try reducing the pressure and see if that works for you. As stated above, also worth double checking those two splices/crimps. Are they true crimp/heat shrink - or just heat and watch the solder melt and shrink all at the same time? Im kinda weary of the solder/shrink/all-in-ones..
 
I'm with Marksimon on this one. Tight splices will not draw more current.

Plus you were running with no backpressure while draining the tank to empty it.
 
SKybolt said:
There's a lot to consider especially when you say "Snipped 2 wires, respliced 2 wires with shrink fittings".

So I'll state the obvious, you did splice + to + and - to - right? Also look at the pump label and see what the amp rating is, is it lower then the circuit breaker? If it is I'd consider returning and getting another new one. Pumps are not guaranteed to be the same just because of the GPM rating.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I spliced correctly. I'll go this route next. Unfortunately I threw the leaking pump away to compare amp rating. Anyone with a Shurflo 5gpm pump on a 500/520 know the amp rating of the original pump?
 
spikedaddy99 said:
Yeah, I spliced correctly. I'll go this route next. Unfortunately I threw the leaking pump away to compare amp rating. Anyone with a Shurflo 5gpm pump on a 500/520 know the amp rating of the original pump?
Click to expand...

Just look at the amp rating on the new pump and look at the breaker rating. That will tell the story. If the pump is 10 amps and the breaker is 10 amps then that is an issue and why it would take 10 min to pop the breaker.
 
SKybolt said:
Just look at the amp rating on the new pump and look at the breaker rating. That will tell the story. If the pump is 10 amps and the breaker is 10 amps then that is an issue and why it would take 10 min to pop the breaker.
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
The load should not exceed 80% of the breaker / fuse rating, as general rule of thumb.
 
spikedaddy99 said:
Yeah, I spliced correctly. I'll go this route next. Unfortunately I threw the leaking pump away to compare amp rating. Anyone with a Shurflo 5gpm pump on a 500/520 know the amp rating of the original pump?
Click to expand...


upload_2022-10-19_20-5-46.png
 
Check your amp gauge on your panel to see what the pump is actually drawing. Run the shower, watch the gauge, and see if something goes awry while the water is running.

The other thing that could be happening is that something else could be kicking in and overloading the breaker.
 
The circuit breaker in the panel is/should be a 20 Amp rating.
A bad termination will limit current to the pump but not trip the circuit breaker.
There are only two things likely:
The pump is defective and drawing too much current (that is if the pump current draw is supposed to be the same as the one removed). Look at the placard on the pump motor.
The circuit breaker is at the end of its life and needs to be replaced.

So, if the pump starts and runs and the circuit breaker randomly trips then most likely the breaker is kaput.
 
920richardf said:
I'm at Quarterdeck. We enjoyed many hours on your boat when Jerry A owned it. Scotty's Crew (if I recall correctly) was right across D dock from us.
Click to expand...
And that was the previous name of this boat...Breaker Fatigue. The renaming ceremony was done correctly (and my wife got hammered) Stop in sometime!
 
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