Im new to boating and have a dumb question about my drain plug so thanks for being patient. I have a 20 foot seville and a 1/2 inch drain plug ( so says my mechanic) the wierd part is I have a FULL set of sockets both metric and SAE but none fit !! I had to use an adjustable wrench to put the plug in. My MAIN question is the mechanic told me not to over tighten the plug so I first aligned it up and hand tightened it then used the wrench to finish the job. It seemed pretty tight but not ALL of the threads are in the hole, it only went in about 3/4 of the way and then it seemed awefully tight. Should it be in further ?? I took the boat out and the boat is stored in a slip and I have seen zero water in the bilge/engine area but Im afraid if I did this incorrectly the vibrations from the boat might loosen the plug and then I would become the proud owner of a sea ray sub :huh:
Drain Plug
- Thread starter VEGAS RAY
- Start date
sbw1
Well-Known Member
- Oct 10, 2006
- 8,185
- Boat Info
- This is listed in my signature
- Engines
- This is listed in my signature
You should be fine. The reason the tech told you not to over tighten it is the female fitting can rotate in the transom if the plug is over torqued. There is not much water pressure on the plug so you just have to snug it up.
Never tried to use a socket on the plug. I've always just used an adjustable wrench As long as it is tight and not leaking, should not be a problem. Just to make sure you may want to check it before leaving it unattended for a long period. How long would it take to pull the boat up the ramp far enough so you could check the plug? What is peace of mind worth?
Thats exactly what the mecahnic said ! I guess he knows what he is talking about. I know I don't when it comes to boats. Any idea why NONE of the sockets fit this plug ?? Thanks a bunch for the reply. :thumbsup:
wish2fish
Active Member
when he said 1/2" drain plugs he meant the threads were 1/2". Same size that are on 1/2" pipes. These threads are made of brass so they are somewhate flexible and therefore they mate very well and don't require overtightening. I hand tighten mine and then give 1/4 to 1/2 turn with an adjustable wrench.
I have found no leaks. I was just afraid it might not be in far enough and might vibrate loose. It appears to still be tight. As far as the wrench I guess I will continue to use the adjustable. Thanks for your reply.
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,155
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
The threads are NPT or tapered pipe threads. The more you tighten the plug the tighter it gets.
Those plugs usually have square heads as well. You will need an 8 point socket to use a rachet on it....standard is either 6 pt or 12 point.
Those plugs usually have square heads as well. You will need an 8 point socket to use a rachet on it....standard is either 6 pt or 12 point.
Yeah I figured they were tapered but wanted to be sure BTW, how right you are and how dumb of me It does have a square head and does need an 8 point socket. Told you I didn't know what I was talking about. I now hand tighten it then finish it off with an adjustable WITHOUT over tightening it. Thanks a bunch to everyone who replied the advice was great. :smt038
Fishnut
Member
- Jan 30, 2008
- 509
- Boat Info
- 2006 240 Sundancer
- Engines
- 5.0 Mercruiser with Bravo III Drive
I hand tighten mine and that's it and after about 10 minutes you will need a wrench to get it loose. Anyway that's what they make subpumps and insurance for. :grin:
- Oct 4, 2006
- 2,344
- Boat Info
- 2006 300DA Sundancer
- Engines
- 350 Mags / Bravo III
Guys like you were born with "vice grip fingers" ; )
Fishnut
Member
- Jan 30, 2008
- 509
- Boat Info
- 2006 240 Sundancer
- Engines
- 5.0 Mercruiser with Bravo III Drive
No, you just need to drink your beer from a bottle (twist tops for the uninitiated) and not a can. :grin:
- Oct 4, 2006
- 2,344
- Boat Info
- 2006 300DA Sundancer
- Engines
- 350 Mags / Bravo III
Thread sealant should only be needed on tapered pipe threads when the connection is under pressure.
