D.C. distribution panel location??????

[arcticviking]

I have been an owner of a 1996 300DA Sundancer since last Oct. and as funny as this my sound, but I cannot seem to locate the D.C. distribution panel. I have 2 boating friends that own 290 Sundancer's and theirs are located on the port side cockpit inside wall just before the cabin door. I have a small storage compartment there but no D.C. panel. I called the old Sea Ray dealer in town that she was purchased from and they told me it should be in the bilge compartment in between the fire ext. & the AC converter, but it is not. I have looked everywhere in the bilge and unless it's well hidden, I just don‘t think it‘s in there. I have looked everywhere in her, I’ve checked the battery switch compartment, the cockpit, under the dash, the forward cabin, mid cabin, the galley, and the water heater/holding tank compartment, I just can't seem to locate it. Can anyone out there tell me for sure where this panel maybe located, if I have one and I believe I should have one, correct? Another thing is I do not have an electrical schematic for her, I have asked here and have checked on line and can’t seem to find one for her. The dealer told me to contact 1-800-SR BOATS, so I did and had to leave an e-mail @www.searay.com

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
~

 

[JimG]

Looks like it comes from your dash... with all of the DC breakers.

http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company1729/1C1_24_74DEIPNYQ84.pdf

 

[arcticviking]

Thanks JimG,
I think I see what you're saying, #7 #706374 Box DC Main BKR PNL ASSY 3AMP (that's pretty low amps??) 1993 (not sure what they mean by 1993??). I've sure looked in there, all I have is 2 battery switches and the emg. starter sol., If the DC main panel is in there it sure isn’t jumping out at me, saying look at me, here am I. It wouldn't be covered by another access panel door or something, would it? It should be easy access, right?

 

[rcknecht]

I had a 96 300, and I as I recall, there is a panel under your steering wheel. I remember when I installed my radar and gps I took the power off that panel. The bus bars are behind the panels once it is removed...

 

[JimG]

Thanks JimG,
I think I see what you're saying, #7 #706374 Box DC Main BKR PNL ASSY 3AMP (that's pretty low amps??) 1993 (not sure what they mean by 1993??). I've sure looked in there, all I have is 2 battery switches and the emg. starter sol., If the DC main panel is in there it sure isn’t jumping out at me, saying look at me, here am I. It wouldn't be covered by another access panel door or something, would it? It should be easy access, right?

I am referring to page 11... As Rod pointed out, all of the DC is distributed from behind the dash panel.

 

[arcticviking]

First, let me thank you guys again for replying, I really appreciate it!
Rod,
So you're saying, I have to remove a panel underneath my dash to get to those RED push in re-settable D.C. breakers? WOW! Talk about inconvenience if you need to reset a breaker in an emergency. If that is the case, I wonder, what was Sea Ray thinking then? My friend’s 1994 290 has them in a port side compartment that has very easy access.

By the way, we really like your boats name!

 

[CliffA]

First, let me thank you guys again for replying, I really appreciate it!
Rod,
So you're saying, I have to remove a panel underneath my dash to get to those RED push in re-settable D.C. breakers? WOW! Talk about inconvenience if you need to reset a breaker in an emergency. If that is the case, I wonder, what was Sea Ray thinking then? My friend’s 1994 290 has them in a port side compartment that has very easy access.

By the way, we really like your boats name!

i don't know exactly how this panel is fastened to the helm but it may be possible to put a SS piano hinge on one side and some sort of latch on the opposite side...this would allow for fast access to the breakers if/when needed....

cliff

 

[JimG]

First, let me thank you guys again for replying, I really appreciate it!
Rod,
So you're saying, I have to remove a panel underneath my dash to get to those RED push in re-settable D.C. breakers? WOW! Talk about inconvenience if you need to reset a breaker in an emergency. If that is the case, I wonder, what was Sea Ray thinking then? My friend’s 1994 290 has them in a port side compartment that has very easy access.

Aren't the push-to-reset breakers right there on the dash panel? Looks like they are from looking at page 11 :huh:

They're just not RED!

 

[arcticviking]

JimG,

Yes, I do have smaller D.C amp breakers on my dash, but I'm looking for the larger AMP D.C. breakers that are red & re-settable for my windlass, I think it should be like a 60 AMP service.

 

[Jodie53]

Hey that's my panel! Having similar issue with my 1995 300DA. Can't find the freaking breaker panel (with the red buttons). Looked everywhere. Trying to get some bilge cleaning done while the engines are out, and I have no power to Nav, bilge lights, blowers or pumps. And the cabin lights only work with shore power on and converter switch on. MUST be the breaker panel right? Thoughts? Batteries are 100%

 

[arcticviking]

Jodie53,
By chance, do you have an electrical schematic for your 1995 300DC? If so can you send me a copy via e-mail?

 

[arcticviking]

I finally found the DC breakers in panel behind a carpeted over access cover. It turns out the previous owner had re-carpeted the aft deck and side storage cubbyholes and covered over it. The only way I found it was, when I spoke to a tech at Sea Ray and he said it should be on the starboard side, next to the battery switches, so I checked the battery switch compartment one more time and that's when I noticed the red cables going away from the battery switches behind the starboard cubby hole and that's when it dawn on me and I remembered that the previous owner mentioning that he had had the aft deck re-carpeted and I pulled away the new carpet and there I found the access cover hiding behind it, containing the DC breakers. pictures to follow.

 

[Man On A Mission]

Jodie53,
By chance, do you have an electrical schematic for your 1995 300DC? If so can you send me a copy via e-mail?

Guys, I am trying to find a schematic for all the wiring on my (recently purchased) 1988 SR 250SD...
And based on some of these forums, it appears it is not easy to find these illusive buggers.
There was a link in this forum, but it is out of date and generates a 404 error when trying to access it.
Anyways, I have a few switches that are not activating what they should activate, (e.g. bilge blower, etc)
I can tone the lines from the switch to the device, but cannot find the source for the power line.
In the '87/'88s, there is a switch with a push button breaker beside or just above the switch. Those all
test out fine. :-/ But I cannot find the source (e.g. power from the battery out to those switches in the dash)
ANY pics, active manual references, etc would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Thanks

 

[Lazy Daze]

Man, I don't think you're going to find an "actual" wiring schematic. The only information is going to be in owner's manuals and back then, schematics wren't included. HOWEVER, Sea Ray did include a breakdown of wire colors/size and the circuit they were assoctiated with. If you don't have your owner's manual, you can go to SR's site and download it. If your specific year isn't there - look to other years. If your model isn't there, look to other models as the wire coloring is standard.

Typically there is a larger gauge (10g-ish) wire that feeds the dash console. It may originate at a breaker box in the bilge. If you follow the breaker/switch wiring at the dash, it has to originate (get it's power) somewhere. Possibly you just didn't look close enough.

Something to keep in mind... "toning" the line (ohm/resistance) is not always indicative of an operating circuit. It simply means there is at least one, tiny little strand of copper making a circuit. It may not be enough to carry the proper load, though.

In an older boat, it's not uncommon to have to re-wire things due to corroded connections and even wires that have corroded inside the sheathing to where they are now useless.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Oh... a definite plus to older boats is that their electrical system is dirt simple. No fancy electronic setups.

You didn't mention if you actually have power at the breaker? Do you at least have tone from the supply side of the breaker to the load side of the switch?

 

[Man On A Mission]

Man, I don't think you're going to find an "actual" wiring schematic. The only information is going to be in owner's manuals and back then, schematics wren't included. HOWEVER, Sea Ray did include a breakdown of wire colors/size and the circuit they were assoctiated with. If you don't have your owner's manual, you can go to SR's site and download it. If your specific year isn't there - look to other years. If your model isn't there, look to other models as the wire coloring is standard.

Typically there is a larger gauge (10g-ish) wire that feeds the dash console. It may originate at a breaker box in the bilge. If you follow the breaker/switch wiring at the dash, it has to originate (get it's power) somewhere. Possibly you just didn't look close enough.

Something to keep in mind... "toning" the line (ohm/resistance) is not always indicative of an operating circuit. It simply means there is at least one, tiny little strand of copper making a circuit. It may not be enough to carry the proper load, though.

In an older boat, it's not uncommon to have to re-wire things due to corroded connections and even wires that have corroded inside the sheathing to where they are now useless.

Thanks for the response. And to clarify, I try not to use a "toner" so to speak. I am actually using my volt meter
and checked for continuity. SR actually sent me the manuals they had on the boat. And you are correct. I cannot find
a schematic type reference in what they provided.. ( I am sure you already know this, so it is more me talking through it.) The blower switch for example, has a black and and a yellow wire going from the switch to the blower motor. And those both test out (if you will). THEN there is the (what appears to be orange (power) wire, that goes from the
switch, to the reset button, then off to lala land. there is a small distro panel directly under the steering wheel, and it looks like the once orange wire now goes (spliced) into a red wire. But I cannot for the life of me find either an orange OR a red wire back around the power source(s).. :-/

 

[Man On A Mission]

Oh... a definite plus to older boats is that their electrical system is dirt simple. No fancy electronic setups.

You didn't mention if you actually have power at the breaker? Do you at least have tone from the supply side of the breaker to the load side of the switch?

Well, (see my reply to your original response). It appears there is no power even to the "reset" button in the dash. Which is what is leading me to some sort of "breaker" or fuse tucked away in some god-aweful hole somewhere. LOL

 

[Lazy Daze]

Just for reference, "tone" is the same thing as a DVM set to continuity (ohms/resistance) - so the single strand theory still holds true

Take a good look in the bilge - see if you can find a 12V breaker box. I can't say for sure that your model uses this, but many models around your era did. If you have that, that's your source.

Have to ask this... battery switches turned on?

In the end, don't get too wrapped up in manuals or what not. At 34 years old and who knows how many previous owners, there could have been many "modifications" done over the years... and some of them may not have been done by the brightest kid on the block.

Start at your batteries and work forward.

 

[Man On A Mission]

Just for reference, "tone" is the same thing as a DVM set to continuity (ohms/resistance) - so the single strand theory still holds true

Take a good look in the bilge - see if you can find a 12V breaker box. I can't say for sure that your model uses this, but many models around your era did. If you have that, that's your source.

Have to ask this... battery switches turned on?

In the end, don't get too wrapped up in manuals or what not. At 34 years old and who knows how many previous owners, there could have been many "modifications" done over the years... and some of them may not have been done by the brightest kid on the block.

Start at your batteries and work forward.

I have actually disconnected the batteries so I can move around the wiring
pretty freely. And am "almost" to the point of doing my own "re-wire" of
some of these things for the very reason you mentioned. ;-) Perfect example
is, I found whomever decided the positive, AND the negative cables
(black and white) that fed the radio should go to the positive side of the battery. :-(

Oh, and ya, cannot find a "breaker box" anywhere in the bilge.

Thanks for the input. I do appreciate it.
And yes, the battery switch is on. ;-)
Cheers!!