Dash switch issue - help!

edsmax

Member
Feb 11, 2009
182
Greenwich Bay, RI
Boat Info
2002 Sundancer 240
Engines
357 Mercruiser MAG 4V 325HP, Bravo III
On my 240DA, I am having issues with the green led lights on the switch panel that controls the bilge fan, bilge pump, lights, etc etc. All the switches work, but none of the green leds are lighting up anymore. If I apply some pressure to the panel (for example, pushing hard on the horn button), I can sometimes get the green lights to come on but not for long. Ideas?

Ed
 
Sounds like a loose connection at a common point. Can you get at the backside of the dash ?
My guess is a ground has come loose.
 
Disconnect the quick connect on the back side, spray with some electronics cleaner and reconnect. See if that helps. Same idea as Steve - there's just no real "ground" on the switch panel.

Poor man's way... Connect and disconnect a few times.
 
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I reached behind the dash and jiggled the group of wires that lead into the switch cluster and that did nothing. I may try that again next time I am at the boat. Like I said, all the switches work but it is a huge inconvenience not having the lights on.
 
Thanks - will buy some eltrical connection cleaner tomorrow and try your idea. Will keep you posted. Just find it strange that when I lay on the horn, the green lights come on.
 
Dennis,
The lamp at the switch running parallel with the load?
I'm thinking of the back lights for the instruments.
 
I think he's referring to the electronic switch pad... The "peanut".

If you have to go down this route... I think there is a sponsor on CSR that deals with these switch pads. If not, I think I have one of the threads saved that the company was mentioned in. It's not cheap, though. If/when my switchpad ever fails, I'll likely convert to normal toggle switches.
 
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I think he's referring to the electronic switch pad... The "peanut".

If you have to down this route... I think there is a sponsor on CSR that deals with these switch pads. If not, I think I have one of the threads saved that the company was mentioned in. It's not cheap, though. If/when my switchpad ever fails, I'll likely convert to normal toggle switches.

YES, I am referring to the "peanut". I would attach a pic but for some reason I cannot (not even a tiny picture).

I will do a search but if you have the name of the company that fixes these electronic keypads (as sea ray calls them), let me know.

Thanks,

Ed
 
That's a good thought, Jack. But, there's no dimmer on his boat.

Are you in Haven Harbour?

My guess would be a loose board connection.
 
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Correct - no dimmer on my boat. I went last night, the panel even lights up when the dash lights are on and all switches work - just no little green LEDS. I will just deal with it.

The big question is - if I do decide to convert to traditional toggle switches, would I need a new Electrical Interface Module (box that has the fuses for the switches)?? Or can my existing EIM be used? I wonder if anyone has done this conversion... I would only attempt if the actual keypad stopped working completely.
 
You would scrap both the EIM and the Peanut. Once you get those out, the remaining wires are "normal". Meaning, the wires that are going into the EIM would simply go to toggle switches. In other words, the EIM/Peanut take the place of regular switches. The wiring diagram in your manual has everything pretty well spelled out and color coded so you can see what wires are what.
 
You would scrap both the EIM and the Peanut. Once you get those out, the remaining wires are "normal". Meaning, the wires that are going into the EIM would simply go to toggle switches. In other words, the EIM/Peanut take the place of regular switches. The wiring diagram in your manual has everything pretty well spelled out and color coded so you can see what wires are what.


Thanks for the clarification, Dennis.
 

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