Creating new screw holes

jtm84259

New Member
May 11, 2020
20
Boat Info
2017 350 SLX OB
Engines
3x Verado 300
Need some advice.
2017 350 SLX
Regarding: The Kenyon
grill cavity ‘cut-out’
Had to pull the grill to work on some electric beneath. 4 screws, one in each corner and 1 screw hole appears fine to rescrew, so I need advice on the (3) others.
Hole 1 isn’t even a hole, they completely missed the fiberglass edge and it’s a mere semi circle from the attempted pilot hole. I have some ideas but curious others thoughts. See picture.
Hole 2 is hanging on by a thread before it’s basically similar to hole 1 (not a complete circle) Again needs a new edging. See picture.
Hole 3 just appears the screw is putting on stress and has cracked the gel coat, Still appears strong but I assume it would only get worse, if I do anything is there a ‘best’ approach. No picture.
Thanks CsR
 

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Wow, and that boat was what $300k new. Pretty shoddy work there.

Can you shift the grill a little where you would be drilling new holes into solid fiberglass? Another option is to attach / glue wood strips along the bottom of that lip, and use longer screws that would go into the wood. Or find some clips that are for screws, but might not be able to find any big enough for that lip.
 
Wow, and that boat was what $300k new. Pretty shoddy work there.

Can you shift the grill a little where you would be drilling new holes into solid fiberglass? Another option is to attach / glue wood strips along the bottom of that lip, and use longer screws that would go into the wood. Or find some clips that are for screws, but might not be able to find any big enough for that lip.

Seriously, Bill. I wish this was the only example of shoddy work I am finding. Trying to knock out what I am able to before I lean on my warranty/MarineMax, during my offseason. (likely the culprit of some of the shoddy work in the first place.

Unfortunately, The grill cannot be shifted enough within the cut out to allow adequate space for new holes.
Your idea pertaining to wood beneath, and the longer screws, was on my short list of ideas.

couple questions with that....
-Am I sanding under the lip, beneath to 1.make sure the wood is as flush as possible up against the fiberglass, and 2.freshen up the surface for whatever bonding material I chose.
-Wood the easiest/best bet? Rain water does find its way down there. I guess i could non-adhesive silicon the hole.
-Among the 1000 different bonding agents/choices, from a brand of glue, to 5200 to an epoxy, or putty, it just needs to not spin when receiving the longer screw. Any personal recommendations?

I suspect whatever the answer, majority of my time will be in 'preparing' the under surface.

thanks agiain.
 
If you have warranty I would push it back... If you need a quick fix because you want to wait then just put fender washers and a nut and bolt to hold you for a couple of months.... Don't 5200 anything
 
Maybe get a tube of epoxy putty and build up the edge of the fiberglass enough to get a screw on there. There is a “steel” version I’ve used a couple times that’s worked well. It might have been a JB Weld variant.
 
I would use the Marine Tex epoxy putty, Make a masking tape mold and build up a screw boss at each hole then once it cures drill new holes and screw down the grill. It will be permanent.
Carpe Diem
 
Just to update/conclude. Appreciate everyone’s help and input.
I mixed all the input into plan of action.
Epoxy putty, masking tape mold, under lip small piece of marine wood, and longer screw.
Came out much better than expected and my Kenyon sits in there like an an astronaut strapped in.
thanks to all!
 

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Just to update/conclude. Appreciate everyone’s help and input.
I mixed all the input into plan of action.
Epoxy putty, masking tape mold, under lip small piece of marine wood, and longer screw.
Came out much better than expected and my Kenyon sits in there like an an astronaut strapped in.
thanks to all!
That will last a very long time, good job
CD
 
Good job - doubt the dealer would have done anywhere near as good.
 

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