discharge old water

[Captain Imperfecto]

I have a 2001 Sea Ray Sun Sport 290 For the life of me I can't figure out how to discharge the old water so I may add fresh water to the tank I don't know to activate the water in the cabin or bar. Also how often does those tanks need to be flushed out and how do you treat the tanks from contamination? Thanks all.

Sea Ray owner and new to forum.

 

[JimG]

Turn your fresh water pump on and open all faucets... run the tank dry.

How often to flush depends on how often you use it. I use mine and refill every weekend so I don't need to treat it. There are treatments that you can buy... some people just use light doses of bleach.

Welcome to CSR!

 

[SloBurn]

Open all faucets, and add a cup of bleach to tank. Fill tank and empty through faucets 3 times, or until chlorine is no longer detectable by nose or taste. That's what I used to do to my fresh water tanks, which held 24 gals.

 

[BryanOnTheBay]

I have a 2001 Sea Ray Sun Sport 290 For the life of me I can't figure out how to discharge the old water so I may add fresh water to the tank I don't know to activate the water in the cabin or bar. Also how often does those tanks need to be flushed out and how do you treat the tanks from contamination? Thanks all.

Sea Ray owner and new to forum.

I would put a couple of cups of bleach, let it sit (even run the boat and let it agitate ) and flush the water a few times. Make sure the pump screen (between the tank and the pump) is cleaned to start, and then check it every so often while you are running it out.

As to running your water, that isn't obvious. I downloaded your manual from SeaRay, and ended up having to search through the wiring diagrams to find it. I think your water pump is on ACCY 1 on the starboard control panel. Push that and see if you hear the pump start running. If not, check the breaker located below the shifter. (See p 48 of your manual which is the wiring diagram showing it to be pin 1 of the Fwd EIM harness. Then page 47, which is the EIM wiring schematic shows pin 1 to go to ACCY 1. Lastly, p 36 shows ACCY 1 to be on the right hand control panel) this was NOT. A straightforward or obvious thing. Good luck!

Bryan

 

[Gofirstclass]

Let me add my suggestions and minor corrections to the comments above.

Add a cup of bleach and fill your water tank about half full. Turn on your water pump then open one faucet at a time until you can smell the bleach coming out. After you've opened each faucet, let the whole system sit for 24 hours. Then pump all of the bleach/water out. Fill the tank, pump that out. Fill the tank, pump that out. If you still smell the bleach, do it again until you don't smell any bleach coming out.

Then fill the water tank and you should be good to go.

 

[Seattle Steve]

A similar question:

I am attempting to flush pinkish water (obviously, antifreeze) out of my various water lines in the boat. It was all going fairly well after a few tans filled and emptied, until I turned on the hot water heater and started running hot water through the lines, at which point it turned very pink and frothy again.

It makes me wonder a few things:

Should I just keep filling and flushing the tank, or is it worth purchasing some kind of tank flush solution (West Marine has one, for example).

Is it a matter of water taste and personal tolerance, or is there some specific benchmark I should try to hit in terms of flushing (i.e. X number of gallons)?

I am clueless, having never owned a boat that has this kind of spring de-winterizing needs.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

 

[NorCal Boater]

+1 on all of the above but I will add one step. The big boat holds 200 gallons and does not have a direct water inlet. I fill my tanks through a whole house water filter I purchased at Home Depot. I change the cartridge every 6 months. I have it mounted permanently on the water supply at my slip and I have 2 so one is for washing the boat and the other is for just filling the tanks. However, got used to drinking bottled water so the tank water is for the heads, brushing teeth, washing dishes watering dogs and once in a while I wrap some around a bit of bourbon.

 

[estoltz]

A similar question:

I am attempting to flush pinkish water (obviously, antifreeze) out of my various water lines in the boat. It was all going fairly well after a few tans filled and emptied, until I turned on the hot water heater and started running hot water through the lines, at which point it turned very pink and frothy again.

It makes me wonder a few things:

Should I just keep filling and flushing the tank, or is it worth purchasing some kind of tank flush solution (West Marine has one, for example).

Is it a matter of water taste and personal tolerance, or is there some specific benchmark I should try to hit in terms of flushing (i.e. X number of gallons)?

I am clueless, having never owned a boat that has this kind of spring de-winterizing needs.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

It sounds like they filled your water heater with pink. On our rv there are bypasses. Flush the water heater and it will clear. If you use a flush solution you will have to get that stuff out of the lines anyway.

 

[BryanOnTheBay]

It sounds like they filled your water heater with pink. On our rv there are bypasses. Flush the water heater and it will clear. If you use a flush solution you will have to get that stuff out of the lines anyway.

+1

just keep running it until the water is clear and palatable. Next year, just blow out your fresh water system through the city water hook up, after emptying the tank, with one of these:

Camco 36143 Blow Out Plug with Brass Quick Connect
by Camco
Link: http://amzn.com/B002XL2IEA

and a compressor. When spring comes, you just put water in your tank. Even if you use a bypass on the heater, you still need to make sure all the water is out, so you should still blow it out.

Bryan

 

[Lazy Daze]

Steve - drain the tank first. Then fill the tank while still leaving the drain open. When it looks clear, then close the drain, fill and flush the lines out. You might need to use a little bleach in the system. There's multiple ways to accomplish flushing, but there's a good step-by-step already listed in the Atwood manual.

Bryan - to save yourself some time, there's absolutely no reason to blow the tank out. Draining/emptying it is all that's needed - just like the fresh water and black water tanks. You can certainly blow it out if you want, but it's really just a waste of time and serves no purpose.

 

[BryanOnTheBay]

Steve - drain the tank first. Then fill the tank while still leaving the drain open. When it looks clear, then close the drain, fill and flush the lines out. You might need to use a little bleach in the system. There's multiple ways to accomplish flushing, but there's a good step-by-step already listed in the Atwood manual.

Bryan - to save yourself some time, there's absolutely no reason to blow the tank out. Draining/emptying it is all that's needed - just like the fresh water and black water tanks. You can certainly blow it out if you want, but it's really just a waste of time and serves no purpose.

Dennis,

Are you referring to the fresh water tank? That I just run out first, before I blow out the system. I blow the remainder out of the hot water heater after draining it, but that is because I am worried about water sitting in the fittings, not in the drained heater itself which is curved. Can you even blow the water tank out? It is sitting on the other side of the pump from the water inlet, and I thought that the pump held the pressure on the outlet side of the system.

Bryan