Departure Check List

Discussion in 'Sport Boats' started by STIHLBOLTS, Mar 9, 2007.

  1. chuck1

    chuck1 Super Moderator TECHNICAL Contributor PLATINUM Sponsor

    Oct 3, 2006
    North GA Mountains
    Looking For Next One
    Looking For Next One
    Sounds like they are looking for future work to me.:smt021 I think I would find a new mechanic myself.:wow:
     
  2. First Born

    First Born Super Moderator PLATINUM Sponsor

    Oct 3, 2006
    Charlotte, N.C.
    2006 185 Sport
    4.3 L 190 HP
    :wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow:
     
  3. tmhudson2

    tmhudson2 New Member

    885
    Aug 30, 2007
    Nashville, TN
    Boatless
    Boatless
    Get a float for your boat keys and another for your car/truck keys, if you keep them separate.

    My wife taught me a little trick for packing a change of clothes for an overnight. Put them in a large (one or two gallon size) zip-lock freezer bag, and squeeze the air out before sealing the closure (sitting on it works well). The bag with clothes in it will stay dry, and takes up much less room.
     
  4. jwfoster4

    jwfoster4 New Member

    94
    May 28, 2007
    Niceville, FL
    270 DA
    454 Mercruiser w/Bravo III Drive
    Dotty - You have to flush your motor with fresh water after every dip in salt water. :wow: You will likely have some rust/corrosion issues in your future. :smt009
     
  5. Morpheus

    Morpheus New Member

    May 7, 2007
    Odessa, FL
    2006 SeaRay Sundeck 240
    5.0MPI Mercruiser w/ Bravo III
    You should ask your dealer for a new boat since they told you the quickest way to destroy it.
     
  6. nak

    nak New Member

    5
    May 26, 2009
    Colorado
    before departing, check and make sure that you have disengaged four wheel drive (in case you had engaged it to get up a slippery ramp)...don't drive home two hours with it engaged like I did last weekend. Ouch!
     
  7. nak

    nak New Member

    5
    May 26, 2009
    Colorado
    Checklist
    Embarking

    At the prep area
    remove and stow covers
    insert plug!
    Remove tow straps
    Remove trailering clips – ( raise the engine by clicking on trim button one time)
    Turn engine so that it is straight (should already be this way except for storage purposes?)
    Ladder up?
    Disconnect trailer lights and put 7-5 connector in the truck
    Turn on the blower!

    On the loading ramp
    In the vehicle
    Back boat into water until 7/8 of the wheel wells are submerged
    Put on parking brake
    disconnect winch hook and safety chain from U-hook
    shove boat off
    drive vehicle to parking – lock vehicle – (keys in pocket or on finger so that you don’t drop them in the water.)

    On the boat
    start engine as soon as outdrive is submerged
    Let it warm up for about 30 seconds.
    put boat in reverse and carefully back away from the dock

    Disembarking

    On the loading ramp
    drive trailer straight back until 7/8 of the wheel wells are submerged.
    drive boat up to the trailer – hook winch hook and safety chain hook
    shut off engine!
    Trim all the way up! (Lift engine out of water)
    pull boat slowly from water

    At the prep area
    gently remove drain plug
    towel off boat
    strap down the stern of the boat with trailer straps
    engine clips on hydraulics
    reconnect trailer lights
    close windshield for highway travel
    put on canvas?
    Turn off 4 wheel drive?
     
  8. kevmankc1

    kevmankc1 New Member

    5
    Aug 16, 2009
    Phoenix
    210 Signature Series
    5.7 L Mercruiser w/ Alpha outdrive
    Maybe Add:

    Prop wench and spare prop....Nothing worse then a five min fix to sending you home early
     
  9. Boatsteve

    Boatsteve New Member

    5
    Dec 12, 2010
    Ill River
    1974 Boatel 47 Islander
    1997 Searay 27 Dancer
    1985 Hurricane 18
    454,s and one 140HP
    Tools and a Shop manual plus common spares on board, extra wire, spark plugs, fuel filter, belts, drive oil, motor oil, duct tape, electircal tape, wood plugs to fit all thru hull fittings, and if your boat is older, spare water pump, timming chain, fuel pump. these are only if you are traveling in remote areas, but carry them and they will never fail don't and they will. and don't forget tools to install any parts you carry!
     
  10. My58SR

    My58SR Banned

    124
    Dec 20, 2010
    South FL
    58 Sundancer 2 Raymarine 140W
    man900s
    One quick question...what is the difference between a
    Super Moderator and just a moderator.

    Also how you become one.

    Mike :huh:
     
  11. Kingsfr

    Kingsfr Member

    89
    Jun 23, 2011
    Great South Bay, Long Island, NY
    2005 Sea Ray 270 SUNDECK
    2012 Mercruiser 383 Stroker W/ Bravo III
    As far as flushing your motor after every use in salt water...what do people who keep their boats in the water in a slip for the whole season do?
     
  12. skb0203

    skb0203 New Member

    11
    May 10, 2011
    Richmond Hill, Ga
    2006 240 sundeck. 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 or 2003 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A, Lowrance HDS7 gps/plotter,
    Mercruser 5.0 MPI BravoIII
    Dotty-We operate out 240SD in salt water most of the time. We flush after every use. We use a product called Salt a Way. It really works great. We flush the engine first, the use the remains in the canister to wash down the boat, prior to a good washing. I have operated boats in salt water for over 40 yrs we have always flushed the motors after each outing. In fact for me this is the most important part of my post trip maintenence/clean up!
     
  13. skb0203

    skb0203 New Member

    11
    May 10, 2011
    Richmond Hill, Ga
    2006 240 sundeck. 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 or 2003 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A, Lowrance HDS7 gps/plotter,
    Mercruser 5.0 MPI BravoIII
    Most don't do anything, some install a flush system on the raw water lines and use a hose at the dock to flush with fresh water. These systems allow you to flush the internals. A friend has it on his 280 Sundancer that stays at his dock on the ICW most of the year.
     
  14. Lidokey

    Lidokey New Member

    82
    Apr 14, 2013
    Florida
    260 Sundeck, 2012
    5.0L Bravo III
    I'd echo this advice. There is some debate about corrosion. Some say it doesn't matter if you flush in salt water since the cast iron manifolds will rust with fresh or salt water. To me, the minor cost (~$350.00) to have the flush system installed by the dealer was a no-brainer. Seems logical that a fresh water rinse after a salt water ride is a good thing. Even if it doesn't make a big difference, it establishes you as someone who takes excellent care of your boat and should help at re-sale time . Only warning is that using the flush system is a bit counter-intuitive. If you turn on the fresh water supply and wait too long to start the engine, you can fill the engine with water. NOT a good idea! Make certain you have an on/off valve at the end of the quick disconnect hose at the engine fitting so you can start the engine and within a couple of seconds turn on the water.
    To me, the only area of debate is whether the product, Salt A Way adds value. I sometimes use it, at other times not. Appreciate thoughts from others on this.
     

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