Door to sedan bridge on Sea Ray 52 not aligned properly

Bobby52

New Member
Feb 3, 2020
4
New Orleans
Boat Info
2006 Sea Ray Sedan Bridge 52
"The Conference Room"
Engines
Twin Cummins Diesels
The door from the cockpit to the sedan bridge (top of stairs) on my Sea Ray 52 Sedan Bridge is slightly out of alignment and seems to be getting worse. The front (towards bow) hit the deck when we close it and then slides in tightly while the rear (towards stern) has about 1/4 inch or more of space. I have tried loosening the screws/nuts and trying to manually adjust it but the holes are fixed so that did not work. I would welcome any ideas. Thanks.
 
My suggestion requires two people to do it properly. Close the door and remove all the screws on the door. Install wood shims to set the door in the opening with equal spacing around all four sides and holding it tightly in place. Then let the hinge lay down on the door and re-drill the holes which will probably somewhat overlap the original holes. I would by the “tooth” style locking washers and have someone install the washer and nuts from below while you are essentially stuck on the bridge until the hinges are re-installed. The tooth style washer should dig into the door and hold it in place being the holes will now be elongated. Any tiny portion of the original hole that is slightly exposed can be filled with caulk.
 
My suggestion requires two people to do it properly. Close the door and remove all the screws on the door. Install wood shims to set the door in the opening with equal spacing around all four sides and holding it tightly in place. Then let the hinge lay down on the door and re-drill the holes which will probably somewhat overlap the original holes. I would by the “tooth” style locking washers and have someone install the washer and nuts from below while you are essentially stuck on the bridge until the hinges are re-installed. The tooth style washer should dig into the door and hold it in place being the holes will now be elongated. Any tiny portion of the original hole that is slightly exposed can be filled with caulk.

Great advice, especially the tooth style washers. I would only add, to use nyloc nuts if they are not already being used.
 
Thank you Cod and Techmitch. I had considered re-drilling the holes but was hoping for an easier way. Actually, I really appreciate the suggestion about the tooth style locking washers. That solves one of my concerns related to drilling the holes. I believe we have nyloc nuts but will check. Also a good suggestion. Thank you both!
 
I'm wondering how that door can get out of alignment. The only way I can think of is one of the hinges are broken or seriously tweeked…. or worse yet there is breakage in the composite supporting structure. Thoughts?
 
Fiberglass moves with weight & heat especially from the greenhouse effect with all the isinglass you/we have on the bridge. It’s not uncommon for boats sitting on the bard during the winter or long periods of time having stern odors like on a Sundance swim platform to the cockpit to move.

You might be better off to fill all the holes and let them harden up completely. Then center the door as suggested and drill through the fiberglass using the hinge plate to spot your new holes. This will take a little longer but should provide a cleaner finish. I as well like the idea of the tooth style washers to add horizontal strength to the project.

Just so you know mine has settled and moved some as well predominately from standing in the open position which places more load on the door from the vertical weight. Not enough of an issue that I consider making any change to it presently.
 

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