Departure Check List

Our dealer told us we didn't need to flush the engine on our 185 Sport and we never have - ...... Should I go give our dealer and the mechanics a piece of my mind?

Sounds like they are looking for future work to me.:smt021 I think I would find a new mechanic myself.:wow:
 
Our dealer told us we didn't need to flush the engine on our 185 Sport and we never have - we wash it down after each run - we are in salt water so we do it very carefully. Our manual told us HOW to flush but we were told several times there was no need. Should I go give our dealer and the mechanics a piece of my mind?

:wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow:
 
Get a float for your boat keys and another for your car/truck keys, if you keep them separate.

My wife taught me a little trick for packing a change of clothes for an overnight. Put them in a large (one or two gallon size) zip-lock freezer bag, and squeeze the air out before sealing the closure (sitting on it works well). The bag with clothes in it will stay dry, and takes up much less room.
 
Dotty - You have to flush your motor with fresh water after every dip in salt water. :wow: You will likely have some rust/corrosion issues in your future. :smt009
 
Our dealer told us we didn't need to flush the engine on our 185 Sport and we never have - we wash it down after each run - we are in salt water so we do it very carefully. Our manual told us HOW to flush but we were told several times there was no need. Should I go give our dealer and the mechanics a piece of my mind?

You should ask your dealer for a new boat since they told you the quickest way to destroy it.
 
before departing, check and make sure that you have disengaged four wheel drive (in case you had engaged it to get up a slippery ramp)...don't drive home two hours with it engaged like I did last weekend. Ouch!
 
Checklist
Embarking

At the prep area
remove and stow covers
insert plug!
Remove tow straps
Remove trailering clips – ( raise the engine by clicking on trim button one time)
Turn engine so that it is straight (should already be this way except for storage purposes?)
Ladder up?
Disconnect trailer lights and put 7-5 connector in the truck
Turn on the blower!

On the loading ramp
In the vehicle
Back boat into water until 7/8 of the wheel wells are submerged
Put on parking brake
disconnect winch hook and safety chain from U-hook
shove boat off
drive vehicle to parking – lock vehicle – (keys in pocket or on finger so that you don’t drop them in the water.)

On the boat
start engine as soon as outdrive is submerged
Let it warm up for about 30 seconds.
put boat in reverse and carefully back away from the dock

Disembarking

On the loading ramp
drive trailer straight back until 7/8 of the wheel wells are submerged.
drive boat up to the trailer – hook winch hook and safety chain hook
shut off engine!
Trim all the way up! (Lift engine out of water)
pull boat slowly from water

At the prep area
gently remove drain plug
towel off boat
strap down the stern of the boat with trailer straps
engine clips on hydraulics
reconnect trailer lights
close windshield for highway travel
put on canvas?
Turn off 4 wheel drive?
 
Maybe Add:

Prop wench and spare prop....Nothing worse then a five min fix to sending you home early
 
Tools and a Shop manual plus common spares on board, extra wire, spark plugs, fuel filter, belts, drive oil, motor oil, duct tape, electircal tape, wood plugs to fit all thru hull fittings, and if your boat is older, spare water pump, timming chain, fuel pump. these are only if you are traveling in remote areas, but carry them and they will never fail don't and they will. and don't forget tools to install any parts you carry!
 
One quick question...what is the difference between a
Super Moderator and just a moderator.

Also how you become one.

Mike :huh:
 
As far as flushing your motor after every use in salt water...what do people who keep their boats in the water in a slip for the whole season do?
 
Dotty-We operate out 240SD in salt water most of the time. We flush after every use. We use a product called Salt a Way. It really works great. We flush the engine first, the use the remains in the canister to wash down the boat, prior to a good washing. I have operated boats in salt water for over 40 yrs we have always flushed the motors after each outing. In fact for me this is the most important part of my post trip maintenence/clean up!
 
Most don't do anything, some install a flush system on the raw water lines and use a hose at the dock to flush with fresh water. These systems allow you to flush the internals. A friend has it on his 280 Sundancer that stays at his dock on the ICW most of the year.
 
I'd echo this advice. There is some debate about corrosion. Some say it doesn't matter if you flush in salt water since the cast iron manifolds will rust with fresh or salt water. To me, the minor cost (~$350.00) to have the flush system installed by the dealer was a no-brainer. Seems logical that a fresh water rinse after a salt water ride is a good thing. Even if it doesn't make a big difference, it establishes you as someone who takes excellent care of your boat and should help at re-sale time . Only warning is that using the flush system is a bit counter-intuitive. If you turn on the fresh water supply and wait too long to start the engine, you can fill the engine with water. NOT a good idea! Make certain you have an on/off valve at the end of the quick disconnect hose at the engine fitting so you can start the engine and within a couple of seconds turn on the water.
To me, the only area of debate is whether the product, Salt A Way adds value. I sometimes use it, at other times not. Appreciate thoughts from others on this.
 
I found the checklist that was a part of the owners manual of our 88 Sorrento. See attached
 

Attachments

  • Checklist from SeaRay 1988.pdf
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Boat - Things to check.

1. Make sure the bilge plug is in. Tighten with wrench.
2. Make sure Keys are in boat.
3. Make sure battery is fully charged and working.
4. Check radio. (Don't be one of those goobers that does a "Radio check Channel 16")...
5. Make sure insurance card both regular insurance and towing insurance like Sea Tow or BoatUS. registration card on board and in dry place.
6. Drive is up prior to travel.
7. Bimini is laid down or secured.
8. Check the Life Preservers - Are they in good shape and are there enough on the boat for the people on board. Make sure whistles are on each one.
9. Check your flares. Make sure they are in date.
10. Check your first aide kit. If you don't have one, get one..

Trailer - Things to check.

1. Check Tire pressure on trailer.
2. Check Lights on trailer.
3. Check Brake Fluid on trailer.
4. Check for License plate on trailer. (Yea, sometimes they go missing and duh....we never even thought to look.) :smt017
5. Check your safety chains. Make sure properly attached and crossed. If you have a lock for the tounge make sure it's secure.

Trailer / Truck - Things to have with you.

1. Can of "Fix a Flat"
2. Small tool box
3. Spare tire for trailer
4. Extra bulbs for lights
5. Trailer jack.
6. Road side flares or reflective triangles.

Truck things to check.

1. Tire pressure - Make sure it's what it calls for.
2. Tow ball. Make sure it is properly tightened. Remove and check it several times a year. Don't assume that because you put it on in the spring it has not come loose.
3. Electrical wire harness.
4. Got your trailer registration in the truck?

Return trip: Putting everything away for next time.

Boat:
1. Remove bilge plug.
2. Lower drive so bellows are vertical.
3. Flush motor. (Run motor with water until reaches operating temps)
4. Wash boat down. Dry off.
5. Open all hatches to allow to dry.



Trailer:
1. Unhook and secure chains.
2. Place light plug adaptor in safe place.
3. Chock wheels.
4.



Truck:

1. Wash truck.


What else do we need to check?
Check your wallet
 
1. "Bilge plug!" Your boat will sink and a photo of both the boat and your dismayed expression will have brief social media popularity if you fail to put the plug in. I drilled a hole across the top of mine so it is ordinarily kept on the trailer hitch locking pin. I look at it semi-dumbfounded whenever I prepare for trailering and suddenly remember where it goes.
2. "Gas!" Buy gas at station. My favorite serves ethanol-free.
3. "Tie-down straps!" Unhook the straps which tie the boat down to the trailer.
4. "Battery switch!" Turn it "On" or "Both" or "Starting battery." However, if you turn it to "Both" when your trolling or loud music battery is depleted, the starting battery can lose energy trying to charge the paired but lower voltage fun battery.
5. Engage four or all wheel drive as you will need it if the ramp is steep and/or slippery. Your vehicle has become a rarity if it can't be driven on paved roads with traction assist engaged. You don't want to lose your poise while launching as the big challenge of retrieving comes later.
6. Check the oil (optional.) Your inboard has a dipstick, your 2-stroke outboard has a tank with a confusing alarm when low, and your 4-stroke outboard requires reference to the operator's manual.
 
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There is one thing to add if you are trailering your boat and have the means ... I would start the boat on muffs before leaving the house.

I've seen a number of boats on the ramp that would not start.
 
You noted that you lower the drive, presumably after you get home. But, your departure checklist doesn't include raising the drive for transport. Otherwise, looks like a good list to me!

My checklist also includes: plenty of ice(plus extra ice), gas for the grill, leave the expensive sunglasses in the car (cheapies already on board), and put the car key in its designated spot so I know where it is when we return.
 
Boat - Things to check.
1. Make sure the bilge plug is in. Tighten with wrench.

I never tighten my drain plug with a wrench. It's brass and screws in with about 3 full rotations, but as soon as I feel resistance, I stop. Sometimes I even back it out about 5 degrees if I feel I've tightened it too much.

I've never had so much as a drop of water enter my bilge, and have never found the plug to be in any other position than what I put it in to be (in other words, it never loosens on its own). This method allows me to unscrew it by hand when I trailer the boat (and I trailer my boat everywhere).

I'm surprised people actually tighten these things with wrenches (but then again, I also don't tighten my oil drain pan plug in my cars beyond 10nm or so... Same for my oil & fuel/water filters... I screw them in until I meet a little resistance, but never tight. I've never once had leaks or drips - and they are always easy to remove!
 

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