Diesel Boat Winterization Checklist

Skip

Well-Known Member
Oct 5, 2006
1,085
Potomac River/Chesapeake Bay
Boat Info
07 58 DB
Truly Blessed IV

2010 Nautica 12' RIB, 40HP Yamaha
Engines
MAN CRM 900s
This very topic depresses me, but I have begun the initial planning for winterization. Still plan to run until mid November, but it will go by fast. Stopped by Wal Mart. Rotella T is still $8.88 a gallon. I also got -50 degree pink RV/Marine Antifreeze for $3.48/gallon, Diesel 9-1-1 for $8.84 for 32 oz bottle, and purchased enough Power Service Diesel Kleen to treat 600 more gallons of fuel, or what I expect to burn this month and next. (Maybe more)
Also, here is my winterization checklist, which was built from the great list that xravenx provided me a while back:

Winterize the Boat
Fresh water system and heads
Purge water from lines
Bow anchor wash down
Master stateroom sink, toilet, shower
Vacuflush suggests spraying the rubber seal in the bottom of the head bowl with a little silicon spray to prevent it from sticking in the winter and tearing during recommissioning in the spring
Galley sink
Galley sink hand sprayer
Guest stateroom sink, toilet, shower
Cockpit wetbar sink
Ice maker
Wondshield washers
Engine room wash down
Hot water heater and hot water lines
Transom shower
Transom wash down inside trunk
City water connection. must force pink stuff in here as well
Air conditioners
Purge fresh water from lines
Fill lines and compressors with antifreeze
Clean a/c filters
Add a small amount of hydrogen peroxide to AC pans to prevent mold/mildew
Toilets and holding tank
Fill sewer lines with antifreeze
Empty holding tank and fill (partial) with antifreeze
Onan Generator
Change oil and filter
Remove impeller
Drain all water from cooling system
Fill with anti freeze
Change zinc in heat exchanger
Change fluid in transmissions
Clean ZF Filters in mineral spirits and inspect metal debris
Cummins Diesels
Change oil and filters
Change RACOR elements
Change primary diesel filters
Change coolant filters
Change zincs in aftercoolers
Clean AIRSEP elements
Drain all water from cooling system and fill with antifreeze
Remove impellers
Spot paint rust on engines
Boat exterior
Wash boat
Wax boat
Inspect porthole windows and hatches for leaks and adjust as required
Tighten fittings and fasteners
Re-caulk seams as required
Clean all stainless steel
Inspect and adjust life line tension
Inspect windlass and tighten clutch
Inspect all running lights and change bulbs as required
Inspect and tighten radar connections
Boat interior
Clean carpets
Wash and replace carpet runners
Defrost and clean refrigerator and freezer
Clean out microwave
Clean out cabinets (all)
Unpack unnecessary gear
Clean shower sump
Clean shower sump pump automatic float switch
Add antifreeze to shower sump
Inspect pump operation
Engine room
Tighten all hose clamps and replace as needed
Scrub decking
Canvas
Remove and clean all isenglass, treat with 303 and hang in basement
Remove and clean all canvas, treat with 303 and hang in basement
Replace missing snaps
Lubricate zippers
Sub contract repair of canvas as required
Shrink Wrap Boat

Someday I will live in a place where this drill is unnecessary. oh well.

regards
Skip
 
very nice list. You forgot the "clean cheerios and crushed potato chips from salon area" item.
 
OK... on the serious side....

Why do you add antifreeze to the raw water cooling circuit instead of just draining it? I know on my QSM-11's, there is a drain plug at the base of the aftercooler, transmission cooler, fuel cooler, and at the base of the sea strainers. It seems pretty straight forward to close off the seacocks and then remove all the raw water from the system... Removing the impellers will drain a lot of it. I've never done it (like you sissy boys in the north bay) but saw the instructions in my cummins manual. Why leave the saltwater in the system instead of just draining it all out and leave the zincs out for the winter? Continuing on that thread, all my seastrainers have drains at the bottom (little plug with square bolt head) and it seems all of the raw water systems should be drained instead of the addition of antifreeze?

Also... what about the lift mufflers? Do you have to get antifreeze in them babies?
 
That is a weekly task. I've ordered my quantum phase buffers with duo cores, and will install as you have done. What are you seeing regarding overall improvement in overhead redundometer deflection?

I will try to find a checklist to winterize your six Hondas.

regards
Skip
 
Skip said:
That is a weekly task. I've ordered my quantum phase buffers with duo cores, and will install as you have done. What are you seeing regarding overall improvement in overhead redundometer deflection?

You drain the raw water system on a weekly basis?! wow...

I don't have the quantum phase buffers but the multiplex phase buffers.... big difference... pal...
 
If you need antifreeze, you are storing your boat WAY too far North. Along about November 1, head SOUTH. It's MUCH easier on your constitution.
 
I'm getting depressed just thinking about it.

Larry, what will you do about a cover for the winter.... I thought about staying in the water in the Inner Harbor, but I HATE the idea of leaving the bridge canvas/plastic exposed to the weather/UV for all that time. Seems like you'd be cutting the useful lifespan in half (at least).

Also, my father kept his boat in the water for 18 straight years before he retired, and he didn't winterize the boat (engines anyway) the last ten years with no problems. Now he's one of those annoying people that just heads to the Keys in the winter.

P.S. I hate you, Frank! :grin: :grin: :grin:
 
Tim,

I hope thats "Florida Frank" you are referring to!!! :smt043 All this winterization talk is getting me depressed.

On a serious note....huh??...I actually can deal with the boat being out of the water for a few months. My wife reminds me that there is more to life than the boat (what does she know??), but for at least a while, I accrue "atta boys" by indulging her with stupid stuff like flower shows, and theater, and dinners at fancy restaurants, and dumb stuff like that! :smt101

Then....before you know it, its March and the fun begins anew!!!
 
Gary,
Cleaning crumbs is a weekly task. You out blogged me there.

I close the seacocks, put the thoro flush cap on the strainer, attach a hose, and run pink stuff through the mains. This ensures that the transmission cooling lines, dripless shaft seal water lines, etc. are all protected. Worked well last year-

Skip
 
Sassafras Frank- yes it was Florida Frank I was referring to. He knows I have the utmost respect for him anyway!

As far as a "few months off" I actually kind of agree with you... our life from April to November is working and going to the boat. And then comes football season and the holidays. The admiral is hell bent on adding on to and redoing the kitchen, and my "honey do" list is approaching four pages at this point, so I need some "non-boat time" to get that all together...

Plus, as bad as the coming of the Winter is (and it IS bad), the coming of Spring is ten times better!
 
"Non-Boat Time" should be countered with an equivalent amount of "Non-Land Time".

Huh. My wife would know better than to suggest such heresy as "Non-Boat Time".
 
Tim, regarding the bridge enclosure over winter, I haven't really started to think about that one. Maybe a canvas cover for the "dash," bring down the carpet and cushions and isinglass, and leave the rest exposed? The bridge would get pretty dirty that way, though. Or have a canvas enclosure made? That's going to cost a few bucks, I bet :smt009

I'm going to ask around the marina and see what some of these smarter folks think.
 
I saw 50 degree pink stuff at Boater's World for $2.99 a gallon. That's a lot of money for what is essentially soapy water. Anyone seen it for less?

Skip, have you had good experience with Rotella? That's a good price for motor oil :thumbsup:
 
A small tear is forming in my left eye....

FrankW, Surely you remember Winter Storage my friend.

Her eis your check list:

1. Go to the closet in house and get out the old moth eaten sweather and the Mustang Storm coat and rain pants
2. Take them to the boat and store them in the wet locker.

There ya go ... you're winterized!

Bit it all came back you didn't it?
 
Larry, this is my first full season running Shell Rotella T. I filled to the top of the safe range on my dipstick, which I guesss I was not supposed to do, so I used 2 quarts in each engine in the first 100 hours this year. The more experienced diesel guys advise to fill only to the mid range on the dipstick. I intend to do that when I winterize.
Otherwise, we have run 135 hours so far this year, trouble free.
Except for errant ragboters, but that is another thread.
regards
Skip
 
I've used Rotella T for years. I have reports from every change that indicate positive results.
 
So Skip, Tell me more about this "do not fill to the top range on the dipstick", this is the first I have heard of that. I have always used what Cummins Recommended (Valvoline Premuim Blue), maybe I will go to WalMart and get a few cases of the Shell Rotella, hard to beat that per gallon price. Fall oil-change coming up in a month or so.....Gona be in the 80's here in MI this week.
 

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