Dripless seal replacement

Discussion in 'Classic Sea Rays' started by BRIAN RANDALL, Aug 8, 2018.

  1. BRIAN RANDALL

    BRIAN RANDALL New Member

    9
    Jan 6, 2018
    Ventura, CA
    1985 Sea Ray Sundancer Cruiser
    454 Mercruisers
    My 85 340 SD, 454 engines, needs the dripless seals replaced. Yard said the engines have to be pulled. Is this true? Any alternatives to pulling the engines?
     
  2. Siboatguy

    Siboatguy Active Member GOLD Sponsor

    210
    Mar 28, 2016
    Holmdel,NJ
    2005 Sea Ray 320 Sundancer
    Twins V-Drives
    2017 5.7 Mercruisers
    I think if you pull the manifolds and rises on the inside of both motors... And you get a skinny guy he can do it..... I know on my boat i have 05 320 with 350s didn't have to pull the manifolds he was able to squeeze in with them still on... Since u have the bigger motors might have to pull the manifolds....
     
  3. islandsearay

    islandsearay New Member

    20
    Apr 6, 2011
    Puget Sound
    1988 Searay 340 Sundancer, in water and waiting on s
    340-Twin 454's Mercruisers V-drives.
    I have the 7.4 engines in my 1988 340, had some work done in yard on shafts. They pulled shafts back and then did the fix. I do not think you need to pull engines, but you will need to be dry docked. I have the v-drives.
    Considering the dripless, not decided yet as mine are currently doing good.
     
  4. Rod Buster

    Rod Buster New Member

    24
    May 8, 2018
    1985 Sea Ray Sundancer 340
    Twin 454 Mercruiser 340MIE : BW/Velvet 72c v-drives
    I have not personally done it yet, but this can absolutely be done without pulling the engines. That's crazy and I'd be looking for a new mechanic! You should not remove the risers or manifolds either. If anything, you can remove the exhaust pipes to lay further down on the drive housing. This task can also be done in the water, you just need to make sure your bilge pumps are operational and have everything ready to go so you can swap the wraps quickly once they're removed (i.e., wraps cut to length on an angle, I think you need 3 per box).

    Edit: if you actually have aftermarket dripless systems, then you don't need the wraps I mentioned above. Can you confirm you actually have dripless?
     
  5. Bt Doctur

    Bt Doctur Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2010
    New Jersey
    Ex SRV 240 Weekender twin
    in between
    And there is another reason for the good ,old, flax packing
     
  6. fwebster

    fwebster Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor PLATINUM Sponsor

    Oct 6, 2006
    Middle Tennessee ; Panama City Beach, FL
    1996 450DA
    3116 Caterpillars
    Just to be sure we understand the OP's question, if he is just going to replace the lip seal on the front of the Tides seal housing, and IF he already has the extra seal carriers on the shafts and IF there is a fresh seal in the carrier, then the seal can be replaced with the boat in the water and very little water will enter the boat. On an 80's 340DA this will be one bitch of a job and you will skin more meat off every knuckle than said knuckle has if you don't remove the manifold, riser and exhaust pipe off the inboard sides of both engines.

    If, however, he is going to replace the entire seal housing assembly, then the boat has to be out of the water because the props have to be removed and the shafts slid all the way back to the shaft tube just to get the seal housing off of the front end of the shaft. There just isn't enough room to get to the underneath side of the engine to remove and replace the seal unless you remove the inboard exhaust risers, manifolds and exhaust tubes, heck there is less then 6" between the engines so there is no way on earth to get to seal. If the exhaust systems were removed it is still a 12 Advil job.
     
  7. Jac Vanguilder

    Jac Vanguilder New Member

    4
    Aug 1, 2018
    Tampa Bay
    1990 Sea Ray 310 express
    5.7 mercruisers inboard
    Iā€™m looking for replacement shaft seal assembly 1-1/4ā€ to 2-5/8ā€
     

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