Cost to Replace Head Gasket?

CoralReefer

CoralReefer

New Member
Mar 26, 2008
685
Nashville, TN
Boat Info
1987 250 Sundancer
Engines
260 Mercruiser w/Alpha I
Has anyone here ever replaced head gasket? If so, what was the cost of doing so? I'm shopping local marine mechanics for the best price and reputation. I have no clue what to expect.:huh:

Thanks!
 
Boat is on trailer now wrapped and winterized. I talked to local mechanic and he wants me to bring it in the second week of January to run and diagnose. My biggest concern is that it's possible dropping a big chunk of $$$ diagnosing just to find out that I need a new engine. However, I also don't want to buy a new engine if this one can be repaired. I'm only planning on keeping this boat another season or two before I upgrade to newer vessel.

Thanks again for any help/suggestions.
 
Diagnosing a blown head gasket isn't brain surgery but it can take some time if there is no oil in the water or water in the oil. On a raw water cooled engine, you can't do a cooling system pressure check either.

If you are not happy with your local guy, I can give you the name of an honest competent mechanic 60 miles from Nashville. He's honest and cheap, but he stays covered up and he won't be quick.
 
Only problem is it depends on the symptoms. If it wasn't winterized properly, could be a crack in the block, or head. What are your symptoms? water/oil mix, or water in cylinders? Head gasket isn't at all that hard to replace, but you never know what you may find once you get in there.
 
Everyone differs in DIY ability; I had never torn into an engine before but when I had a riser fail and needed to replace the heads on the carbed 350 in my Chris-Craft I bought a manual and found it to be relatively simple. If you're mechanically "inclined" this isn't too difficult a project on this engine.

Of course, you need to be sure that's your problem first...
 
Thanks for the responses. I found water in the oil when I pulled out this Fall during oil change and winterization process. I always check the oil and I've never found any trace of "Milk" on the dipstick (however I always checked before running so maybe it wasn't mixed). Also, engine has always had a hard time starting mainly due to choke being bypassed (broken bolt on intake when choke filament goes into intake) I has just zip tied the choke open and been patient during starting process and made sure warmed before leaving the dock. The day that I pulled out the engine kept wanting to die. I didn't pull plugs to check for moisture. I must admit that I had a reputable mechanic winterize and change oil/shrink wrap and he's the one that delivered the bad news. I did see the oil for myself and it was very milky. He said that more than likely it was the head gasket but I know it could be worse. I wasn't going to mess with it until Jan or Feb due to it being wrapped. I am mechanically inclined but I don't have a place or the tools to work on it. I was going to take it to a local mechanic in a few months and just let him diagnose. I'm been looking at possibly repowering but I don't want to spend the money on the boat since I will probably only keep a couple more seasons before upgrading to a new vessel.

Thanks for any advice and/or suggestions.
 
If you feel comfortable doing a few diagnostics yourself......I would start with a compression test of the cylinders. That will generally answer the question of a blown head gasket or cracked head pretty quickly and give us an idea of the general condition of the engine.

The other area that can pass water into the oil is the exhaust manifolds/risers. Did your mechanic rule these out before he locked on to the head gasket?

The other issue is the block itself may be cracked.

If you feel comfortable changing plugs, then the compression test will be easy to accomplish. If you don't, have a friend come over and help.

-John
 
PlayDate said:
If you feel comfortable doing a few diagnostics yourself......I would start with a compression test of the cylinders. That will generally answer the question of a blown head gasket or cracked head pretty quickly and give us an idea of the general condition of the engine.

The other area that can pass water into the oil is the exhaust manifolds/risers. Did your mechanic rule these out before he locked on to the head gasket?

The other issue is the block itself may be cracked.

If you feel comfortable changing plugs, then the compression test will be easy to accomplish. If you don't, have a friend come over and help.

-John
Click to expand...

Here's a link on what a compression check is and how it's done: http://www.search-autoparts.com/searchautoparts/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=16170
 
Thanks for the link. It was very helpful. As far as possibly getting in thru the exhaust manifolds, that's a big possibility as well. It has the old log style manifolds which I've read are notorious for leaking back.

I'll do some more research and consider testing myself before running to the mechanic.
 
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