Electric Anchor?

Arminius, I have to ask... I thought you might be kidding about it, but... did you really call MinnKota to ask them if an item that is "meant to out in the weather" was "OK to be out in the weather"?

There's nothing wrong with the Deckhand, per se. But it's meant for much lighter boats than yours.

In addition to the comments about anchoring from the back of the boat being bad seamanship...

-- How do you propose to keep the fishing line-width anchor rode from getting worn through when it rubs up against the drive or the prop?
-- How often do you think you'll be dealing with that little nylon rope getting wrapped around the drive?
-- Do you really want to create a large tripping hazzard on the swim platform? Especially since the place in the water that someone might fall into is occupied by a big black hunk of sharp metal?
-- What's wrong with using a lightweight, but appropriately sized anchor up at the bow?
-- You mentioned a problem with the anchor rode being a pain. You're not wrapping it around your hand/elbow are you? Just let it fall naturally into the designated anchor locker and it will come right back out nicely and easily.

That said... I like Henry's idea! :)
 
Arminius, I have to ask... I thought you might be kidding about it, but... did you really call MinnKota to ask them if an item that is "meant to out in the weather" was "OK to be out in the weather"?

There's nothing wrong with the Deckhand, per se. But it's meant for much lighter boats than yours.

In addition to the comments about anchoring from the back of the boat being bad seamanship...

-- How do you propose to keep the fishing line-width anchor rode from getting worn through when it rubs up against the drive or the prop?
-- How often do you think you'll be dealing with that little nylon rope getting wrapped around the drive?
-- Do you really want to create a large tripping hazzard on the swim platform? Especially since the place in the water that someone might fall into is occupied by a big black hunk of sharp metal?
-- What's wrong with using a lightweight, but appropriately sized anchor up at the bow?
-- You mentioned a problem with the anchor rode being a pain. You're not wrapping it around your hand/elbow are you? Just let it fall naturally into the designated anchor locker and it will come right back out nicely and easily.

That said... I like Henry's idea! :)
Appropriate comments, as I expected from you. Thanks.
On the platform, the winch could be submerged on rapid deceleration. The rep and I concurred that it is better not to energize wet circuits and he noted that minimal current is present even when "off." So, I'll get a CB with a "test" button. The rep saw no problem with salt water but was wrong in OKing it. The manual said it would void the warranty, it is a corrosive electrolyte after all. The winch will be installed on a slide off bracket.
I made a cardboard template and think the size will be OK. The initial dimensions from the web were of the box it comes in.
As to Henry's idea, I'd be happier with a smaller ski boat with a big outboard but Susan always wants to go out on the SeaRay. My old boats were 2-strokes and did smell but there is more to it. She often failed to show or made excuses.

The anchor is for skiing mainly. EG, in the north end of the Lake we are between lakefront owners and the floatplane lanes trying to stay out of the milfoil and remain close to shore where it is calmer. We want to take a break for a few minutes and not float into someone's dock or be diced by a 9 cyl Beaver landing tight like a pro. Pushing a button sounds like it might work. I'd given up but mentioned it to Susan and she liked the idea so it got resurrected. Or downwind of the floating bridge-also, we tend to be territorial and don't give up our claim to the good water.
 
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Why not just get a sea anchor....slow the drift.

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Or a capstan, a crab pot puller and a bucket for the line.
Thrusters and a GPS stabilizer like the oil rigs have.
Turns out MinnKona has a station keeping GPS trolling motor system called Spot-Lock.
 
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I asked Minn Kota, in writing: "Can I install a Minn Kota 1810141 Pontoon DeckHand Electric Anchor Winch on the side of a molded in swim platform of a 20' SeaRay I/O for operation in fresh water near the hull? It will get wet occasionally and that is my concern."
They just replied: "We would not recommend that. It is ok for the deckhand to get moisture on it but you wouldn't want to place it somewhere where it would be directly exposed to water." But then, I'm a lawyer too.

Coincidentally, a fellow lap swimmer at the pool this morning who fishes and shoots, tells me his trolling motor has "spot lock" which is GPS based station keeping! But robots whirr and click and burn through batteries.
 
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Here is a solution that will solve all your issues. It will require modifying the fuel system.

Step 1. Remove fuel cap and hold,
Step 2. While fuel cap is in hand, slide new to you Sea Ray Sundancer under fuel cap,
Step 3. Install old fuel cap on new to you Sea Ray Sundancer.

And just like that the larger boat you are trying to make will be all done.
I thought I might think about a new boat. 20-22' with a V-8 or V-6 OB sounds good but there aren't any in US on 1st pass! Campion or Crownline out of Canada with the latter looking superior. No fishing please! In the US, the souped up 4.3 has replaced the 5.0 but there is no substitute for cu in. An OB needs 6 cyl, especially w/o the torque of the 2-stroke.
 
Installed the Minn-Kota Deckhand 40 on the port side of the swim platform, nestled in against the hull. It should not impact the side of a tall slip and that is the point of the photo looking up the side. The wiring is not complete as yet. I bypassed the internal CB as I have another with an "off" position to put alongside the battery.

Happy with the install, I used pricey West Marine
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SS blade style toggles and headless 1/4" SS all-thread bolts to create lugs emerging from deck. Held the toggle in, inserted the all thread, added flange type nuts big enough not to fall through the 1/2" holes I'd drilled in deck. Then I filled the holes with 5200 marine caulk. I screwed the all-thread into the toggles and left the 1/2" emerging from the deck. Set up overnight and removed the nuts to place the lower winch base in position. The winch slides into it.

Don't need the supplied remote. Push the button and the 20# mushroom falls to the ground and locks. Rock button upward and the line quickly reels in. Great project so far.
 
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Wow. I actually thought this was a joke. I take it all back, for better or for worse.
 
Installed the Minn-Kota Deckhand 40 on the port side of the swim platform, nestled in against the hull. It should not impact the side of a tall slip and that is the point of the photo looking down the side. The wiring is not complete as yet. I bypassed the internal CB as I have another with an "off" position to put alongside the battery.

Happy with the install, I used pricey West Marine View attachment 104895 View attachment 104896 View attachment 104897 View attachment 104898 View attachment 104899 SS blade style toggles and headless 1/4" SS all-thread bolts to create lugs emerging from deck. Held the toggle in, inserted the all thread, added flange type nuts big enough not to fall through the 1/2" holes I'd drilled in deck. Then I filled the holes with 5200 marine caulk. I screwed the all-thread into the toggles and left the 1/2" emerging from the deck. Set up overnight and removed the nuts to place the lower winch base in position. The winch slides into it.

Don't need the supplied remote. Push the button and the 20# mushroom falls to the ground and locks. Rock button upward and the line quickly reels in. Great project so far.
I don't mean to be "that guy" because you've already done it, so this is mostly for anyone else reading this later.

I can't tell from the pic if you used it to glue the plate to the platform, but 5200 is really not the proper sealant material for this type of project. It's bond is stronger than fiberglass and should only be used for things that never ever might possible need to be separated for any reason. A good use for 5200 is a hull to deck joint. A better option would be something like 4200, LifeCalk or LifeSeal. These all have great sealing properties, but will allow parts to be separated later if needed.

Also a great way waterproof any through-deck hole is to epoxy the hole first. Drill the hole oversize for the bolt, fill with epoxy, then redrill the proper size hole. This seals any coring and prevents damage if the sealant leaks. It looks like you have an integrated swim platform where you used toggle bolts, so this method might have been a bit more challenging to execute.
 
I found Vulchem long ago for my challenging exterior home window sealing. The urethane is H2O catalyzed (not just dried like silicone) by moisture in environment. Jim suggested 5200 for this boat project and I was happy to find it is urethane too. The 5200 holds the toggles in place and seals which is excellent. The mounting of the plate is permanent and the winch slides on to and off of it. Structural attachment is by the strong crosswise 1 &1/4" SS toggles which retain the 1/4" SS all thread studs. No deck to plate bonding. This product dries tough and rubbery but I would not call it permanent like epoxy or Bondo. Searay sent me the engineering drawings and I scrutinized the 1&1/4" foam core sandwich after drilling. The 5200 should seal it, I think. My real concern was that the lower layer would compress under the tension of the toggles. However, the nuts on the plate are snug enough and not squishy. Thank you.

Actually, the lower layer is the rough gel coat of the engine compartment. I'm glad I used the toggle bolts though. I spotted the toggles way back up in there while later doing the wiring. Maybe a kid could have held nuts in position while I screwed the bolts in from above. All is well though and the toggles are up against a load bearing surface.
 
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