Disc Surge brakes

[FYN409]

Ok after all of the talk a few weeks ago about disc surge brakes and how well they are working for others, I paid more attention to mine this weekend. I do not feel they are working as well as they should. The trailer I have is a 2005 Four Winns. It is a dual axle and only the rear axle has brakes (disc). When trailering it is hard to stop. I was even able to briefly lock up my front brakes on my truck while testing them.

After a while of driving and testing, I go back and check the rotors, and while the rust is cleared off, they are just barley warm (while the truck brakes are almost smoking). This leads me to believe they are not working as they should. I have considered adding brakes to the other axle, but right now it appears that these are not working to their fullest potential. Does anyone have any ideas? Is there some sort of adjustment?

I have checked the master cylinder and the fluid is right up there at the top. There is a lot of pad left on the brakes. The tong does move in and out when slowing down, and then taking off. Any thoughts?

Ryan

 

[H2ONUT]

I would try bleeding them first. Possible that the caliper is frozen also.

I just put my kit on and haven't towed yet, Wednesday night I'm taking it to fit the boat to the trailer.

 

[Quint4]

Jack up one side of the trailer..spin the wheel and use a big screw driver wedge it up in the coupler and push the actuator back. Do this for each side and see if the brakes are working. I totally rebuilt my surge brakes last spring and both of my wheel cylinders were shot. There is a star adjuster on the back of the hub assembly if you feel they are not working as much as they should.

 

[FYN409]

This adjustment, is it on the back of the caliper, or do I need to take the wheel off to get to it?

-Ryan

 

[midway]

I think that star adjuster he is referring to is for drum brakes and not disc brakes. Disc brake calipers clamp the pads to the rotor, the rotor then pushes the pads back on the first revolution of the wheel. Check to see if they are working, then check the caliper slides for corrosion or extremely dirty preventing them from working. This normally would show up after brakes applied and they would not want to release.

 

[Quint4]

yep sorry...star adjuster is for drum brakes.

 

[FYN409]

Found the problem!! This weekend before going out I did a once over on the trailer and found that the quick disconnect fitting (swing away toung) for the brake line was pulled back and the fitting was partially out. I did not think this was the problem as I did not see any fluid leaking, but got out on the road and tried it and "We have brakes!!". :grin: They work, but not quite as well as I would expect, so next thing will be to bleed them as who knows how long that fitting was loose.

-Ryan

 

[H2ONUT]

:thumbsup: Gotta love the easy fixes...

 

[jamfred]

How are you guys bleeding your brakes on these trailers? I have surge brakes on mine and I dont think they are working properly either. Very old trailer and I know it needs some TLC. I have drum brakes on both axels. Sorry to steal the thread.

 

[Beer Thirty]

I'm wondering the same thing. I'm thinking use a pry bar to activate the coupler like you would a foot on a brake pedal. :huh:

Then bleed them like normal brakes.

 

[Just Right]

I've had a few trailers (RV, Boat, Utility) with tandems. Usually it had brakes on all four wheels, a couple had brakes only on the front axle. I am guessing that part of your problem maybe that when braking, there is more weight on the front axle. IE, your rear-axle brakes don't have enough weight/contact with the road to provide any braking for your rig.

Maybe?

 

[ChuckW]

Besides all the bleeding and caliper inspections, I found that on my new trailer the tounge assembly, while moving in and out, didn't do it easily enough. We greased the assembly and it made a world of difference in how smooth it would engage and disengage. Mine has grease nipples on the side of the tounge built into the through bolts. No more banging when taking off after a stop either.

For those wondering, those are splay arms for my weight distribution hitch. Yes, I have a setup of surge breaks and weight distribution arms that actually works and works well. Notice the bars lay on the tray and slide back and forth with the surge action.

 

[jamfred]

Besides all the bleeding and caliper inspections, I found that on my new trailer the tounge assembly, while moving in and out, didn't do it easily enough. We greased the assembly and it made a world of difference in how smooth it would engage and disengage. Mine has grease nipples on the side of the tounge built into the through bolts. No more banging when taking off after a stop either.

For those wondering, those are splay arms for my weight distribution hitch. Yes, I have a setup of surge breaks and weight distribution arms that actually works and works well. Notice the bars lay on the tray and slide back and forth with the surge action.

Chuck

You wouldnt possibly have a picture of the grease nipples do you? It looks like we have the same surge setup and I am not sure where to grease it.

Thanks

Jamie

 

[ChuckW]

Chuck

You wouldnt possibly have a picture of the grease nipples do you? It looks like we have the same surge setup and I am not sure where to grease it.

Thanks

Jamie

I don't have access to it right now (I'm in MA and it's in FL), but here is an edited picture of the original I posted.

Notice the 3 red lines I added. These bolts have the grease nipples on the opposite side on mine.

 

[jamfred]

I just looked at mine and unfortunately it doesnt have the greese zerks on them. Looks like I will have to disassemble the whole thing to grease it....

 

[jamfred]

Well I took apart the assembly and it was pretty much locked up. The brake fluid resoviour was empty and the rollers were frozen. Got it all loosened up but I still need to get the brakes working. I noticed that you can disconnect the shocks inside the unit and it will allow you to push and pull on it providing enough leverage to prime the brakes to bleed them. I will be working on this tomorrow and will report how it goes. I need to get this finished up because it is extremely difficult to stop this thing while pulling with a Tacoma