Chunk missing / How do I fix it?

JohnEGraham

JohnEGraham

Active Member
Aug 5, 2008
1,013
Long Island, NY.
Boat Info
250 Sundancer 1998 5.7.
Engines
350 Merc / Bravo 3
Hi all, I am missing a chunk :huh: from my what-a-you- call-it? Finn?
How can this be repaired. Do I just go to welding shop? The boat is on a trailer. What would this kind of repair cost? Does the lower unit have to come off first? And what will this damage cause to the boat when underway if I hold off?
Thanks all. John G.
 
Last edited:
That whachamacallit is known as a cavitation plate and it should be repaired. It is Aluminum so it requires someone who can fabricate and weld a piece in place. I have seen several repairs done to cavitation plates and if a good person does the repiar you can't even tell afterwards. I recommend you talk to your dealer as they will be the ones who know who to contact for a repair of this type. Afterwards, the repair will need painting as well.

How did that happen? I ask only because if you picked up a log with one of your props then you may also have a bent prop as well. One other thing, it's time to replace your anodes on the outdrive That one on your trim cylinder has outlived its usefullness.
 
You also could have serious damage to your outdrive. If this is recent damage I reccomend you notify your insurance co., as this could mean a new3 outdrive costing a few thousand dollars.
 
3k93ma3l6ZZZZZZZZZ94h1e18771b2a1410d6.jpg


install hydrofoils and forget about damage :grin:
 
Since we are talking about a BIII, I would have the dealer check for corrosion. How did it happen?
 
Hi All, The front Prop has been replaced. How did it happen? Not shure but one time while I was waiting at a Gas dock I drifted and hit something, I think it could of been an under water boulder and the prop broke and mayby a piece let loose and hit the cavitation plate.
As far as " install hydrofoils and forget about damage :grin: " Is that really an option? The smilley face says no? What will that do for me. Why does't the boat have one that large to begin with? Thanks all for the replys John G
 
JohnEGraham said:
Hi All, The front Prop has been replaced. How did it happen? Not shure but one time while I was waiting at a Gas dock I drifted and hit something, I think it could of been an under water boulder and the prop broke and mayby a piece let loose and hit the cavitation plate.
As far as " install hydrofoils and forget about damage :grin: " Is that really an option? The smilley face says no? What will that do for me. Why does't the boat have one that large to begin with? Thanks all for the replys John G
Click to expand...


actually you could install hydrofoils and ":grin:" because of price of repair: less than a $100 compare to few hundreds - remove drive, find somebody who can veld aluminum etc.
damage to your drive is not that bad. it may a take a little longer to put boat in plane, but other than that you shouldn't feel a difference (assuming this not racing boat).
research what hydrofoils can do to you.
 
I have to disagree with the install hydrofoils and cover it up repair. Yes it would fix the damage from a functionality standpoint, meaning the drive would function as it was supposed to.

My concern is that this damage was done by getting something jammed between the prop and the cavitation plate that resulted in a bent prop and broken plate. Covering the damage up will not correct any cracks in the aluminum. Properly welding a piece into the damaged area will not only return the plate to its original geometry, but will also correct any cracking in the damage area.

Long term this is the best solution even if you do not plan to keep the boat. If I was a potential buyer and discovered this condition, the next thing you would hear from me would be; "see ya".


Also be sure to check the insurance. Damage caused by underwater obstruction is covered on a lot of policies


Henry

ps Dave S. is right, time for new zincs!
 
Last edited:
Am I the only one that thinks there is a bunch of corrosion on that drive? :huh:

IMHO - If you don't address it soon, you are going to be missing a bunch of chunks.:smt089
 
Hi. Yes, The Zink Trim tab is deteriorated and needs replacement, looking into it this week.
The other light spot under the Zink location is actually pieces of the Zink. The Rest of the light spots are from missing paint from a crappy paint job with scratched / missing paint, the drive must of been white at some time. I am not sure my first boat and I only bought the boat last year august. Thanks John G.
 
John,
Although we have different engines, I have the same boat & B3 drive. My limited experience says this...
1.) Do not just cover up the cosmetic aspect of the problem. Whatever caused it would at least warrant thorough (top to bottom) inspection by a tech and repair by someone qualified.
2.) I doubt your drive was ever white. You may be seeing some of the primer used when the drive was last painted. Either way after repair the drive should be properly preped & painted and ALL of the zincs replaced.
3.) B3 drives are expensive in my book. If you run the boat this summer without addressing the above points, you may be in for some costly downtime.

Just my opinion but something bad happened. Ignoring it is not an option.
 
Hi, from my original post. I agree. I was always going to get the damaged repaired.
I was just asking with this type of damage, can it be repaired with the drive on or off
and what the cost would be?
Re: The color under the black. It is white. I don't know if it was primer but i guess you could be right. I aways thought that you would use a darker color for primer like a gray if you where going to paint Black. I guess the guy who did the Paint did not know or care and thats why it is chipping off so easily.
Thanks for the info. John G
 
You may want to do a quick search on Bravo 3 Corrosion issues. Like MWPH said I doubt your drive was ever white, sounds like corrosion to me. Do you leave your boat in the water for any length of time?

Looks like Henry beat me to it. (Grin)
 
Henry Boyd said:
I have to disagree with the install hydrofoils and cover it up repair. Yes it would fix the damage from a functionality standpoint, meaning the drive would function as it was supposed to.

My concern is that this damage was done by getting something jammed between the prop and the cavitation plate that resulted in a bent prop and broken plate. Covering the damage up will not correct any cracks in the aluminum. Properly welding a piece into the damaged area will not only return the plate to its original geometry, but will also correct any cracking in the damage area.

Long term this is the best solution even if you do not plan to keep the boat. If I was a potential buyer and discovered this condition, the next thing you would hear from me would be; "see ya".


Also be sure to check the insurance. Damage caused by underwater obstruction is covered on a lot of policies


Henry

ps Dave S. is right, time for new zincs!
Click to expand...

I agree with Henry. The remaining structure will be stressed by the missing chunk. There may also be stress cracks at the edges. Corrosion will eat away at the remaining unit and you will have a much bigger, more expensive problem next year. Don't forget to replace all those anodes. The white film may possibly be antifouling paint. I just had mine done with clear Trilux outdrive paint and my black outdrives now appear milky white underwater. I bet they will have a white film when we pull the boat.
 
Dave S said:
One other thing, it's time to replace your anodes on the outdrive That one on your trim cylinder has outlived its usefullness.
Click to expand...

See if you can get a prop cone anode on there as well. All that stainless steel in close proximity to the aluminum will start eating up your hub.
 
Wow. Thanks ALL for the infomation!
I found the Searay part number for the Zinc trim tab #214460 but could not find that number on any of the Zinc Company Web Sites.
I Sent info to Boatzincs.com
"Hi. I am looking for a pair of Trim Tab Zincs
I have a 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 5.1 w/ Bravo 3
This is the Sea ray Part #214460 ZINC TRIM TAB W/1/4 20 X 3/4 BOLT/NUT.
I got a recommendation regarding your company from the "Clubsearay" board."
I now can add the prop cone anode? on to the list.
plus primer and paint.
I guess I see a visit to my local Marine Max dealer in my near future.
John G.
ADD: Should I use AL. or Zinc? I am Docked for 4 Months in Salt water ( Great South Bay) I see some AL kits at Boatzincs.com. No reply to my E-mail. I guess I will call. JG.
 
Last edited:
JohnEGraham said:
Wow. Thanks ALL for the infomation!
I found the Searay part number for the Zinc trim tab #214460 but could not find that number on any of the Zinc Company Web Sites.
I Sent info to Boatzincs.com
"Hi. I am looking for a pair of Trim Tab Zincs
I have a 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 5.1 w/ Bravo 3
This is the Sea ray Part #214460 ZINC TRIM TAB W/1/4 20 X 3/4 BOLT/NUT.
I got a recommendation regarding your company from the "Clubsearay" board."
I now can add the prop cone anode? on to the list.
plus primer and paint.
I guess I see a visit to my local Marine Max dealer in my near future.
John G.
ADD: Should I use AL. or Zinc? I am Docked for 4 Months in Salt water ( Great South Bay) I see some AL kits at Boatzincs.com. No reply to my E-mail. I guess I will call. JG.
Click to expand...

Probably Aluminum. It is OEM from Mercury on the BIII for salt water. The people at Boatzincs will know. I use Aluminum.
 
Yes. I got the Aluminum kit for the Bravo 2 / 3 ( older Bravo 3 ) plus the Propeller Nut with aluminum Anode.
The trim tabs on my boat are Aluminum so the Anodes are going to be Zinc.
The People at: Boatzinks.com where very helpfull. ( All for $124. )
( Need to check my work for a 3 1/2 inch deep socket 1- 7/16" of course my 1/2inch set sockets are 2 1/2" )
RE: The Paint. Any I dear how much paint / Primer is needed to paint the entire drive & trim tabs. I assume most people use spray cans?
I guess I should get new Mercuriser decals to make it all look good.
Thanks Again. John G.
 
John,

The prop anode may not work for you. On drives that have the prop shaft anode, the prop shaft has been drilled and tapped. The anode attaches with a bolt that is screwed into the end of the shaft.

You can add a shaft anode by either replacing the shaft with a newer one, or drilling and tapping the end of the existing shaft.

Henry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,163
Messages
1,427,599
Members
61,072
Latest member
BoatUtah12
Back
Top