DIY Holding Tank Vent Filter $cheap

Midnightsun

New Member
Jan 9, 2010
23
Montreal, Canada
Boat Info
1997 3255 Avanti,
Northstar M84/Smartcraft, Kohler 5E, Intellian Satellite.
Engines
Twin Mercruiser 383 Mag MPI/Bravo II
You know that unpleasant stench you sometimes get from the vent on your holding tank? Normally it happens when you least want it and this little device already proven to work extremely well as it can be purchased at West Marine for the ridiculous amount of $99
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...8?&cid=chanintel&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=39688

Only problem is it lasts about a year and then needs to be replaced for the much cheaper price of $94 since you keep the fittings on the end and only replace the center cartridge. How nice of them!! In reality, it is only a tube with Activated carbon in it which absorbs the odour.

You will need to purchase the following.

From Home Depot or any hardware store

A 12" length of 2" abs plumbing pipe
(here I had to by a 3, length @ $5.67)

2 pieces, 2" abs slip x 2" female pipe thread fitting @ $1.46 ea

2 pieces, abs 2"MPT cap @ $0.82

2 pieces, 1/2" NPT x 3/4" PEX
I went all out on expenses for this one and paid $2.50 each for these solid br*** babies. The PEX style fitting works better than a traditionally used barb as it is easier to remove the hose from the fitting when the unit needs recharging. However, if you are on a tight budget, they are available in plastic which would be 1/2" npt male x 1/2" male barb. Yes, even though vent lines are 5/8" the 1/2" barb works very well and is easier to reomve. These cost $0.54 each

2 pieces gear clamps @ $0.30 each

you will also need some foam cut to size to prevent the carbon from falling into the vent line.

In the picture below you can see all the parts I listed above

a2pspd.jpg



Next step would be to drill out the end cap with a 3/4" bit. Once drilled, you need to run a 1/2" NPT tap through it so you can screw in the hose adapter, Note the material of the cap is quit thick and makes for a very sturdy connection once tightened down.


245kiuv.jpg



The next step would be to cut the foam pieces which prevent the carbon from falling out the ends. This is easily done by standing the 12" pipe vertically on the foam and tracing with a felt marker then cutting it out with scissors. This works very well as the foam should be a little bigger in order to get a good snug fit.


2rrnryv.jpg



Now take the 2 slip x pipe fittings and using abs cement glue them to the 12" pipe


2niwswx.jpg



Now take one of the foam pieces and push it into one end so that you will end up about flush with the cap when it is screwed on.


2akej5v.jpg


Screw cap on snugly by hand (no need to wrench on this) The flip around and fill with activated carbon to about 1" from where the bottom of the foam will sit, insert second foam piece and hand tighten the remaining cap in place. Here is the finished product


5vngug.jpg



This is a very simple installation. All you need to do is locate the holding tank vent line, cut it in an easily accessible area and insert the tube attaching it with the tube clamps. You may want to attach the tube depending on where it is located. The carbon will last a year and is easily replaced by removing the unit, removing the foam, spilling out the old carbon and filling up with new. Almost forgot, you can buy activated carbon at almost any pet store as it is commonly used in aquarium filtration but you cal also find it on ebay for much cheaper. Here is an example which should be good for about 5 years of refills.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Activated-carbo...ultDomain_0?hash=item27ae7e78fe#ht_500wt_1182

Your dock neighbours will thank you, Happy flushing.
 
That will work also but mine is about $100 cheaper. :grin:
 
Just a side note here.

The filter is by no means meant to keep you from properly maintaining your holding tank with whatever product/method works best for you. I do shock it and throughly rinse it every fall before lay up and also shock and rinse in spring at launch. (shock=fancy word for pouring in 1/2 gallon of bleach and some water, agitating it and letting it work for a good 1/2 day before flushing out)

Even with proper care I occasionally get "THE SMELL" and this is what the filter is meant to hide.

FYI, I tried a different holding tank product last year and it really seems to work extremely well. Available at Walmart at less than 1/2 the cost of any other stuff I have ever seen. Here is a link to the product which costs about $6 at Walmart. Before you ask, it says on the bottle "Safe for all pipes, Boats and RV's" http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/5...r-septic-treatment-and-drain-care-124816.aspx

EDIT: DO NOT USE BLEACH IF YOU HAVE A VACUFLUSH SYSTEM
 
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Thank you for posting this. I will add it to my DIY list.
 
How do you get bleach in your holding tank?

With a side kick like "Head & Potty stirrer" you are asking me this?? :grin: Pretty simple, pour it down the pumpout socket. :wow:

The tank should be freshly emptied, then fill to about 3/4 full with fresh water, then add 1/2 gallon of bleach. Best is to drive around a bit to agitate everything and later in the day go for a standard pump out. Now your tank is fresh and ready for the season with normal addition of standard holding tank products. :thumbsup:

EDIT: DO NOT USE BLEACH IF YOU HAVE A VACUFLUSH SYSTEM
 
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Well... I ask because every time I hear "pour xxx down the deck pump out fitting," I am always brought back to when I have tried to put fresh water down that fitting and it always backflows and makes a mess. This is how my Sea Ray is plumbed:

plumbing.jpg


Now... you can see from the physics of this, pouring a lot of water down the discharge can not happen with the flow rate of a hose... The plumbing with the loop can hold well over a gallon of water/flush so all people are doing is flushing the discharge hose and not the tank. If you don't believe me, put a hose in your pump out fitting and turn it on full steam... it'll look like ole' faithful in no time... Now other boats may be plumbed without that gravity loop but that's how my Sea Ray is done.

The other BIG issue is if you have a macerator for an under boat discharge, there are rubber duckbills and bellows that will be exposed to the bleach you just poured in because that y-connector lets anything in the pumpout hose get to the macerator... even if the seacock is closed...

so your bleach idea just destroyed a macerator... :wow: (I had to use that emoticon just for you)

...and that will cost more than your vent filter. How do I know this? I did it.

Oh... one other thing... There are a few on this forum that think you can put ice down that pumpout fitting and let that slosh around in the tank. I'm not really sure how they get ice down that tube either... Unless they have figured out how ice can go uphill and come out the bottom of the drip tube inside the tank. Or they could just be BS'ing everyone.
 
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That link you posted to the holding tank chemical you use is bad.
 
Everyone should also be careful with stuff that just says "safe for all pipes"... That does NOT mean it is safe for a marine system that has all kinds of rubber valves and seals in it.

Drano is safe for all pipes... it'll destroy your marine vacuflush system.
 
Maybe "some" systems are different but every holding tank I have ever seen (dozens) has a hose going from the bottom of the tank to the pump out outlet. The head is pumped into a separate line directly into the top of the tank. I have a macerator and it is also plumbed independently into the bottom of the tank to a discharge outlet

Yours seems to be different in the fact your macerator discharges below the water line and probably why it has loops and duckbills and weird complicated configurations that will most likely be troublesome. (read much easier to clog) The way you have it drawn up, you are relying entirely on the duckbill to hold the load when using a pumpout machine which we all know can and does create a heck of a vacuum. A duckbill is rubber and IMHO would implode. I'm not saying it's not plumbed that way, just that you must be missing something in your sketch.

Why is it common to have the pumpout boy rinse the tank via the pumpout outlet after a pumpout for a rinse and then pump out again? This is how I have always seen it done at all pumpout stations I have been to. Just sounds strange that you cannot pour water down yours is all I'm really trying to say.
 
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Did you miss the part where it says it is safe for boats. :smt001
 
Maybe "some" systems are different but every holding tank I have ever seen (dozens) has a hose going from the bottom of the tank to the pump out outlet. The head is pumped into a separate line directly into the top of the tank. I have a macerator and it is also plumbed independently into the bottom of the tank to a discharge outlet

Yours seems to be different in the fact your macerator discharges below the water line and probably why it has loops and duckbills and weird complicated configurations that will most likely be troublesome. (read much easier to clog) The way you have it drawn up, you are relying entirely on the duckbill to hold the load when using a pumpout machine which we all know can and does create a heck of a vacuum. A duckbill is rubber and IMHO would implode. I'm not saying it's not plumbed that way, just that you must be missing something in your sketch.

Well.. I've seen lots of boats too... and if you are working with a vacuflush system and their tanks, they don't put outlets on the bottom... Can you post a link of ANY company that sells a holding tank with a connection on the bottom? You know why they don't put them there? Because if the fitting leaks or the hose needs to be replaced, you'll have a huge MESS on your hands. That's why they put all the fittings on the top of these tanks and put drip tubes to the bottom internal to the tanks.

With regards to the macerator plumbing... that is the way it is plumbed... if you leave the seacock open and do a pump out, you have the possibility of inverting the duckbills.. That is why you need to have the seacock closed when doing a pump out. That sketch is not a "poor" or "complicated" design. It works... That is how Sealander designed it.
 
Well... I ask because every time I hear "pour xxx down the deck pump out fitting," I am always brought back to when I have tried to put fresh water down that fitting and it always backflows and makes a mess. This is how my Sea Ray is plumbed:

plumbing.jpg


Now... you can see from the physics of this, pouring a lot of water down the discharge can not happen with the flow rate of a hose... The plumbing with the loop can hold well over a gallon of water/flush so all people are doing is flushing the discharge hose and not the tank. If you don't believe me, put a hose in your pump out fitting and turn it on full steam... it'll look like ole' faithful in no time... Now other boats may be plumbed without that gravity loop but that's how my Sea Ray is done.

The other BIG issue is if you have a macerator for an under boat discharge, there are rubber duckbills and bellows that will be exposed to the bleach you just poured in because that y-connector lets anything in the pump out hose get to the macerator... even if the seacock is closed...

so your bleach idea just destroyed a macerator... :wow: (I had to use that emoticon just for you)

...and that will cost more than your vent filter. How do I know this? I did it.

Oh... one other thing... There are a few on this forum that think you can put ice down that pump out fitting and let that slosh around in the tank. I'm not really sure how they get ice down that tube either... Unless they have figured out how ice can go uphill and come out the bottom of the drip tube inside the tank. Or they could just be BS'ing everyone.


I see what you are saying in your case Gary. Pouring bleach down your deck fitting would be a major no-no.

On my 390, the waste is pumped into the top of the waste tank. There used to be a "Tee" fitting on the bottom of the tank. One side of the "Tee" went up to the deck pump out fitting and the other side of the "Tee" went to the macerator pump. Some time ago, I removed the "Tee" and replaced it with a 90 degree elbow that goes up to the deck pump out fitting. In my setup, I would be able to introduce a bleach solution into my tank without any repercussions.

I now use the macerator pump as a wash down pump.

~Ken
 
I guess the more modern boats nuked the "put pumpout fitting on the bottom" thing...
 
That will work also but mine is about $100 cheaper. :grin:

Hans, why is your way $100 less than Ken's way?

Don't get me wrong, you made a good post about a crappy subject. I just don't want to see any readers misinformed.

This filter must be a popular subject at the docks, right now... Here's another similar post from about a week ago http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26362
 
Well.. I've seen lots of boats too... and if you are working with a vacuflush system and their tanks, they don't put outlets on the bottom... Can you post a link of ANY company that sells a holding tank with a connection on the bottom? You know why they don't put them there? Because if the fitting leaks or the hose needs to be replaced, you'll have a huge MESS on your hands. That's why they put all the fittings on the top of these tanks and put drip tubes to the bottom internal to the tanks.

With regards to the macerator plumbing... that is the way it is plumbed... if you leave the seacock open and do a pump out, you have the possibility of inverting the duckbills.. That is why you need to have the seacock closed when doing a pump out. That sketch is not a "poor" or "complicated" design. It works... That is how Sealander designed it.

Well I challenge you to find me a holding tank that does not have an outlet on the bottom. :smt100 Lets not get into a rumble here. The difference is most likely the vacuflush which you are talking about and a conventional which I am talking about. :wink: Look up holding tank for boats and this is what you will find. Notice they all have a fitting on the bottom. http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...lding Tanks&categoryId=650&refine=1&page=GRID

In a conventional system there is no need to close any valves, just pump out. Thanks for the info on how a vacuflush works. Learn something new every day. :thumbsup:
 
Hans, why is your way $100 less than Ken's way?

Don't get me wrong, you made a good post about a crappy subject. I just don't want to see any readers misinformed.

This filter must be a popular subject at the docks, right now... Here's another similar post from about a week ago http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26362

Because you need to buy the original product first which costs $100. Obviously if you already have one, it would be just as effective and not be any cheaper to modify your existing as shown in Ken's link.
 
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