tdschafer
Well-Known Member
Cincy, Thanks for the input. I am far from an audiophile so I will take all the advice I can get. I am just looking to upgrade without breaking the bank or upsetting my better half! I will look into JL audio. Todd
Complete Cockpit Stereo Upgrade
- Thread starter HIFI
- Start date
Todd . . .here is my feedback :
Get a Line Driver for sure. Don't scrimp on battery power or the 12 volt supply lines. You can't have too many amplifiers. Purchase the best equipment you can.
As far as your question about subs and "tube". I don't know what a tube is unless you are referring to a port that is part of a speaker enclosure. If that is what you are referring to there is some "long haired" thinking that goes into a ported design. I was schooled in Arizona by Fosgate many years ago. There is so much thought that goes into porting an enclosure my head hurt. If that is what you are thinking I would copy a manufactures design so you get it right. JBL sub owners manual should be able to answer your mounting/enclosure question. If your skill and space provides a enclosed sub (Ported, Vented or Enclosed) is always the best providing you are not just screwing some wood together and calling it complete. Every Sub manufacturer provides detail enclosure specification for each woofer they produce. Follow directions for best results. And don't forget if your floor plan allows go with two subs in cockpit, one forward and one aft.
More random thoughts :
The best amp by one manufacturer may be worse than the entry level amp by another manufacturer. This also can work in reverse.
Speakers are personal so purchase what you like. I would not tell you brand "A" sounds the best. If you go with brand "A" try to use brand "A" forward, mid, and aft. Subs are excluded from this rule.
Good luck and Good listening.
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tdschafer
Well-Known Member
Hifi,
Thanks for your response! My head is starting to hurt too!:smt101 I will continue my research.....I found another thread on here with an outfit in Tx that sells alot of this equipt. I may give them a call and see what they can put together.... :thumbsup: Todd
Thanks for your response! My head is starting to hurt too!:smt101 I will continue my research.....I found another thread on here with an outfit in Tx that sells alot of this equipt. I may give them a call and see what they can put together.... :thumbsup: Todd
themorganjane
New Member
HIFI or anyone else got a suggestion on how to get sound out onto the front of the boat. Either something portable or something permanent that water won't bother. I have a 48 Sundancer. I have the factory Clarion/XM w/6 disc changer. I tied the unit to the Cabin Bose system and I have a seperate amp for the helm speakers. I can isolate sound to either area or play all at the same time and have different sound levels in both areas. I would also like to have speakers/sound out where the forward sun pads are and be able to vary that sound level also. Any suggestions?
- Oct 12, 2006
- 1,974
- Boat Info
- "On Vacation"
2006 40 Sundancer
Raymarine E125 & HD Radar + Garmin 5208
- Engines
- QSB5.9 380 Cummins
I also spend a great deal of time researching speakers and amps and went with JL AUDIO for both. I upgraded to a newer Clarion head unit mostly because I didn't want to replace the wiring to the remote controls and disc changer. Sounds better but I still need to upgrade the 12v wiring.
Russ Calasant
Active Member
Try this www.earmarkcaraudio.com he is a member and has some great solutions. (go to marine audio section)
Russ Calasant
Active Member
EarmarkMarine
New Member
MJ,
There are a number of large boat rail mount and bow deck mount options for speakers to flood the bow deck sun pads. Some are more permanent that mount directly to the deck cap and sound a little better because they're just a couple of inches removed from the reinforcing plane of the deck. Others are quickly removed with no tools or just an allen wrench. Most of these options are applied to JL Audio 'T' series 7.7-inch coaxials in white powdercoated aluminum pods. There are a number of other options, but none better in my opinion.
The hardwired remote control at the bow or a portable Radio Frequency remote control FOB is a global control that operates the whole exterior system. So we usually use these in conjunction with separate zone contols (ie cockpit, bow and transom for example) that are located in a convenient and protected location like at the helm. If you're dead set on having a zone-specified control remotely located in a particular area so its close at hand, then there are a number of options for this too.
David
Earmark Marine
There are a number of large boat rail mount and bow deck mount options for speakers to flood the bow deck sun pads. Some are more permanent that mount directly to the deck cap and sound a little better because they're just a couple of inches removed from the reinforcing plane of the deck. Others are quickly removed with no tools or just an allen wrench. Most of these options are applied to JL Audio 'T' series 7.7-inch coaxials in white powdercoated aluminum pods. There are a number of other options, but none better in my opinion.
The hardwired remote control at the bow or a portable Radio Frequency remote control FOB is a global control that operates the whole exterior system. So we usually use these in conjunction with separate zone contols (ie cockpit, bow and transom for example) that are located in a convenient and protected location like at the helm. If you're dead set on having a zone-specified control remotely located in a particular area so its close at hand, then there are a number of options for this too.
David
Earmark Marine
David, I have looked at every install you have done . . . twice. Your complete system installs are certainly the best I have seen. It is clear there is a lot of thought that goes into your productions. I see the craftsmanship and one of the many things that really stand out is wire management. I will go back to my install and tidy things up. Great jobs!
Here is a direct link for members enjoyment: http://www.earmarkcaraudio.com/install_marine.asp
EarmarkMarine
New Member
Hifi,
Thanks for the compliment. I noticed alot of fine points in your installation as well. For example, the elevated platforms for the electronics. When water rarely finds a way in, it often finds its way to some very remote areas. I also like how you finished the platforms the same as the interior gelcoat. There's alot of time and pride in those details.
David
Earmark Marine
Thanks for the compliment. I noticed alot of fine points in your installation as well. For example, the elevated platforms for the electronics. When water rarely finds a way in, it often finds its way to some very remote areas. I also like how you finished the platforms the same as the interior gelcoat. There's alot of time and pride in those details.
David
Earmark Marine
themorganjane
New Member
Thanks for the ideas guys. I like those bullets. I just don't like looking at them. The 48 has two doors at the front that allows access to some storage and the windlass chain. I am thinking about mounting the bullets on the bottom of those doors and opening the doors when I want sound out front. Earmark, I noticed the 26inch TV you installed in the cockpit. When you have a moment, check out the custom electric TV lift I fabricated for the cockpit. I posted it in this section a week ago or so. The problem I found was that viewing the TV from the cockpit seating when the sun is out isn't easy and I also prefer to sit in the helm seating(swiveled 90 deg.) and watch TV from up there, so I had to figure out how to have the TV raise 23 inches so that it rises above the L shaped Helm Starboard seat back and also swivel 200 degrees either way so it can be seen from either the cockpit or the helm. I also found that the closer the TV gets to the bottom of the hardtop, there is a lot less sun glare. The peices that it takes to make this TV lift is quite simple. I can send you pictures of the individual pieces if you are interested. The work you did on the 48 on your website is out of this world. Thanks again for the ideas guys.
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tobnpr
New Member
Curious about something...
If one wanted to do a "serious" sound system on a boat, wouldn't an audiophile quality 120v "home" system deliver superior performance (and unlimited power) for far less money than a comparable DC system?
I suppose there's quality, waterproof speakers available?
My generator's running mostly all the time anyway...
If one wanted to do a "serious" sound system on a boat, wouldn't an audiophile quality 120v "home" system deliver superior performance (and unlimited power) for far less money than a comparable DC system?
I suppose there's quality, waterproof speakers available?
My generator's running mostly all the time anyway...
Russ Calasant
Active Member
You do have a point, true audiophile quality and boat are almost an oxymoron - its like trying to heat or cool the outdoors, a loosing battle and a challenge at best. Add in a little alcohol, not underway of course, and you cant get enough bass or volume. That being said I spend the lion share of my audiophile budget at home but I do like it loud and clear when the party is on the water. 12v applications are very challenging but do have highly sophisticated equipment engineered to meet those challenges. AC/DC is one of the challenges another is space, certainly a premium on a boat. HiFi can become just as addictive and expensive as boating itself. Its all a lesson in self control, at least thats what the Admiral tells me :grin:
Tobnpr
I like where your head is at on this one.
Very suitable for a house boat. Space is the only thing that would keep someone looking for the best sound from going with home audio equipment. Many of the members here have systems that are in excess of 1000 total RMS watts. Even a couple hundred home audio watts plus a couple hundred watts of sub bass power is going to be a couple big components.
Speakers . . . no problem using what we are using today providing we are careful with impedance matching. Generator . . . no problem. Most of these 1000 watt plus 12 volt systems require us to run generator anyway.
This is a great idea!
I don't know if they would fit and I think something custom would be right at home. I have this vision of pop up headlights. Pop up speakers that were made for the 48. Even a motor actuated pop up. If I had a 48 and time that is what I would do.
Again . . . GREAT IDEA!
Edit . . . Dave, Earmark . . . do you have this?
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themorganjane
New Member
You have me thinking HIFI. great Ideal. I don't mind cutting into the one of the doors and mounting a motorized lift mechanism for the speaker platform. right up my alley. If it all looks dorky when I am done. I can just buy a new door or two.
I really don't mind the bullets mounted on the railing either. I just am real weird about drilling holes in the deck to get the wiring up to them. Thanks again.
I really don't mind the bullets mounted on the railing either. I just am real weird about drilling holes in the deck to get the wiring up to them. Thanks again.
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It was your idea and a good one. I just lost sleep last night putting this together in my head. I scratched the bullets.
I have this vision of these access plates raising just enough to expose a custom contained speaker. View a scoop from the side. . . that is what I see. Front view is "V" shaped. The bottom of the speaker enclosure is a near identical size to the hatch cover. The Cover and the bottom piece become the enclosures top and bottom. The side away from the hinge has a radius. When lifted the bottom of the speaker enclosure closes off access.
"Vwa la"
tdschafer
Well-Known Member
Hey Russ, Thanks for the link. These are the guys I was thinking of in my earlier post. I remember you having some dialogue with them on another thread! I will be checking them out! Todd
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Holy crap, did you see the disco ball on the 420???:smt101
themorganjane
New Member
Very clever HIFI. So it will look closed up whether the speaker is up or down. And since the two doors open opposed to each other, the lift mechanism could be a electric linear actuator that hooks below the two speaker platforms. When it lengthens it will cause both doors to open up until the speaker platforms fill the open gap. Great Idea! The whole thing is actually quite easy to do. Everything involved will be mounted to the bottom of the existing doors so I can measure the relationship between the two doors when installed on the boat and then build a jig at home and do all the work in my shop. Thanks for the input. Any suggestion on a speaker to use? Something low profile so the doors do not have to open say maybe more than 45 deg.
