Cleaning vinyl seats

I stopped by Walmart today and picked up a bottle or Starbrite mildew stain remover. Problem is you need to rinse with water and I can’t do that in my shop. And with high temps below -0f pulling the boat out of my shop is not an option. And I agree with West Marine I wish their pricing was more competitive.

I use water in a spray bottle to rinse off the Sttrbrite-a spray bottle and a wet rag.

Bennett
 
So I sell into the industrial markets and we have a 3M pad they use in the Aerospace production process that is a “no scratch pad”. I am going to get a sample and give that a try. Thankfully I have never put the scotch brite pads to mine.
 
Years ago, when this "Magic" Eraser appeared on the boat scene, I had my doubts (as many above have warned about). I took a brand new piece of vinyl (an extra/scrap piece from Sea Ray) and used light to light/moderate pressure on an area for about 15 seconds. Dried it off and then looked closely... I could clearly see a difference where the Eraser was used... it was an obvious dull spot. As noted, it is, essentially, sandpaper, and will first wear off the plasticizer layer (the protective layer) and then the vinyl becomes harder to keep clean and you'll want to keep using the Eraser becomes it removes the dirt... and more vinyl... and allows the vinyl to get dirtier, faster... and you'll use the Eraser more... you get the picture.

I've used a lot of cleaners over the years and some are certainly better than others. But for me, the main "trick" is to keep the area wet, along with a medium stiffness bristle brush and either use a hose to keep rinsing the dirt away or use clean rags to wipe it away. BUT, if you use a rag, you MUST keep switching to a clean spot - otherwise you simply spread the dirt around. Always 303 afterwards, too.

So you clean your seats with just plain water and a brush? And that takes the dirt out because you''re rinsing?
 
So I sell into the industrial markets and we have a 3M pad they use in the Aerospace production process that is a “no scratch pad”. I am going to get a sample and give that a try. Thankfully I have never put the scotch brite pads to mine.

Try the pads that are made for use on glass cooktops.
 
I stopped by Walmart today and picked up a bottle or Starbrite mildew stain remover. Problem is you need to rinse with water and I can’t do that in my shop. And with high temps below -0f pulling the boat out of my shop is not an option. And I agree with West Marine I wish their pricing was more competitive.

FYI, West Marine will price match if you show them the other vendors pricing.
 
FYI, West Marine will price match if you show them the other vendors pricing.

The WM near us accepts the price match very easily. Often, just telling them the price and flashing my phone. I have saved a ton doing this on virtually everything.

As for the Starbrite Mold and Mildew Stain Remover....mildew stain can be stubborn to remove. Time is your friend here. Allowing a rag soaked with Starbrite to lay on top of the stains for 10-30 minutes can make for a very positive outcome.
 
The rinse can be with a bottle of water, spray it in heavy and wipe with a towel, then repeat and wipe with a new towel. That is rinse enough.
 
So you clean your seats with just plain water and a brush? And that takes the dirt out because you''re rinsing?
No, the "constantly rinsing" part is to make sure you're not just spreading the dirt around and into a different vinyl crevice/grain.
 
So I tried several of the products that were recommended and found that my original product. Starbrite vinyl cleaner and polish along with a medium bristle brush did the best job of cleaning the dirt off off my seats.
 
Against the law but I do it. I use the Clorox cleaner spray type WITH bleach and mist it on. Use a soft bristle deck brush to work it in. It helps get into the grain. I thoroughly rinse and let them dry. Never have put any type of product on the vinyl to protect it either and the seats are 21 yrs old now. I only do this routine once maybe twice per season. No ill effects in my experience. Doesn't work well on scuffs or areas that the very top layer of vinyl is worn off. Some types of scuffs I've had luck with mild polishing compound. I believe in basics sometimes and not all the snake oils.
Give it up on those damn magic erasers too!
 
Against the law but I do it. I use the Clorox cleaner spray type WITH bleach and mist it on. Use a soft bristle deck brush to work it in. It helps get into the grain. I thoroughly rinse and let them dry. Never have put any type of product on the vinyl to protect it either and the seats are 21 yrs old now. I only do this routine once maybe twice per season. No ill effects in my experience. Doesn't work well on scuffs or areas that the very top layer of vinyl is worn off. Some types of scuffs I've had luck with mild polishing compound. I believe in basics sometimes and not all the snake oils.
Give it up on those damn magic erasers too!

Everyone's experiences are different and perhaps being in a northern zone helps out too. One of the biggest concerns its that the bleach will degrade the stitching as there is no protection for it. Once the stitching goes it does not matter on the quality of the vinyl or how well it held up. So if you are not soaking the seam and rinsing well afterwards and don't have the excessive sun bleach the southern zones have this may work for you - still not generally recommended.

Now, that being said when nothing else has worked and the spots seem to be continually coming back it maybe from mold growth on the backside. In this case the bleach will certainly kill it on the outside and help out but there is no easy way to treat from behind. But at this point there is not much else you could do anyway and eventually a recovering will be required. How long? Who knows because there are too many variables. Some will also choose to paint at some time but each step is only prolonging the inevitable.

-Kevin
 
Regarding bleach, I read where a few had recommended Starbrite Mildew Remover. I believe that is nothing but bleach and water?

It would not be my first go to but in a progress approach it has a place as you run out of options.

MSDS shows Sodium hypochlorite, so yes a bleach mixture.

-Kevin
 
i use straight bleach (Clorox) frequently when i have a stubborn stain on vinyl that other cleaners won't remove...the trick is to use a 'white' cloth (i use inexpensive white wash cloths from Walmart) and wet it with bleach but not to the point the bleach will run out of the cloth...then just lay the wet cloth on the stain (not touching the stitching) and wait....keep checking the stain and replenishing the bleach as needed until the stain is gone....has worked very well for me...some stains can take considerable time to remove....

then rinse well with fresh water and wipe down with 303 to protect the vinyl....

cliff
 
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i use straight bleach (Clorox) frequently when i have a stubborn stain on vinyl that other cleaners won't remove...the trick is to use a 'white' cloth (i use inexpensive white wash cloths from Walmart) and wet it with bleach but not to the point the bleach will run out of the cloth...then just lay the wet cloth on the stain (not touching the stitching) and wait....keep checking the stain and replenishing the bleach as needed until the stain is gone....has worked very well for me...some stains can take considerable time to remove....

then rinse well with fresh water and wipe down with 303 to protect the vinyl....

cliff

as a side note, West Marine will price match. I went there with a shopping list from defender's big sale. They matched all there prices. Even the special order. The difference was over $300.
 

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