Didn't change the oil prior...

ghuskin

New Member
Jul 10, 2007
1,089
Lake St. Clair, DYC
Boat Info
SRV225 Cuddy Cabin, 1983
Engines
228 Mercruiser w/ pre-Alpha1 "R" Drive
Did not change the engine oil prior to winterization. the tech at the marina where we are storing the boat said that if the oil looked like oil, there is no water, and that I should be fine over the winter. the boat will be indoors, not heated. Their winterization was to fog motor, drain block & add anti-freeze, check outdrive for water and inspect bellows.

Should I be concerned, or not worry?

thanking all in advance.

P.S. I am going Saturday to change the fuel/water separator and fuel inlet filter.
 
My mechanic says that even if the oil looks good, it may have corrosive compounds in it from being used, and it's best to change before storage.
 
Merc manaual indicates to change oil.......I believe it is called oxcillyic acid that is created from moisture in the oil and can certainly cause corrosion of the engine internals over storage.

I am sure there is someone more versed on this than me but I have ALWAYS read that it should be changed prior to layup.
Are they an authorized Merc service center?
 
I wouldn't be too concerned at this point since the boat is winterized, but like everyone else said it is best to change the oil in the fall so it's clean and all contaminents are gone. I recommend you change it in the spring and then again next fall and every fall from that point on.

I also recommend you get a new mechanic that knows what he is talking about.:smt043
 
Thanks all for your responses.

This falls under shoulda, coulda, woulda...

Was so worried about all the other stuff that needed to be taken care of. Won't make that mistake again.

Aside from my boat, I also help my dad with his fishing boat (18' Tracker) that we winterize ourselves. It became a time crunch this year. Next year I will definitely plan ahead and winterize myself from now on.

Yes, they are an authorized Mercruiser dealer, and not the dealer we normally work with.

We are going Saturday to replace fuel filter(s), lower outdrive, and spray a non-corrosive protectant on the outdrive/engine per Merc. manual. Is WD-40 acceptable?

Gregg
 
Why not just change it now? You may not be able to warm it up, but you might still be able to suck it out through the dipstick. You want to make every attempt to lay the engine up with fresh oil since used oil suspends corrosive acids that are part of the fuel combustion process.
 
I've thought about that, and may have missed my opportunity. Over the weekend we had near record heat (85-90), while this weekend will be 60 degrees. that oil will be moving quite slow. I may see if we have a few unseasonably warm days prior to the boat going indoors in November...

Ya'll makin' me feel bad. I didn't need the help!
 
This thread sort of reminds of the sign in my dentist's office. "Question: Do I have to floss all of my teeth? Answer: No. Only do the ones you want to keep."
 
What do you suppose my chances are of a successful oil transfusion without being able to run the engine first? with less than 60 degree temps?
 
My personal opinion is to let it go until next spring. I've done that a few times in the past on previous boats when I didn't put a lot of hours on the oil during the season and never had any noticeable problems.
 
What do you suppose my chances are of a successful oil transfusion without being able to run the engine first? with less than 60 degree temps?

I hope you realize I was kidding. Change it in the spring and then each fall after that.
 
Sounds like he did everything right. Change oil in spring or fall, doesn't matter. It used to be important to do it in the fall when all we had was non-detergent oil, but not now.
Brad
Pflieger Marine Services.
 
Remember all or most all of the oil will be in the pan, not in the engine. You have nothing to worry about. I use only Wolfs Head oils, this is the ticket, good oil. Wolfs Head does the best job I've found in 27 years as a mechanic of aborbing the moisure created in a marine engine. You can change it in the winter. An electric pump would be helpfull. Suck it out of the dipstick tube.
Brad
Pflieger Marine Services
 
Thank you everyone!

Brad, All I have is a manual suction pump (hold the Austin Powers references - that not my bag, baby!). I do feel better about having to leave the oil. I will, however, be changing it once we splash the boat in the spring with a warm engine.

Since this is my first expereince with a Merc. I/O, will she be tough to start in the spring? Any pointers?

Thank you!
 
Properly tuned it should start right up in 10-15 seconds. Read your instruction manual.
 
sbw1,

Should I do that with the muffs/hose prior to splash?

The manual is boring. these threads are much more entertaining!
 
When you get her out start in driveway so as not to clog the ramp just in case of a problem. With batteries fully charged and water muffs conected and running. Pump throttle 3 times, crank engine. If nothing, pump 3 or 4 more times and crank engine. If starts and stalls this means not getting enough fuel. Crank engine and once it starts gently but quickly pump throttle to keep her running and she will burn off the fogging oil quickly.
Brad
 
Brad...elaborate on these "wolfs head oils" never heard of them....Where to find them and what viscosity?
 
Wolfs Head is a premium brand oil made by Pennzoil. In dyno tests we have, over a decade, found it to hold up better, absorb better and keep higher oil pressures at lowing operating speeds. There is any viscosily you would like. including the special duty 15w40 deisel oil.
Brad
 

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