Cockpit door rollers and track need replacing. Need help!

W

Whit-Ness

New Member
Oct 20, 2014
29
Maryland
Boat Info
2006, 32 Sundancer
Engines
350 Mercriser,Mag, Horizens. Inboards
I have a 2006, 32 Sundancer. Cockpit door rollers on top side are destroyed. Upper rail track is also cracked and broken. Marine Max wants 800-1000 to fix. Would like to do it myself, but it seems very difficult. Looks like the helm needs to come up to get to door. Very hesitant about taking on this job, Can't find any videos on how to do this. Is it worth paying for the repair? Has anyone taken on this project. Any insight would help.
 
I got the top track and rollers from boat outfitters.com I think it cost me 200.00 and 2 hrs of time
 
Thanks! Was it difficult removing the helm to get to door?
 
I think you just have to remove the gauge panel to get to the screws for the to track . Not the hole helm .They're might me a YouTube video
 
Whit-Ness said:
Thanks! Was it difficult removing the helm to get to door?
Click to expand...

Put the boat and the outfitters together.... No space. That are the go to folks for door "stuff". IMHO, If you are replacing the rollers, replace the tracks as well. The cost differential is not that great and if one is gone, the other can't be far behind.

Pix is would help. My 330 has hidden screws. Your boat may have some too.
 
Thx David, I inittially posted this thread here instead of repair section (I have a thread there). I've received some good responses from people. Going down this weekend. This is the reason I love this site. Everyone who owns a Sea Ray takes time to help someone else who has one.
 
Whit-Ness said:
I have a 2006, 32 Sundancer. Cockpit door rollers on top side are destroyed. Upper rail track is also cracked and broken. Marine Max wants 800-1000 to fix. Would like to do it myself, but it seems very difficult. Looks like the helm needs to come up to get to door. Very hesitant about taking on this job, Can't find any videos on how to do this. Is it worth paying for the repair? Has anyone taken on this project. Any insight would help.
Click to expand...

The door on our 360 has sever bow in it. This was causing the trucks to pull up on the upper track and destroying it for a second time. (The dealer replaced it the first time.) The original track material is very thin and would have been broken again if I used the same again.

So I went to the "Grainger.com" website and found their item #2NJC3 (U channel, UHMW, 7/8" leg, 1 1/2"width x 10 ft). This plastic material feels very slippery and allows the blocks I made (instead of using the truck wheels) from the same material, to slide easily in the U channel. I did this May 2012 and is still working great! Less than $50.00.

Again from Grainger, I found some S.S. angle that has taken most of the bend out of door. Since the door company is out of business, I figured this will be a good fix! Boatoutfitters would be able to make replacement door, but at a very large cost! I hope nobody has run into this bowing problem as it is a P.I.T.A.

Good luck with your repair.
Regards,
Dennis
 
I messed around with the door tracks/trucks yesterday. I tried the suggestion of adding a screw to raise the U-channel off the trucks. It seems it's going to actually work. The screws thread down into the plastic of the truck and you can use the screws to raise or lower the height of the door. I'm getting the best results out of raising the door off the trucks at the top of the door. I did take pictures and will post after I get them off my phone. Doing this will require you to adjust where the striker of the door latch is on the doorway entry. Depending on how much you have to adjust that striker could mean some gelcoat filler or caulk to fix the holes. I'm hoping that I don't have to move it that much and the striker will cover the holes.
 
DB360 said:
The door on our 360 has sever bow in it. This was causing the trucks to pull up on the upper track and destroying it for a second time. (The dealer replaced it the first time.) The original track material is very thin and would have been broken again if I used the same again.

So I went to the "Grainger.com" website and found their item #2NJC3 (U channel, UHMW, 7/8" leg, 1 1/2"width x 10 ft). This plastic material feels very slippery and allows the blocks I made (instead of using the truck wheels) from the same material, to slide easily in the U channel. I did this May 2012 and is still working great! Less than $50.00.

Again from Grainger, I found some S.S. angle that has taken most of the bend out of door. Since the door company is out of business, I figured this will be a good fix! Boatoutfitters would be able to make replacement door, but at a very large cost! I hope nobody has run into this bowing problem as it is a P.I.T.A.

Good luck with your repair.
Regards,
Dennis
Click to expand...


Sounds interesting. How did you make the blocks?
 
dpmulvey said:
Sounds interesting. How did you make the blocks?
Click to expand...

Hey David,

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but I was going deep in the man cave (THE BILGE) to fix a leak on the starboard rudder post. Need more flax packing and all will be good!

If you look at the profile of the plastic U-channel, I cut off the side legs of a 3" length so the middle piece is left to form the block. I used just a hacksaw and then my bench grinder to complete the fit. This material has great lubricity so the blocks side great within the U-channel. I tried to take a picture, but the angle is to steep and you can't see anything.

Hope this helps, but I'm around if you need.

Regards, Dennis
 
The U-channel material from Grainger.
 
Last edited:
Have a look here at the second link posted from mistercomputerman

You will want to match the holes exactly and also counter sink the track like the original. Having done this I would recommend the plastic track versus the aluminum as you will need to cut the track when received.
 
I'm going to try using the screws to elevate the rail off the roller as was mentioned by one of the members. I can't remember their name to give them credit for the idea. Here's a picture:


The screw in the middle gets tightened down to pull the two flat head screws up tight to the bottom of the rail

Here's another view:
 
Removed 4 screws holding trucks inside track (upper side of door). Closed door and started to remove upper rail. This is where it get weird. Removed 3 screws holding rail. Upper rail is in 2 sections (is that normal) I was able to remove upper rail very easily. Rail was 24 1/2 inches long. At first I thought rail was broken in half but it's a perfect cut. The other half of the rail is located under the helm area. Can it be this easy? I was going to order a new rail 24 1/2 inches long and new trucks. and replace. Wanted to add pictures , but site not letting me? Trucks were destroyed. Any thoughts
 
Whit-Ness said:
Removed 4 screws holding trucks inside track (upper side of door). Closed door and started to remove upper rail. This is where it get weird. Removed 3 screws holding rail. Upper rail is in 2 sections (is that normal) I was able to remove upper rail very easily. Rail was 24 1/2 inches long. At first I thought rail was broken in half but it's a perfect cut. The other half of the rail is located under the helm area. Can it be this easy? I was going to order a new rail 24 1/2 inches long and new trucks. and replace. Wanted to add pictures , but site not letting me? Trucks were destroyed. Any thoughts
Click to expand...

When I measured my track last week it measures 52 and 3/4 inches.
 
Kreole Kid said:
When I measured my track last week it measures 52 and 3/4 inches.
Click to expand...
Sorry to bring up an old thread but was your top track and bottom track the same length? Looking into doing this on my 06 320 currently.
 
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