Choosing Cockpit Refrigerator – thoughts, suggestions?

[Alex F]

I’m looking to install cockpit refrigerator on my 320DA and I’m not really sure what model to go with. I found 3 different brands that would fit (based on the door opening or with minor cutting involved):

- Norcold
- Isotherm/Indel Marine
- Tundra (according to my web search it looks like Dometic is also using Tundra units, although on my 240DA it had Dometic label :huh

Can you guys share your thoughts on what it the better unit to go with.

I’m also debating whether do the installation myself or just give it to local MM, not sure if it’s worth the hassle to take the boat there and wait for 2 weeks or so for them to do it. Did anyone install one? Any input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Alex.

 

[SeaHarley]

I did a bigger replacement and went with Cruisers, Isotherm Model 85 and love the extra storage and rack space.
Beware, very expensive!

Sorry, I missed that this was in your cockpit the first time.
Mine is in the Galley.

 

[Vince_nj1]

Alex

Not sure which manufacturer made my cockpit fridge, but here is a picture of the inside. The door allows you to store soda or wine bottles standing up. Not sure why the inside isn't square, it cuts off the back corner. There may be a space issue on the 320. (I took these pictures when I first inspected the boat, the mold is now gone)

As for doing the job yourself.. If you can change 3 impellers in under 2 hours, you should have no problems installing the fridge.

 

[dpmulvey]

Questions. Are you looking for 12/120 volt, straight 12 volt or straight 120 volt? How much do you want to spend?

Isotherm is top shelf and it costs. I don't know if it comes in 120 volt or not. I know they run straight 12 volt and 230 volt. I have heard nothing but good about them.

I have a Norcold and am satisfied with it. Others say they make great anchors and when the Norcold gives out, switch to Tundra. I have heard nothing but good about Tundra and it is cheaper than Isotherm.

If you are going for a straight 120 volt fridge, I would go for a college dorm fridge for less than $100 and pitch it when it craps out. That of course assumes you have a gennie, or don't mind stopping at the grocery store for a pound of dry ice.

Personally, I would go for the Tundra 12/120 and I would look at an RV supply place before I looked at a Marine supply place. There is usually a substantial cost difference.

Ironically, the Norcold and Tundra are both Dometic products.

Good luck.

 

[Asureyez]

My personal take is to go with the unit that will fit the best, trim out the best and has the best warrnatee.

 

[Alex F]

Questions. Are you looking for 12/120 volt, straight 12 volt or straight 120 volt? How much do you want to spend?

I'm looking to have it run just like my cabin fridge (dual voltage 120v/12v). I was looking at wiring diagram for Tundra and looks like it's simple. There are connections for 120v and 12v, so I assume the power supply module is smart enough to determine the source of power and switches automatically, I hope :smt001. So, my basic goal is to have the unit run from shore power when I'm in slip or run my genny and then run off the batteries when there's no 120v available.

I understand that I have to spend some where around $600-750 for the unit alone (admiral wants stainless steal, so it's $100 extra for Norcold). Installation could be around $400 give or take.

As for installation, even though $400 is not a big chunk of money, I'm just not sure if MM will do a nice job. On the other hand, I'm thinking that they may know better on how to run the wires to the pannel/breaker (I assume new breaker has to be installed). So, this is why I'm asking questions.

 

[Alex F]

Alex

Not sure which manufacturer made my cockpit fridge, but here is a picture of the inside. The door allows you to store soda or wine bottles standing up. Not sure why the inside isn't square, it cuts off the back corner. There may be a space issue on the 320.

Vince,
This looks like the Norcold DE0040, I think similar unit is in the cabin. The inside is made this way to allow some room for the compressor. I'm guessing this is comon with compact units.

 

[Vince_nj1]

I understand that I have to spend some where around $600-750 for the unit alone (admiral wants stainless steal, so it's $100 extra for Norcold).

Alex.. I am planning on changing the pannel on my fridge from black to stainless. I bought a sheet of stainless from Lowes yesterday for $37.78. I will have to cut it to match the existing one. I haven't taken the door apart yet to see what I am dealing with, but some one on this forum changed their door panels and it looked great. I will let you know how I make out. I plan on starting the project sometime next week.

Broan®
30-Inch Stainless Steel Backsplash


Item #: 53093 Model: SP3004$37.78

 

[Vince_nj1]

Vince,
This looks like the Norcold DE0040, I think similar unit is in the cabin. The inside is made this way to allow some room for the compressor. I'm guessing this is comon with compact units.

Alex

The unit in the cabin is bigger.. They are different sizes.

 

[sbw1]

I'm a Isotherm fan because they run on 12 volts and many have cold plates that hold the cold. The cold plates are recharged any time you are running the engines or genny. They use very little battery power because of this technology, and are very good for anchoring out without running the genny unless you need air conditioning. They are also very quiet. You can not hear them run. A small light comes on when your battery is being used just to let you know what is going on.

 

[Alex F]

Alex.. I am planning on changing the pannel on my fridge from black to stainless. I bought a sheet of stainless from Lowes yesterday for $37.78.

Vince,

Thanks for the tip. I've heard about inserts but when I searched the web I found it for higher price, so I figured that If the whole unit is ony $100 more it wasn't worth it. Boatersworld has the SS unit for $600, that pretty good if they don't charge me anything for special order (truck delivery $90).

I thought the cabin unit was a little bigger but I wasn't sure. Then, it might be DE0051 model.

 

[Vince_nj1]

Alex.. Per Sea Ray Parts manual the cabin fridge is 2.7 CF and the cockpit fridge is 1.7​

1747061 REFRIGERATOR, 1.7 CU FT 12VDC/110AC
1658368 REFRIGERATOR, 2.7 CF​

 

[J Levine]

Alex,

The wiring should not be that difficult. I have a factory cockpit fridge and if I am not mistaken I think the AC outlet that it plugs into is tied into the other AC outlet on the boat and not the dedicated AC outlet for the galley fridge. On the DC side my cockpit fridge has a dedicated breaker which is labled "Accessory". If you have an open slot on your DC panel you could get the breaker from Sea Ray and complete the wiring from there. I would tie the 120V AC outlet that you will need to add either into an existing AC outlet in the cockpit OR to the dedicated AC outlet you probably have from you galley fridge.

 

[barryg]

Alex,
Mine came with the Norcold both in the cockpit and in the galley below, and I have bought two pieces of stainless from my local steel fabricator cut to size for about $20.00 total. Now the trick is figuring out how to remove the door so I can slide the panel in..

Barry

 

[fc3]

Hi Alex.

Just Ducky came from Sea Ray with an ice maker, which I thought would be much less useful than a refrigerator, so I had the dealer swap it. They weren't Marine Max back then, but the dealer did a good job. They did have to cut the opening a little big larger, but they did OK with that. Sea Ray had already pre-wired the space with both 12VDC and and outlet for 120VAC. The outlet is on the same refrigerator circuit as the galley unit. Overall, it was a good decisions. Both units are Norcolds and I've not had a problem with either.

Best regards,
Frank

 

[dpmulvey]

I'm looking to have it run just like my cabin fridge (dual voltage 120v/12v). I was looking at wiring diagram for Tundra and looks like it's simple. There are connections for 120v and 12v, so I assume the power supply module is smart enough to determine the source of power and switches automatically, I hope :smt001. So, my basic goal is to have the unit run from shore power when I'm in slip or run my genny and then run off the batteries when there's no 120v available.

I understand that I have to spend some where around $600-750 for the unit alone (admiral wants stainless steal, so it's $100 extra for Norcold). Installation could be around $400 give or take.

As for installation, even though $400 is not a big chunk of money, I'm just not sure if MM will do a nice job. On the other hand, I'm thinking that they may know better on how to run the wires to the pannel/breaker (I assume new breaker has to be installed). So, this is why I'm asking questions.

I don't know how yours would be wired. My switch is manual. and labeled on the panels. If on the hook, I have to turn on the 12V breaker for the fridge to work. If on shore power I have to turn OFF the 12V breaker to run on shore power. Strange, but it works. Then again, we are talking 10 year old technology.

 

[Alex F]

The locker where the fridge would be has 120v outlet, so the AC side shouldn't be an issue. I'm looking at my manual now and it shows "Cockpit Refrigirator" breaker on the Main DC Distribution Panel in the engine room. The Main AC Panel has breaker Outlets/Refrigerator in the cabin. This looks like all outlets and cabin fridge are on the same line. So, if I'll tap the cockpit fridge onto the same line I wander if this is ok?

I guess, the only other outstsnding question is do I just run the 12v side wires from the fridge to the DC panel in the engine room?

I'm pretty comfortable with electrical work, but I had never opened a DC panel on the boat (neither 240 or 320). I'm sure it's not a big deal, but I'd like to make sure to do everything the right way.

 

[Alex F]

I don't know how yours would be wired. My switch is manual. and labeled on the panels. If on the hook, I have to turn on the 12V breaker for the fridge to work. If on shore power I have to turn OFF the 12V breaker to run on shore power. Strange, but it works. Then again, we are talking 10 year old technology.

I'm pretty sure that it'll be switched automatically. Even my 2001 240DA had the automatic switch from AC to DC. On my 320 I also don't touch the fridge swithes, it also switches automatically. I would think that the technology is here for some time where power supply modules are smart enough to handle this.

Alex,
Mine came with the Norcold both in the cockpit and in the galley below, and I have bought two pieces of stainless from my local steel fabricator cut to size for about $20.00 total. Now the trick is figuring out how to remove the door so I can slide the panel in.
Barry

Barry,
I've heard that the only way to remove the door is by pulling the unit out, b/c there's no room to get to the bottom screwses. In my case it shouldn't be an issue since the unit will be in hand (if I get non SS and will get the panel separatelly).

I was doing more web searches and the SS units are now almost the same price or the difference is still not worth messing with the panel replacement.

Hi Alex.
Just Ducky came from Sea Ray with an ice maker, which I thought would be much less useful than a refrigerator, so I had the dealer swap it. They weren't Marine Max back then, but the dealer did a good job. They did have to cut the opening a little big larger, but they did OK with that. Sea Ray had already pre-wired the space with both 12VDC and and outlet for 120VAC. The outlet is on the same refrigerator circuit as the galley unit. Overall, it was a good decisions.

Frank,
The biggest thing that kills me dealing with MarineMax is the RESPONSE TIME. If what they claim about slow boating business is true, then they should respond to my requests right away, if they want my business.

The more frustraiting part is that I wrote an email to Sea Ray asking for model numbers for cockpit tv mounts (there're about 3 different types) and it's been almost a week with no response. But, I guess it's a different subject altogether.

 

[Robski97]

Guys if your installing a frig PLEASE build a small shelf in the back for the frig to sit on. ull thank me ...

Rob

 

[Alex F]

Thanks for the tip Rob,
I was actually wondering how does the back of the fridge just hangs there creating pressure for those handfull of small screwses around the trim. I'm guessing that with time, they just would loosen up. I was thinking that one of the options is to extand the back legs, just like they have them on washers and dryers to adjust and level the unit. When I get the unit I'll have better idea what my options are. It would be nice if there's something included in the package.